Is it OK for wheels not to center on the hub?

[Joe Blaze]

I put new rims on my '71 Blazer, and I noticed the rims dont center snug around the hub. Is it OK that the all the weight is carried by the wheel studs? I noticed my jeep wrangler has the same condition. Would it make a difference, and could there be problems with the weight of the car not actually resting on the center space of the rims?





do they make a thin spacer that would take up the space between the rim and the hub?

[truckster]

Your lug nuts should have a beveled edge, which centers the wheel on the lugs. That's not a problem.

[69sixpackbee]

Some wheel are "lugcentric" and others are "hubcentric". The hubcentric types, as implied, rely on the rim fitting snugly on the hub. The lug holes are usually through-bored and clamp the rim snugly. Conversely, the lugcentric versions utilize conical lugnuts that "square" the nut around the periphery of the lug itself.
I guess the "loose" hubcentrics will work as long as the lugnut shoulder fits snugly in the bore of the through hole.

Bud

[jocko]

If the lug nuts are NOT conical, it is not ok - and not safe. I'd make sure your lugs have some means of centering in the holes - it does not look like in the picture that the lugs center in a thru hole of the mags - but if they are conical, then I guess that's something at least.

[schurg]

I gotta comment on this one. looking at the pictures you posted,that obviously isnt going to be safe as it stands. there a few things you can do. 1st call a wheel distributer (tirerack, american tire, etc) and see if they make hubcentric rims for the wheels/vehicle (you will need to know the inner diameter of your wheel bore, the hub diameter they should be able to find. 2nd. make certain the lug nuts are the correct ones for the wheels. there are a few different types of lugs, they are not all created equal! the conal shape of the lugs help carry the load as well as center the wheel on the hub. 3rd. are you 100% sure the wheel bolt pattern is correct? if its off, say, 5mm (if its a drilled for a foreign vehicle) then after tightening the 1st lug nut your wheel will be off center, the rest of the lugs only add stress to the hub. I'm thinking the first scenerio is the best route.

[schurg]

ok, apparantly I dont have 'permission' to edit my post :P

what it is supposed to say is 'see if the tire distributers have hub centric ADAPTERS for your wheel/vehicle' instead of hubcentric rims. srry

[Sicklajoie]

I have F#$d rims on my C/20 and they're lugcentric. You have to make sure you have conical lug nuts and make sure you take your time and snug the lug nuts on slowly so they're even all the way around. Do not tighten one at a time. The rim will center itself if it's done correctly.

[OhOneWS6]

Not all lug centric wheels use conical lug nuts. Many use short, medium or long mag lug nuts. Most OEM wheels are hub centric, most after market wheels are lug centric. All 6 lug wheels are 6 on 5.5 bolt circle. It does not matter foreign or domestic. The reason most after market wheels are lug centric is to allow them to fit on multiple vehicles.

Take one lug nut off and take a picture of the hole in the wheel as well as the lug nut. That will help determine if you have the correct lug nuts for your wheels. Basically if they are mag style lug nuts you want them to be long enough to go almost all the way through the wheel but not bottom out. If they are conical they tighten on the tapered seat machined into the wheel.

It is highly unlikely that your wheels are this way but there are also ball seat lug nuts. These seemed to be more prevalent in the mid 80's OEM wheels. I know GM and VW both used ball seat lug nuts in the mid 80s.

Little info here on lug centric.
http://www.tirerack.com/FAQ/results....gory=Wheels#10

[jtp67-72]

Originally Posted by OhOneWS6

Not all lug centric wheels use conical lug nuts. Many use short, medium or long mag lug nuts. Most OEM wheels are hub centric, most after market wheels are lug centric. All 6 lug wheels are 6 on 5.5 bolt circle. It does not matter foreign or domestic. The reason most after market wheels are lug centric is to allow them to fit on multiple vehicles.

Take one lug nut off and take a picture of the hole in the wheel as well as the lug nut. That will help determine if you have the correct lug nuts for your wheels.

Little info here on lug centric.
http://www.tirerack.com/FAQ/results....gory=Wheels#10

Trailblazer and Envoy are 6 on 5.......jim

[Zoomin]

If you notice vibration like your wheel is out of balance, it's safe to say it makes a difference.

[OhOneWS6]

Originally Posted by jtp67-72

Trailblazer and Envoy are 6 on 5.......jim

I stand corrected. Thanks for pointing that out Jim. I would edit my post but it is too late. I have been out of wheels and tire sales for a few years now. If those were 6 on 5 they would not even go on the studs. Looking at the pics those wheels and that truck were around long before the trailblazer was even a thought.

[jtp67-72]

no problem-bought a set of t.b.ss wheels to put on my pickup---well U can guess what happened!!!!!!!!!!!!...........learned the hard way...........jim

[schurg]

I just wanted add that there are quite a few 6 lug patterns. to say the ALL are 6x5.5 is ridiculous, there are 6:114.3mm, 6:127mm,6:135mm, and 6:139.7. now, the worst part, the last 2 are considered 6:5:5", even though they are 4.7mm different! thats 1/4" for all intents and purposes.

