'50 one ton panel on modern 4x4 frame?

[overloaded]

I have a 50 GMC panel, one ton long wheelbase and would love to update it to be usable as a hauler/work truck, but keep it heavy duty.

Have found threads with narrowed one ton IFS from a 1 ton frame, s10 swaps, etc, but to be worthwhile I'd like to have 4wd also. (not jacked up in the air...I just don't like getting stuck, and I end up in odd places)

Anyone ever tried mating one of these big boys to a 3/4 or one ton SRW frame?

Another bonus would be running a 292 or 250 six cylinder, to keep it stock appearing under the hood.

[Dan Bowles]

Nice. I've got a '49.

What's SRW? There are some trucks here on 4x4 S10 frames.

[overloaded]

Single Rear Wheel

I think S10 will be way too weak for a one ton. My dilemma is I want 4wd and towing capability, without going too modern. But track width is always a problem...

Basically, my goal would be a Napco one ton panel, if they'd made them in '50

[Dan Bowles]

Check out TooMany2Count. He has Large Marge that he put an S10 frame under initially.(You can find it on google, but it was 2wd). He's gone back to a stocker this year but the S10 strength really isn't an issue when you compare the frames to any other truck. The front is boxed all the way under the cab. Of course, you are talking about a max of about 123" wheel base and you have 137" on your truck.

Since the set up is just leaf spring, there shouldn't be any major issue putting a live axle in the front and making your own NAPCO. The ZR2 I've heard is the same guts as a Z71 full size but not quite as wide. Use your frame if you are worried about strength and box the front. A 250 is still a 250. A 10 bolt is a 10 bolt. What are you going to lose from towing capacity?

[overloaded]

The frame wouldn't be the weak point, but the goal would be one 3/4 to 1 ton suspension, with corresponding 16" tires (like a 235-85-16 or so) and good brakes - I've been known to buy the oddest stuff on a whim, so the more useful for towing/hauling the better.

There was a conversion on another forum where the owner used the stock 49 frame modified to accept a late 70's corporate 4wd axle up front. Fitting the steering box was the worst issue, as the frame angles, etc are wrong between the two.

[Dan Bowles]

I had a 70s suspension in my 1 ton to start with. It was 2wd and I agree, it is a PITA to get it all in place. Width is terrible as well but you can get offset rims to make up for that. Looked 4x4 as a 4x2. A 12 or 14 bolt is going to be pretty wide but still something you can tuck under with the right rims.

If you go with frame boxing plates, the 1/2 ton and 1 ton frames are different so you are best to make your own. I'm in the process of doing that now. If I ever get time to get back to it.

[Dan Bowles]

Do you have any more pictures of that passenger side mirror? I just got one that looks very similar. Bottom of it looks like it is a conduit plug on mine where it would go to the mount. I don't have a mount, though.

[overloaded]

Is that a period correct mirror? Never looked at it closely, but I can shoot a pic next time I'm over at the garage.

Ya know, I'm just in this phase where the older stuff is much more interesting. Was fortunate enough to daily drive a stock Model A Ford to work for awhile when I lived in Dayton, and it really stuck with me. Just the feeling of metal, the sound of gears meshing, the smell of oil and gas...A bare bones chevy truck - even into the 70's - isn't much different really.

Guess I'm becoming eccentric

[Russell Ashley]

"Guess I'm becoming eccentric "

Welcome to the club, LOL. You'll fit right in here.

Can't offer any advice on the swap, just wish you good luck, and keep us posted on the progress.

[Gene Sharp]

I own several trucks including two on later madel frames
A 53 1/2 ton on a blazer frame
I/2 56 on an 80 model frame
also a 58 2 wheel drive on a stock frame

My opinion :

I would track down the measurements for a NAPCO axels
front and rear
Order a pair of axels made to that size with mounting brackets
order some u bolts and you can be setting on you r new axels in no time
Go with a Divorced NP205 gear drive transfer case
this lets you even put a 5 speed behind that 6 for highway cruising
Only thing this really leaves is steering
Look how the box is mounted on older Jeep pickups
go with that mount and Crossover steering
Use a power box
You need the right steering Knuckles for that
You can even go with Dana 6 0 1 ton front axel if you need extra strength
and 14 bolt rear
The later 6 willl pretty much bolt to a crossmember type mount
use a later model v8 bellhousing in back
believe me all this is so much easier that changing frames
Get the stock power steering bracket for the 250 6 cylinder
done this way you end up with a pretty much stock appearing truck that is really tough and dependable
I like the wiring set Speedway has from American Autowire

Gene Sharp

[Dan Bowles]

I can't wait to be able to drive my '47 1 ton to the office. Not looking for comfort or speed, just cool. Eventually, we'll get the '49 1 ton panel on the road as well but it will have IFS and some creature comforts!

