Is this 68 worth what he's asking?

[Stricklinator]

I posted this CL find a few days ago, for some reason it's growing on me. I asked the owner for more pics and he posted some. The rust above windshield is scaring me! I love the options though. What do you all think; should I look at it or run away?

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/cto/2595374077.html

Thanks,
Paul
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[71swb4x4]

If it's a CST I believe it should have come with buddy buckets form the factory, someone must have pilfered them.
The rust probably isn't horrible, but it should be fixed sooner rather than later. Since you are in California I would think you could find a better (more solid) truck through. At least one with rust in easier to repair places.

[doubleb's69]

That trucks in California with rust like that. Was it close to the ocean its whole life? That upper windshield area is very repairable but the question is do you want to do it? I think its priced high. I can get trucks back here in Iowa that don't have that kind of rust in that area but the floors are usually pretty bad for around $1000. My GMC only cost me $450 and it ran and drove. but it really depends on the seller as well. Sorry for the long winded response, but I think its price a little high.

[superchevy]

Dang!
You Cali boys do get rust....
SC

[Stricklinator]

My 1969 is depressing me lately; why I'm looking. Mine needs both cab corners, both rockers, all four floor supports, left/rear wheel arch, a big chunk of floor at pass./rear above cab corner, and that's just what I've found so far. It also has almost no options (manual brakes, manual steering, drums all around, no A/C), an iffy 307, and the SM465 (prefer an auto). I know all this could be added, but I can't really work on it where I live, and I don't know how to weld anyway. Of course budget enters in too. Would it be cheaper to buy this 68, if I got him down in price or fix and upgrade my 69? Thanks for the help!

Paul
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[67chevy1series]

to anwser corrctly some faulty anwsers. in 1968 chevy CSTs did not come with buddy buckets, you got a bench, but you could order a CST with buddy buckets. in 1967 CSTs came with buckets and had to be ordered with a bench. and it looks like a very nice optioned truck that would be worth money. also if you parted it out you could get a lot of money, considering the original engine brackets and the big block the trim and the A/C stuff.

[Daves70]

A bigblock truck like that around here would be sold in a minute around here for that kind of money! Heck if it had a 6 it would sell for that here.

[Tuff Gong]

I would say the price is pretty fair. You can always start low and see what you can get it for.

[hugger6933]

That is almost a twin to my 68 GMC. Mine has buddy buckets and speed minder. It is now in the process of becoming a short with 5 lug suspension

[70cst]

with above comments...Make a fair but low offer and see where it goes if...you are interested. Good Luck

[heeroyue2002]

it looks almost like my 68 but im missing the ac stuff in the engine bay.
imo its a bit high for a long bed

[prairewolf]

Originally Posted by Stricklinator

My 1969 is depressing me lately; why I'm looking. Mine needs both cab corners, both rockers, all four floor supports, left/rear wheel arch, a big chunk of floor at pass./rear above cab corner, and that's just what I've found so far. It also has almost no options (manual brakes, manual steering, drums all around, no A/C), an iffy 307, and the SM465 (prefer an auto). I know all this could be added, but I can't really work on it where I live, and I don't know how to weld anyway. Of course budget enters in too. Would it be cheaper to buy this 68, if I got him down in price or fix and upgrade my 69? Thanks for the help!

Paul
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it looks to me like you are only about 2700$ away from getting a new truck that you actually like, ... I say buy the one you like, sell the one you don't. ... you could fix or get the rust fixed above windshield..... it is easier to follow through on getting things done on vehicles we actaully like, ... the vehicles we like actually get washed once in a while and misc. repaired ... that is what I have found with my stuff at least.

[rsavage]

I would not consider that C20 a bargain and I wouldn't even consider it with that level of rust in the roof. Unless you are highly skilled in body work, it will cost you a good deal of money to have the cab roof replaced. Looks like there are holes in the bed floor near the front too.

[3/4]

There are better deals in the Salem Or and Portland Or craigslist, It might be worth the drive. I would look around first. Good luck

[special-K]

Where's the seller's description??

If you bought that for asking price and paid someone to swap a good top on there you'd have something like $4,000-$4,500 into a decent well optioned big block CST/20. From where I stand that's worth it. If no one else snatches it right up it will make bargaining a lot easier. Hopefully the header panel/rain lip rust will scare off others. Then,you can approach it like you're about the only one crazy enough to take this thing on and start out at $1,500. What can you do with your '69? Will anyone want that with the rust it has? How much could you get? You could cut that top of for the donor and just pay labor to have it swapped onto the '68. Then,you could part out the rest and recoup a chunk of your expense. In the end you will have a really cool driver,IMO. I know back east that truck would be worth the money and effort.

[71sierragrande]

It all depends on what u plan to do with it. I considered it for the big block to do a rebuild and replant. If you intend to use the truck as is, I'd say its a few hundred too high. But of course he listed it at well above what he will take, anyone knows that. I bet u can get it for around 2G.

