F-ing Balljoints!!!! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jon_volk · 04-13-2003, 02:39 PM

well i just finished installing a flip kit in the rear and was going to continue the day by installing my spindles and new springs but after 30 min of beating the piss out of the balljoints w/ a pickle fork the damn things still wont break loose...this is with the nut backed off a few threads and the spring tension still on em. Ive never come accross such stubborn ball joints and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions. i dont really wanna be drivin around w/ my ass end hangin down all week!

TIMSPEED · 04-13-2003, 05:13 PM

This is why I HAD my front end done...even if I DID pay $500 for it, I'll say it's worth it!

Ol' Grey · 04-13-2003, 05:29 PM

Please forgive the Crayola-esque diagram.

Hit the red areas of the spindle with a 3lb hammer while putting wedge pressure between the control arm and spindle. Sometimes a good rap to that area of the spindle will be enough to get it apart.

MSL · 04-13-2003, 05:41 PM

Some have even heated up the bottom end of it .

low 84 · 04-13-2003, 06:04 PM

since you are installing new spindle just hit thos guys with all you've got in the red areas in the diagram with a sledge. hope fully that will jar them loose. but keep the nut only backed off a few threads just like you have been doing.

i had one that was stuck so bad thati just took the whole lower control arm off with the spindle attached and i just took the asembly over to myfriends shop. they tried and impact hammer with a fork on it and every thing else they could think off. then they chainded the control arm to the floor and beat the spindle off with a big sledge.

**swervin ervin** · 04-13-2003, 08:14 PM

Here is the best way to get the bottom ball joint loose. This is my procedure.

Remove the bottom bolt from the shock mount at the lower control arm. Use a chain to run through the coil springs to hold them in place until you drop the lower control arm enough to take the pressure off. This will make sure they don't fly out and hit you. These springs have a lot of force so be real careful. Once the chain is in place, put a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise it just a little. Next remove the cotter pin from the top ball joint nut and loosen a few threads. Don't remove the nut all the way yet. Use a ball joint pickle fork to break the top ball joint loose from the spindle. A ball joint pickle fork has a wider area between the forks so it will fit around the ball joint stud. Once the upper ball joint is loose, remove the nut. Now being real careful, lower the floor jack to take the pressure off the coil spring. Once all pressure if off, remove the chain and coil spring. They make a tool to help remove the lower ball joint, but I made my own. I used a long 1/2" bolt and nut, washer. The bolt needs to be threaded all the way up. Stick the open end of the bolt down through the upper ball joint hole in the spindle. Put the flat washer and then the nut onto the bolt. Hold the end of the bolt onto the end of the lower ball joint stud and tighten the nut until it makes contact with the spindle. With the floor jack under the lower control arm to hold it up level, remove the cotter pin from the ball joint nut and loosen the nut a few threads. Don't remove the nut all the way yet. Now tighten the nut on the home made ball joint removal tool and while tightening use a 2 pound hammer to rap on the spindle right beside the ball joint. Keep tightening the nut and rapping the spindle until it breaks loose. Believe me, this will work. I know because this is the way I removed my lower ball joints from the spindle. Once the ball joint breaks loose, remove the ball joint nut and spindle.

Slonaker · 04-13-2003, 08:35 PM

I just changed my springs out again over the weekend. One lower balljoint, which was out just a year ago, just did not want to come out. My neighbor and I took turns beating the cr@p out of the spindle with a 4 pound sledge until it finaly popped out. I actually chipped a couple of small pieces of metal off the spindle around the ball joint!

Good thing I plan to replace them with dropped spindles soon...

Slonaker

Grim Reaper · 04-13-2003, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Ol' Grey
Please forgive the Crayola-esque diagram.

Hit the red areas of the spindle with a 3lb hammer while putting wedge pressure between the control arm and spindle. Sometimes a good rap to that area of the spindle will be enough to get it apart.

That's the same trick I use. I don't even own a "boot destroyer" aka pickle fork. I hate those things. Never took more then a couple good pops with a 2.5 lb sledge even on my abused 75 Jimmy. That is one of the best kept best tricks in the book. It works on about everything including stuck Diff carriers.

jon_volk · 04-14-2003, 07:01 PM

tried EVERYTHING. im sayin screw this, ordering a poly front end kit and payin somone to do this. i think this is the first time ive decided to farm somthing out in 4 years

85 GMC · 04-14-2003, 08:25 PM

this is the sound you heard in my driveway , CAPING , CAPING , CAAAAAPING , CAAAAAAAAPINGGGGGGGGG. there is a sweet spot in those things that you have to find and thry will fall right out.

Nvbowtie · 04-16-2003, 03:36 AM

Last resort ? Smoke wrench !!

