Toggle switch for electric fuel pump?

[Hoods69BadBowTie]

Hey so on my '79 I went with an electronic fuel pump because I kept having issues with my mechanical. Now it works just fine but my question is I have it wired to come on when the keys on. With doing new wiring and putting a stereo in I have had to turn the key to on a few times to check things and just let the pump run briefly. Is this setup ok or should I run a toggle switch for power to the fuel pump. Any pros or cons or input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

[lazypineapple]

I wouldn't sit around with my Fuelpump running.
While listening to radio.
Kinda dangerous
Toggle switch is good idea.
And if you hide it. It works as anti theft too.
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[406 Q-ship]

You could hook it too a hobb switch that only allows the fuel pump to run when the engine has oil pressure. It has a two fold benefit, one the pump will not run with just key in the run position (why don't you have the stereo wired to the Accessory side of the fuses like it is supposed to be?), two the fuel pump will cut off if the engine were ever to lose oil pressure saving it from catastrophic failure.

[Hoods69BadBowTie]

I like the hobb switch idea that's cool. I am not listening to the radio I just hooked it up to make sure it worked. I was fixing a fuseable link and my dash lights and rewiring a couple things this week and had to turn the key on to make sure it worked properly. I just didn't like the idea of the pump being on with the key when I was doing the wiring work that's what made me ask about toggle switches lol.

[bigblock73]

I personally woul replace the faulty mech fuel pump over running an electric pump...less hassle and more reliable IMO.

[Restrorob]

Originally Posted by bigblock73

I personally woul replace the faulty mech fuel pump over running an electric pump...less hassle and more reliable IMO.

Couldn't agree with Jeff more !!!

I've been stuck on the roadside 3 times from sorry frame mounted pumps (different brands), If my 502 had mechanical pump provisions that's what would have went on the first time. I now keep a spare in the glovebox just because there unreliable as hell....

[motornut]

i put 2 switchs in one the dash,and one under the dash,ran it in the loom to the back.
i wouldn't run one without it.
say you crash,can only move a bit in your seat,smell gas,
can't reach the key and the engine is still running.....
i'd wana be able to turn it off or my passenger can
the second switch is hidden for anti theft......may start.....and just die
crank, crank,crank,crank,crank,crank,thud(thats my bat lol)

[77c10]

My fuel pump is wired to a rocker switch on my dash next to my headlight switch. I would not run an electric fuel pump without some sort of switch in my opinion.

[Hoods69BadBowTie]

Cool sounds good I already got a toggle switch hidden up underneath the dash I will use for just this. Yea I didn't want to go with an electric pump. But after trying 2 brand new mechanicals with no luck and trying to mess with the rod I just gave up on it! The trucks just my mud truck and bashing truck so it aint going to be going on any long road trips just up in the mountains is all.

[billnorman]

You COULD put a switch in series with your ignition switch. Leave it ON all the time except where you feel the truck might be tampered with or you want to have the ignition ON with the motor OFF. I have had my electric hooked up to the ON side of my ignition switch a couple of years no problems. With a crate vortech engine there was no boss for a fuel pump for my 4 barrel carb.

[jimbonice]

The oil pressure switch is typically how the factory does it, as well as an inertia switch which kills the fuel on large impacts or roll overs. When I used to race Jeeps, on electric fuel pumped carbed engines you quickly discovered that when you rolled one, and were upside down, having gas pour out the carb on to your body was a sucky idea. The only reason electric was used was to keep up with two 660 center squirters at 7000 rpm.

On fuel injection engines not quite so bad, as they will continue to run upside down, at least until the sump drains from oil and they seize, or the oil pressure\inertia switch shuts the fuel pump off.

I would stick with the mechanical pump if it was possible, though. Cheap & reliable are two great qualities to posses in car parts.

[76stepsidechevy]

The oil pressure switch works well until the truck sits for more than a day and then your cranking and cranking and cranking until you get enough pressure to get the pump to prime. You almost need a momentary prime switch if it isn't something your going to drive everyday.

[smitty62]

FWIW---electric pump PLUS mechanical works very well if your truck has been setting for any length of time and the carburetor leaks down as some tend to do---saves starter/battery from having to grind long enough to refill--just switch electric on for 30 seconds. Besides---all that grinding to start your truck is embarrassing!

[michael bustamante]

i ran the mechanical and the electric pump in sync in my 84 blazer. when the mechanical pump would vapor lock, i would flip the toggle and run the mechanical. worked like a charm

[Bigstevex4]

Too answer your ? no it dosn,t hurt any thing if you have it on intermittently checking some thing out.

[Tom]

I've always run a toggle switched hidden somewhere. Ran frame mounted electric pumps [carter and holley] for years without issues as well.

[kalbert]

The pump should be on a relay and the relay should be energized when the key is in the crank position, or the key is in the run position and there is oil pressure. Having the relay turn the pump on when the key is in the crank position ensures the fuel system is priming when you're cranking. Having the relay turn the pump on when they key is in the run position and there is oil pressure ensures that the pump won't run if the motor isn't.

