how bout some pics of custom cold air setups

[RUSHNBOBO]

here's mine to start it off, the ends of the hoses are out of view....they run to a 4" mount bolted to lower corners of the rad support and draws air only from outside the engine compartment.

[Andy4639]

I did mine several years ago.

Over view:








Inlet hole for the air.

[68 short step]

[Andy4639]

68 short step,
hope you never have to pull that radiator! Nice metal work by the way. I like the clean look.

[C20-67_N_MO]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

68 short step,
hope you never have to pull that radiator! Nice metal work by the way. I like the clean look.

x2

That's just sick!

Everyone: good job!

[AirSpeed]

Nice work guys! Does the cold air intake make a noticeable difference, can you actually feel the difference! They all look very nice!
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Posted via Mobile Device

[RUSHNBOBO]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

Looks good ...did you have to use bubble connectors of some sort on the ends, to prevent engine movement from cracking the tubing?

I am thinking doing a full fabricated polished aluminum setup and eliminate the flex tube. Spectre will weld and re-polish the tubing, after you cut, fit and mark all the pieces.

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

Nice work guys! Does the cold air intake make a noticeable difference, can you actually feel the difference! They all look very nice!

You get approx 1% increase in HP for every 10 degrees you lower the intake air temp.

So just for an example, figure a under-hood temp of 180 degrees, and the ambient temp outside the engine compartment of 90 degrees. You would have a 90 degree reduction in intake temp.

This example would give you approx 9% increase in HP, note there are many complicated variables which can vary this number involving calculating the exact air density. But it gives a good idea of the free horsepower to be had from a engine drawing air from outside the engine compartment vs. one which draws from directly behind the radiator

Can you feel the gain?.......
in ideal conditions it could be as much as 25-30 HP...... and vs. a non cold air system ....and that's definitely enough to "feel".

[Andy4639]

What I have never understood is a cold air setup that the tube ends right in front of the motor and it's sucking the same hot air it did before. I just don't understand it.

I talked with a guy at a show who had a beatiful 68 camaro and his cold air ran down under the motor and stoped. No scoop nothing just a tube. I asked why he did it this way and he said it was the only way it would pull air in. Cold air isn't pulled in it's suppose to be forced in when you go down the road. That's why you want it to have an opening on the front end of the vehicle to have the free flowing air to be forced into it. I have the sheet metal covers between the grille and the rad support to help with this also.
On a nice cool day you can feel a differance in the way the motor reacts.

[Dunenutt]

Dont have a pic of it with the hose on. I guess it's a cowl induction/cold air setup. I don't know how well it works yet.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Dunenutt

Dont have a pic of it with the hose on. I guess it's a cowl induction/cold air setup. I don't know how well it works yet.

You going to have a NASCAR type setup. Keep us posted on it looks like a cool idea.
Did you block off the vents inside to force the air back out the tube?

[RUSHNBOBO]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

[B][COLOR="Red"]What I have never understood is a cold air setup that the tube ends right in front of the motor and it's sucking the same hot air it did before. I just don't understand it.

I talked with a guy at a show who had a beatiful 68 camaro and his cold air ran down under the motor and stoped. No scoop nothing just a tube. I asked why he did it this way and he said it was the only way it would pull air in.

Iv'e seen a bunch done this way....and it's definitively not the optimum setup. Ideally the air should come from "outside" the engine compartment. Some will run them down in the corners near the bottom of the rad support, where they terminate and draw air from there, is this better than an open element setup? ...Sure any time your not pulling air from directly behind radiator it's cooler, but how much?

Iv'e open my hood after running up to full temp and put my hand both inside the rad support and outside in the same place, down near the bottom. The temperature difference is substantial, probably 40-50 degrees, this is horsepower lost maybe 4-5 percent, vs. isolating the intake completely outside the engine compartment.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by RUSHNBOBO

Looks good ...did you have to use bubble connectors of some sort on the ends, to prevent engine movement from cracking the tubing?

I am thinking doing a full fabricated polished aluminum setup and eliminate the flex tube. Spectre will weld and re-polish the tubing, after you cut, fit and mark all the pieces.


.

do you have pic, or link to these bubble connectors you refer to....I planned on making mine like yours, but I would like to pull the air from the cowl area

[RUSHNBOBO]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

do you have pic, or link to these bubble connectors you refer to....I planned on making mine like yours, but I would like to pull the air from the cowl area

it's more commonly called a "hump hose"coupler...it give's the system the flex you need when using solid tubing

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by RUSHNBOBO

Iv'e seen a bunch done this way....and it's definitively not the optimum setup. Ideally your right, the air should come from "outside" the engine compartment. Some will run them down in the corners near the bottom of the rad support, is this better than an open element setup? ...Sure any time your not pulling air from directly behind radiator it's cooler, but how much?

Iv'e open my hood after running up to full temp and put my hand both inside the rad support and outside in the same place, down near the bottom. The temperature difference is substantial, probably 40-50 degrees, this is horsepower lost maybe 4-5 percent, vs. isolating the intake completely outside the engine compartment.

Yes it's not the best but most of them are that way. That's why I did mine the way I did it. I know the plastic hose isn't the greatest insulator but with it being semi forced through I figured the air isn't loosing that much temperature differance.

[Dunenutt]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

You going to have a NASCAR type setup. Keep us posted on it looks like a cool idea.
Did you block off the vents inside to force the air back out the tube?

I have the vintage air kit inside, and the blower housing blocks that vent. I left the vent flap in, but sealed it shut. Judging from the past, there should be more than enough flow, even with the driver side vent open.

[Andy4639]

Cool!
I like it.

[67chevemall]

Originally Posted by Dunenutt

Dont have a pic of it with the hose on. I guess it's a cowl induction/cold air setup. I don't know how well it works yet.

Very creative! kudos!

[RUSHNBOBO]

Here's a great read about "Ram air intake myths" ......not to be confused with "cold air intakes"

The Ram Air Myth by Dave Rodabaugh

http://www.paladinmicro.com/documents/RamAirMyth.pdf

[RUSHNBOBO]

Originally Posted by Dunenutt

Dont have a pic of it with the hose on. I guess it's a cowl induction/cold air setup. I don't know how well it works yet.

it should work fine, as the cowl area is and isolated from the engine compartment, the temp drop there would be the same as anywhere else.

[Dunenutt]

Originally Posted by RUSHNBOBO

Here's a great read about "Ram air intake myths" ......not to be confused with "cold air intakes"

The Ram Air Myth by Dave Rodabaugh

http://www.paladinmicro.com/documents/RamAirMyth.pdf

That made my brain hurt! But very informative.