04-13-2003, 02:39 PM	#1
jon_volk Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Milford, CT Posts: 242	F-ing Balljoints!!!! well i just finished installing a flip kit in the rear and was going to continue the day by installing my spindles and new springs but after 30 min of beating the piss out of the balljoints w/ a pickle fork the damn things still wont break loose...this is with the nut backed off a few threads and the spring tension still on em. Ive never come accross such stubborn ball joints and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions. i dont really wanna be drivin around w/ my ass end hangin down all week! __________________ 83 Monte Carlo 92 Camaro

04-13-2003, 05:13 PM	#2
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	This is why I HAD my front end done...even if I DID pay $500 for it, I'll say it's worth it! __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

04-13-2003, 05:29 PM	#3
Ol' Grey A work in progress Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Marion, NC Posts: 104	Please forgive the Crayola-esque diagram. Hit the red areas of the spindle with a 3lb hammer while putting wedge pressure between the control arm and spindle. Sometimes a good rap to that area of the spindle will be enough to get it apart. Attached Images __________________ Marc Cook 1986 Chevy Silverado C-10 LWB Gunmetal Grey Metallic 5.0L HO, 700-R4, '73 12-bolt rear Long tube headers, 2.5" dual exhaust dumped before the axle. 1988 GMC Sierra SLE 4WD 5.7L, 700-R4, stock everything 6000LB winch

04-13-2003, 06:04 PM	#5
low 84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,144	since you are installing new spindle just hit thos guys with all you've got in the red areas in the diagram with a sledge. hope fully that will jar them loose. but keep the nut only backed off a few threads just like you have been doing. i had one that was stuck so bad thati just took the whole lower control arm off with the spindle attached and i just took the asembly over to myfriends shop. they tried and impact hammer with a fork on it and every thing else they could think off. then they chainded the control arm to the floor and beat the spindle off with a big sledge. __________________ '51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's

04-13-2003, 08:14 PM	#6
swervin ervin You get what you pay for Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Cherryville, NC Posts: 4,798	Here is the best way to get the bottom ball joint loose. This is my procedure. Remove the bottom bolt from the shock mount at the lower control arm. Use a chain to run through the coil springs to hold them in place until you drop the lower control arm enough to take the pressure off. This will make sure they don't fly out and hit you. These springs have a lot of force so be real careful. Once the chain is in place, put a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise it just a little. Next remove the cotter pin from the top ball joint nut and loosen a few threads. Don't remove the nut all the way yet. Use a ball joint pickle fork to break the top ball joint loose from the spindle. A ball joint pickle fork has a wider area between the forks so it will fit around the ball joint stud. Once the upper ball joint is loose, remove the nut. Now being real careful, lower the floor jack to take the pressure off the coil spring. Once all pressure if off, remove the chain and coil spring. They make a tool to help remove the lower ball joint, but I made my own. I used a long 1/2" bolt and nut, washer. The bolt needs to be threaded all the way up. Stick the open end of the bolt down through the upper ball joint hole in the spindle. Put the flat washer and then the nut onto the bolt. Hold the end of the bolt onto the end of the lower ball joint stud and tighten the nut until it makes contact with the spindle. With the floor jack under the lower control arm to hold it up level, remove the cotter pin from the ball joint nut and loosen the nut a few threads. Don't remove the nut all the way yet. Now tighten the nut on the home made ball joint removal tool and while tightening use a 2 pound hammer to rap on the spindle right beside the ball joint. Keep tightening the nut and rapping the spindle until it breaks loose. Believe me, this will work. I know because this is the way I removed my lower ball joints from the spindle. Once the ball joint breaks loose, remove the ball joint nut and spindle. __________________ Mike 1985 Chevy C-10

04-13-2003, 05:41 PM	#4
MSL Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: So.Oregon Posts: 765	Some have even heated up the bottom end of it .

04-13-2003, 08:35 PM	#7
Slonaker Insert Witty Text Here Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 3,415	I just changed my springs out again over the weekend. One lower balljoint, which was out just a year ago, just did not want to come out. My neighbor and I took turns beating the cr@p out of the spindle with a 4 pound sledge until it finaly popped out. I actually chipped a couple of small pieces of metal off the spindle around the ball joint! Good thing I plan to replace them with dropped spindles soon... Slonaker __________________ '86 Chevy C10 (Sold 04/19/13 ) Stock '01 Silverado

04-14-2003, 07:01 PM	#9
jon_volk Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Milford, CT Posts: 242	tried EVERYTHING. im sayin screw this, ordering a poly front end kit and payin somone to do this. i think this is the first time ive decided to farm somthing out in 4 years __________________ 83 Monte Carlo 92 Camaro

04-14-2003, 08:25 PM	#10
85 GMC Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: michigan Posts: 121	this is the sound you heard in my driveway , CAPING , CAPING , CAAAAAPING , CAAAAAAAAPINGGGGGGGGG. there is a sweet spot in those things that you have to find and thry will fall right out.

04-16-2003, 03:36 AM	#11
Nvbowtie Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Laughlin, Nv. USA Posts: 700	Ol' Smokie !! Last resort ? Smoke wrench !! __________________ www.unlimited2u.com/chevy Bill 1980 Chevy C-10 Silverado 1988 Chevy Blazer Tahoe



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