[homemade87]

Wire it like Kalbert says is the correct way to do it .

Also I am not a big fan of being in a wreck and unconscious and the motor not running but the fuel pump still running . In a front end collision most likley you are going to damage the fuel system . Good chance for a fire while unconscious . Not my preferred way to go . That switch may as well be a million miles away .

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by kalbert

The pump should be on a relay and the relay should be energized when the key is in the crank position, or the key is in the run position and there is oil pressure. Having the relay turn the pump on when the key is in the crank position ensures the fuel system is priming when you're cranking. Having the relay turn the pump on when they key is in the run position and there is oil pressure ensures that the pump won't run if the motor isn't.

We have a winner! If your going to run a toggle switch, please run it off of a relay.

[willem445]

Originally Posted by Hoods69BadBowTie

Cool sounds good I already got a toggle switch hidden up underneath the dash I will use for just this. Yea I didn't want to go with an electric pump. But after trying 2 brand new mechanicals with no luck and trying to mess with the rod I just gave up on it! The trucks just my mud truck and bashing truck so it aint going to be going on any long road trips just up in the mountains is all.

That rod is a pain to deal with when installing a new mech pump. That being said Ive had zero issues with mine so far.

[85gmcguy]

OK, not to beat the subject to death but I run my electric fuel pump (Holley Red) with a relay, through an oil pressure shut-off switch, and use a momentary-on push button type switch for manual over-ride and testing purpuses. Manual over-ride makes it easier to get fuel to the carb after it's been setting for a while.

[homemade87]

Originally Posted by 85gmcguy

OK, not to beat the subject to death but I run my electric fuel pump (Holley Red) with a relay, through an oil pressure shut-off switch, and use a momentary-on push button type switch for manual over-ride and testing purpuses. Manual over-ride makes it easier to get fuel to the carb after it's been setting for a while.

This will work great . You can run a wire from the start position of the key so the carb will be filling when you are starting the engine if you wanted . This makes it so you dont have to think about the switch . Long periods from sitting the switch will work good to filling the carb.

[mendoAu]

Originally Posted by smitty62

FWIW---electric pump PLUS mechanical works very well if your truck has been setting for any length of time and the carburetor leaks down as some tend to do---saves starter/battery from having to grind long enough to refill--just switch electric on for 30 seconds. Besides---all that grinding to start your truck is embarrassing!

First...Hi there! First post here. Checking out some possible answers for a friends '71 problems and being a Dodge kinda guy thought I'd search this site. My buddy acquired this truck not to long ago and is now getting it road worthy. It's had some previous things done to it like a swapped engine etc. Couple days ago he had the problem of driving thirty miles, went into store, no start. Borrowed an electric fuel pump and installed it in-line and got home. Today I noticed that it had no hoses from the charcoal cannister....hummmm. Thanks for all the info in this thread. Pondering what to suggest to him.
By the way my 87 Dodge sits for long periods of time and solved the "crank til it's dead" fuel problem by just installing one of these valves (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1915585...&ul_noapp=true) in-line close after the fuel pump. No more slow drainage of the fuel.
Once again thanks for the info.

[Marshy]

Originally Posted by 85gmcguy

OK, not to beat the subject to death but I run my electric fuel pump (Holley Red) with a relay, through an oil pressure shut-off switch, and use a momentary-on push button type switch for manual over-ride and testing purpuses. Manual over-ride makes it easier to get fuel to the carb after it's been setting for a while.

This is exactly how I installed mine. I used an Edelbrock electric fuel pump relay kit and a Holey Mighty Mite fuel pump. Surfed the interwebbs for an oil psress switch and installed it right above the oil filter. According to the oil switch manufacture, it closes at about 7 psi so it turns on just cranking the motor over. I use a push button for the manual override feature and wired it in parallel to the oil switch.

[Marshy]

Originally Posted by mendoAu

First...Hi there! First post here. Checking out some possible answers for a friends '71 problems and being a Dodge kinda guy thought I'd search this site. My buddy acquired this truck not to long ago and is now getting it road worthy. It's had some previous things done to it like a swapped engine etc. Couple days ago he had the problem of driving thirty miles, went into store, no start. Borrowed an electric fuel pump and installed it in-line and got home. Today I noticed that it had no hoses from the charcoal cannister....hummmm. Thanks for all the info in this thread. Pondering what to suggest to him.
By the way my 87 Dodge sits for long periods of time and solved the "crank til it's dead" fuel problem by just installing one of these valves (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1915585...&ul_noapp=true) in-line close after the fuel pump. No more slow drainage of the fuel.
Once again thanks for the info.

Welcome! Sounds like the emissions have been removed from your buddies truck. No big deal, lots of people have removed their evap canisters and other smog junk from their trucks without any issues. Its not likely the cause of your friends issue. Sounds like you already figured out it needs a fuel pump...