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09-09-2011, 03:42 PM | #1 |
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Location: Netherlands, The Hague
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rear main seal - one or two piece?
guys.
can anybody tell me if my Burb has a one or two piece rear main seal? I have SB350 in my 1986 K20 Suburban. and I need to replace it, because it is leaking oil!
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My dreamride / project:1977 GMC C15 Suburban In storage: Monster - 1974 GMC Suburban 25hundred Sold : Chevrolet Suburban K20 Silverado 1986 Guide: real HID projectors for 4x6 headlights link: DIY LED TAILLIGHTS |
09-09-2011, 03:45 PM | #2 | |
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Re: rear main seal - one or two piece?
neder mind
Quote:
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My dreamride / project:1977 GMC C15 Suburban In storage: Monster - 1974 GMC Suburban 25hundred Sold : Chevrolet Suburban K20 Silverado 1986 Guide: real HID projectors for 4x6 headlights link: DIY LED TAILLIGHTS |
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09-10-2011, 02:41 PM | #3 |
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Re: rear main seal - one or two piece?
he guys.
still got another question. How hard is it to replace a one-piece rear main seal?
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My dreamride / project:1977 GMC C15 Suburban In storage: Monster - 1974 GMC Suburban 25hundred Sold : Chevrolet Suburban K20 Silverado 1986 Guide: real HID projectors for 4x6 headlights link: DIY LED TAILLIGHTS |
09-11-2011, 08:15 AM | #4 |
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Re: rear main seal - one or two piece?
Unbolt the bellhousing/tranny and slide it back, unbolt the flexplate/flywheel and you're there. I usually remove the fixture that holds the seal so I can swap the seal on a bench, but I understand it can be R&R'd in place.
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09-11-2011, 08:25 AM | #5 | |
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Re: rear main seal - one or two piece?
Quote:
can I move the tranny enough to be able to remove the seal? also, I have a 4WD...so is just sliding back the tranny enough? or do I need to unbolt the transfer case too?
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My dreamride / project:1977 GMC C15 Suburban In storage: Monster - 1974 GMC Suburban 25hundred Sold : Chevrolet Suburban K20 Silverado 1986 Guide: real HID projectors for 4x6 headlights link: DIY LED TAILLIGHTS |
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09-12-2011, 07:19 AM | #6 |
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Location: Lubbock, TX
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Re: rear main seal - one or two piece?
Get some all-thread about a foot long, two pieces. Once you remove the bottom bellhousing bolts, thread these in. Put a pair of nuts, locked together, on the back end. Once you get everything loose, you'll be able to slide the tranny back along the all-threads (with the help of a jack, of course, so that when you're finished, everything will slide straight back in place and you won't have to fight it. As for the transfer case, I'd leave it connected to the tranny, unplug any wiring and take the front drive shaft loose. That's going to be a heavy tranny/case, be sure you have a good jack and that it's balanced and tied in place.
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