[duwem]

53 on a trailblazer SS chassis:

http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicl...s_of_suburban/

[overloaded]

Originally Posted by Gene Sharp

I own several trucks including two on later madel frames
A 53 1/2 ton on a blazer frame
I/2 56 on an 80 model frame
also a 58 2 wheel drive on a stock frame

My opinion :

I would track down the measurements for a NAPCO axels
front and rear
Order a pair of axels made to that size with mounting brackets
order some u bolts and you can be setting on you r new axels in no time
Go with a Divorced NP205 gear drive transfer case
this lets you even put a 5 speed behind that 6 for highway cruising
Only thing this really leaves is steering
Look how the box is mounted on older Jeep pickups
go with that mount and Crossover steering
Use a power box
You need the right steering Knuckles for that
You can even go with Dana 6 0 1 ton front axel if you need extra strength
and 14 bolt rear
The later 6 willl pretty much bolt to a crossmember type mount
use a later model v8 bellhousing in back
believe me all this is so much easier that changing frames
Get the stock power steering bracket for the 250 6 cylinder
done this way you end up with a pretty much stock appearing truck that is really tough and dependable
I like the wiring set Speedway has from American Autowire

Gene Sharp

Gene, that's well though out. A little more work than I had hoped, but the reward is a great performing truck.

Is it feasible to have a 4wd axle narrowed? I'd assume its the same as any other unit...just never considered it before.

[OrrieG]

I was thinking about the narrow axles too, but Gene beat me to it. It would not be that hard, shorten the tube, probably on the long side on the front and cut and respline the axle shaft on that side. Back could be one side or both depending on how the transfer case ended up being mounted side to side. I assume someone is doing it because a lot of the climbing buggies look like they are a lot narrower that stock. I would stick with the stock frame, look at what I did on my build. That keeps the complexity to just making the drive train work and not worrying about remounting the body, wheel base, etc. Ad will be a little more complicated because the frame rails are not parallel in the front, but doable.

[BlueJeep]

It would be easy to narrow some axles, and bolt them up under the existing leaf springs if your goal is to have similar to what you have now, in 4wd. It's the route I would recommend, because you'd have it up and running the quickest and that way you're not making compromises in how things mount. Both the long side and the short side can be narrowed on the front, and the caster can be set wherever you'd like it when it's welded back together. The rear will be easier, as a 14 bolt with the single wheel hubs swapped out for dual wheel hubs will be 63" wide, which is similar to the AD rear. Also, 60's dodges had rear dana 60's that were around 65" wide, and there are other combinations that will get you where you want to be in the back without cutting anything. Then it's a matter of setting pinion angle and welding on spring perches.

Also since you're starting from scratch don't rule out Ford front axles with a diver's side drop. Then you could use 90's model Chevy transmission and transfer case (NP241) and bolt that to the inline 6 or SBC or BBC, whichever you choose.

Edit: now that I think about it some more, run the rear axle you have now and put in some different gears from a 67-72 3rd member. Don't bother swapping it unless you're looking for a more common axle (for future parts availability).

[Dan Bowles]

Yep, that rear axle is a HO72 and you can get 4.10s from up to a 1972 3/4 ton. Easy enough to match in the front and a decent OD trans could help you out with the mileage. Try a 6.5 turbo diesel and a 4LE80 trans/transfer case!

[Gene Sharp]

also another advantage is you are not without your truck
do it in steps and pretty much keep your truck mobile
any of the large 4x4 suppliers or Moser or Curry can supply axels made to any size you want
I would keep my low stock ratio in back an go for the overdrive
with a good 250 six you willl have adequate power and economy
and the truck will appear stock to most people\

I say go for it
do the motor tranny swap first
drive i t around a little
then move foreward


Gene Sharp

[overloaded]

I like how you guys think.

First goal is to get the truck running with the stock GMC six (if it will run LOL) and axle, repair some of the body issues/interior and make it drivable.

Then, gear swap to 4.10's...while accumulating transfer case, front axle, etc for a conversion.

The newer GM stuff is a mystery to me - what's a good 5 speed to run with a divorced transfer case

Is ford the only one who used a stock divorced 205?

[Russell Ashley]

"Is ford the only one who used a stock divorced 205? "

No, actually Ford, GM, Dodge, and probably International all used divorced 205's at some time. They were made by New Process, which was a Chrysler company. I converted my last truck to 4X4 and it actually wasn't that difficult. I had an advantage in that I bought a parts truck that had most of what I needed before I started.

[overloaded]

you're right, sorry for the dumb question. Just did a little homework and saw that. Have had a number of stock 4x4's over the years but never paid attention to transfer cases.

Would have to say the chain drive/married np203 in the 79 dodge was the worst...

For trans I'm leaning towards a 2wd nv4500?

[BlueJeep]

If you're going nv4500 id get a married one....actually id recommend a married transfer caseany way you go because they will be way easier to find and likely cheaper too. The only reason I'd go divorced would be if you wanted to use your existing transmission. Since you're looking at swapping that out there isn't a good reason to go divorced.
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[Dan Bowles]

NV4500 is a good way to go. I've been out of the 4x4 world too long and was a Jeep guy once upon a time but even they had a divorced TC!

[special-K]

How wide are Jeep J20 or J30 axles? I know Wagoneer/Jeepster axles are narrower than GM/Ford/Dodge/IH axles. Another thought would be to run single Budds on 1t Chevy axles. I'd stay with the stock frame. None of those S10 or Trailblazer frames will be anywhere near long enough. People run them under shortbeds.