[OhOneWS6]

...

[OhOneWS6]

With all that out of the way back to the OP's original question. There are lug centric wheels that use lug nuts that are not conical. This appears to be what you have. A picture of the wheel with a lug nut off and a pic of the lug nut itself will help to confirm this.

[schurg]

LOL..ohone, I'm just bustin yer balls...I do agree with you though, lets see some more detail on this situation, ie, lug seats and lugs. and they do make hubcentric adapters that are nice to use as well :P

[OhOneWS6]

Originally Posted by schurg

LOL..ohone, I'm just bustin yer balls...I do agree with you though, lets see some more detail on this situation, ie, lug seats and lugs. and they do make hubcentric adapters that are nice to use as well :P

It's all good. :beers: Agreed on the adapters.

[Joe Blaze]

i have the cone shaped bolt hole seat, as well as conical wheel nuts.

[truckster]

Your lug nuts should center your wheel. The only thing that concerns me from the pics is that it looks like your lugs aren't long enough for the thickness of your wheel. It's kind of hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like they might only be grabbing 1/4 to 3/8 inch, which isn't enough for safety.

[Joe Blaze]

Originally Posted by truckster

Your lug nuts should center your wheel. The only thing that concerns me from the pics is that it looks like your lugs aren't long enough for the thickness of your wheel. It's kind of hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like they might only be grabbing 1/4 to 3/8 inch, which isn't enough for safety.

do you know the procedure for changing the lugs to longer ones? is the 4X4 hub in the front a hassle to remove?

[special-K]

I think you worded the title wrong. No,it's not ok for a wheel to not center on the hub. It will ride like you have egg-shaped wheels. I think you meant,"Is it ok for the wheel not to ride on the hub" or "Is it ok for the vehicle weight to only bear on the lugs"...etc.

Originally Posted by Joe Blaze

do you know the procedure for changing the lugs to longer ones? is the 4X4 hub in the front a hassle to remove?

You can just smack them out with a drift punch and hammer and repeat to install,then tighten the lug nuts on (without wheel) to draw the studs up tight. Look for studs with the same spline depth (length) only longer in overall length. Take one with you to compare. What the length vs depth of a chrome cap-type lug nut. You don't want to bottom the nut out on the stud before the wkeel is drawn tight.
Not sure what you mean about removing the front hub on a 4wd. Do you mean pull it off the spindle or from a rotor? Neither are hard to do.
...................

I totally understood what OhOne was saying when he said "all" 6-lugs are the same. He meant any 6-lug that will fit on your studs is the age-old common 6 on 5.5 used on GM 1/2 tons (such as the OP's truck) for eons. Obviously,if a lug pattern is 5mm off,the wheel won't fit on. It is always important to install and tighten lugs in a cross pattern. I religiously follow a skip two pattern on my 8-lugs,even when installing the plastic lugs for the center cap. On 5 and 6 lugs I skip one. And always snug up,then fairly tight,drop down on ground,and torque up.

[OhOneWS6]

X3 on the studs. Looks like you really need longer ones. Is there a wheel maker cast into those wheels anywhere?

[Joe Blaze]

Originally Posted by OhOneWS6

X3 on the studs. Looks like you really need longer ones. Is there a wheel maker cast into those wheels anywhere?

What do you have to pull off to get the studs out? I am hesitant to mess with the front 4x4 hub selector, as it looks like there are a lot of parts in there. How about the rear hubs? Is there mush to take off? Are longer studs available with the right spline pattern for these models?
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[Dunenutt]

First, get a book for your truck! Second, you are going to need a socket made for the hub nuts.The hubs and bearings are simple to service, and need to be done periodically. Once you have done them the first time, it will take a couple of hours to do both wheels.

When you have the rotors off, just drive the old studs out with a punch and hammer. When you get your new studs, pick up a few standard lug nuts, and some washers that fit the studs. You insert the stud from the back, stack some greased washers on the stud, and install the nut. Tighten the nut until the shoulder of the stud is against the rotor.

OR! take the rotors to the shop where you bought your studs, and have them pressed in.

[Joe Blaze]

Originally Posted by Dunenutt

First, get a book for your truck! Second, you are going to need a socket made for the hub nuts.The hubs and bearings are simple to service, and need to be done periodically. Once you have done them the first time, it will take a couple of hours to do both wheels.

When you have the rotors off, just drive the old studs out with a punch and hammer. When you get your new studs, pick up a few standard lug nuts, and some washers that fit the studs. You insert the stud from the back, stack some greased washers on the stud, and install the nut. Tighten the nut until the shoulder of the stud is against the rotor.

OR! take the rotors to the shop where you bought your studs, and have them pressed in.

I have the book, it refers to a dust cap, which i dont have on either wheel, i am on page 3-3, but i am probably looking at the wrong thing.