[sodak68]

That is a very common problem on these camper trucks they usually have a cherry box but allot of roof rust both inside and out. The camper traps water and eats through the drip rails and rust all the way down to the kick panels. Whoever said that that's any easy fix I would love to see a thread on fixing it because my dads 68 custom from socal has the same problem and I was so impressed with the rest of the truck that I failed to realize how bad the roof was rusted. Kinda funny this is almost a twin to his and I paid about the same price 4 years ago.

[Livrat]

IMHO its way too much money with the rust issues it has, I would hold out for one thats nicer in the rust dept. I would keep looking.

Here is an example of one from our area that appears to be a real good buy, (its on the desert side of Washington)

http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/2595260297.html

[Stricklinator]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I'm still torn though, it has everything I want including working a/c (except the roof rust of course) I may look at it if he gets back to me with SPID picture and info on cab floor rust. I'm not looking for a show truck; just a nice driver/hauler and something to tinker with. The thing with mine is the safety issue with rusted pass floor, this makes the seatbelt mount very weak and unsafe. Is there any way to "kill" that windshield rust and waterproof it as a temporary measure? How common is a truck optioned like this with the big block etc.?

Thanks again,
Paul
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[lil hoodlum]

I happen to like the looks of this truck too! Looks to be original. Seems to have everything its supposed to. Radio, AC, big block, side trim.

I would offer less than the $2700. Take a look at it first before you counter bid on it.

Yes, the driprail/ header panel does look scary. That will deter alot of buyers. Yes it can be fixed. Probably not on the cheap though. I bought mine for $700 in driving condition in 1997 with the header panel completely rusted through and gapping in some areas. I bought a roller with no motor and trans for $300 and swapped the cabs. Just me an a buddy swapped it too! It only took me 2 days to do the swap and have everything put back together and driving.

I didn't have a shop or air/power tools neither.

You can do it too!

good luck in your choice!

Keith

[prairewolf]

did you buy it yet? .... jk. ..actually I am not kidding but I think I am suppose to say that ..........thinking for myself if it was me, .... it would be more enjoyable to sit in that 68 in my driveway, with the engine idling and fresh armor-all on the tires, thinking through how to arrest the roof rust for awhile till I could get it fixed properly. ...than it would be to sit in the 69 with a grocery list of rust issues and not even knowing where to start.

but while I was getting my mind around the roof rust and how to fix or arrest it I would get some tires and wheels that I actually liked.....

it is easy for me to spend your money from here so I won't. .... but I will say this,... if the vehicle we are putting our time,effort and money into off and on is not enjoyable to work on, ... it does not really matter if it was 800$, 1800$ or 98$. ........and you would definately not be the first person to change your mind on a 69 project and go in a different direction with a 68.

I wish you well in whatever you do, ... there is suppose to be enjoyment in these old trucks......... and sorry for the long post reply, ... but it is still amazing to me that you asked us up front what we thought, ... I did not ask when I bought mine.., I just freaked out when I saw the right vehicle, gave the guy 100$ to hold it. bought it with in the next few days, drove it home and got yelled at.

coffee is good and it is a beautiful morning outside.

life is good,kent

[special-K]

I looked a truck yesterday and the top rust was the same. Looked worse on the inside than outside. The roof/drip rail is only surface rusted. The one I looked at wasn't even rusty on the outside.It had been repainted and was basically lacking the seam sealer. You can clean up and treat that surface rust,then prime,seam seal,and put some white Rustoleum on it. Then,the source is stopped and what you see inside is just cosmetic. It's just the second layer and can be dealt with whenever. The only issue would be if condensation continued to help keep the rust between active. My concern would be where the two panels are joined at the top of the windshield under the gasket. You could drench it with rust inhibitor through the rust holes. You "could" cut out even more of that panel to really open it up "and" be cutting back to better metal. Completely replacing the header panel is the best repair. But,it could be patched in and last a good while. You could always do something hoaky to cover it over,to. Heck,even bondoing over the holes,once treated,would get you by a while without a lot of work and you can deal with fixing it right if the truck pans out for you in the long run.
I'd cry about that rust being a problem on an otherwise 1/2 decent old work truck with some pretty cool options. It may not look that bad but it's really a problem he should have dealt with when he saw the sealer cracked year ago. Point out that even if you parted it out you wouldn't get $2,700 out of it after all that work. Tell him he's about a grand high and if he's willing to deal go no more that $2,000
BTW,there are those who appreciate those Jackman wheels in the vintage off road community.

[budnikguy]

Way too high for what it is.......spend a little more time looking! I have found much better condition trucks for considerable less $$ here in SoCal!

[m6z]

I'd think it would be a $2k truck as it sits. Maybe a little more if it was a 1/2 ton. Some of you guys make it sould like you should be able to find loaded up big block trucks all day for $1k, but I guess I'm biased since I'm trying to sell a truck similar to that one and haven't got a single offer.

[treveiger]

Seems high to me for California but maybe I'm crazy
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