Inexpensive air driers?

[pritch]

Is there such a thing? I need to find something, I'm tired of my sandblaster getting wet, and I should start painting one of these days. The guy at the compressor store wants way more $ than I have for what he calls bottom-of-the-line unit.

All I have right now is one of those 40 dollar inline thing that's about 2" diameter and 4 or 5 long. It does next to nothing, in my opinion.

[72lb4x4]

Describe your air line setup.

If you only have a rubber air hose connected at the compressor, there's going to be a lot of water vapor coming out then other end. its not easy to get water out of hot air. You meed to cool it a bit before it flows through the dryer.

There are plenty of writeups about air line systems. Try tptools.com if you want to see one example.

Drain the water out of the tank every time you use it. More often if possible. This is just for the health of the tank...

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by pritch

Is there such a thing? I need to find something, I'm tired of my sandblaster getting wet, and I should start painting one of these days. The guy at the compressor store wants way more $ than I have for what he calls bottom-of-the-line unit.

All I have right now is one of those 40 dollar inline thing that's about 2" diameter and 4 or 5 long. It does next to nothing, in my opinion.

You already have the inexpensive one. You need the $300 one now. I added a refrigerated dryer that cost me $300 off eBay. Solved all the water issues.

[pritch]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

You already have the inexpensive one. You need the $300 one now. I added a refrigerated dryer that cost me $300 off eBay. Solved all the water issues.

Dang it. That's what I was afraid of

I do need to do some hard line plumbing. That is what I have-hose coming right out of the reg. I'm real tired of dragging an air hose around. And I need to be better about draining the tank.

[72lb4x4]

Get a few nipples, elbow and a ball valve to move the drain valve out to the side of the tank. Then you can reach it easier and the nipples make a small holding area for water. You don't have to drain the tank, just open the valve for a second to let the water out. Do this every few hours til no water comes out.

I'll bet less than 1 in 1000 home users have a nice refrigerated dryer but if you have the money...

[cdowns]

i use an inexpensive (less than $50) drier from harbor frieght then i have a length of hose40' that goes into an old 30gallon compressor tank and another drier coming out of that tank that my work hose ic connected to// i live about 1/8mile from ocean in florida and have had zore moisture problems with my pressurized sand blaster pot ,my blast cabinet, or spraying paint either

[truckdude239]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-IN-1-REFRI...item5d30b0d323

[cdowns]

nobody has asked the question so i will// what type of sand are you using? are you using "play sand"(loaded with moisture from home depot) or bagged graded sandblasating sand?

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-IN-1-REFRI...item5d30b0d323

The problem with this one is that if it breaks you have to order parts from china or buy a new one. I looked at this one and decided to go with a known brand. Ebay has some speed air ones listed

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by cdowns

i use an inexpensive (less than $50) drier from harbor frieght then i have a length of hose40' that goes into an old 30gallon compressor tank and another drier coming out of that tank that my work hose ic connected to// i live about 1/8mile from ocean in florida and have had zore moisture problems with my pressurized sand blaster pot ,my blast cabinet, or spraying paint either

I know someone that has a very similar setup. 2, 80 gallon tanks and a desiccant and dryer on the end of 40 feet of line. It works very well for him here in Houston.

[pritch]

Originally Posted by cdowns

nobody has asked the question so i will// what type of sand are you using? are you using "play sand"(loaded with moisture from home depot) or bagged graded sandblasating sand?

In my cabinet I use 40/30 garnet and in my pot I use 70 grit silica. And yes, I take the necessary precautions.

[NONHOG]

Here are some ideas ....http://www.hotrodders.com/kb/air-compressors

[PanelDeland]

I actually installed an "inverted bucket steam trap" on a work compressor once.As the water fills the trap it raises the bucket and lets the water pass out a female pipe fitting.as the water level drops the bucket drops and closes the orifice.It kept the water drained from the tank so that a smaller air dryer worked instead of having to buy a larger dryer.You might also try that on drip leg to help lower the moisture content even more.The less wet there is the better a dryer works.

[pritch]

Funny how things work out. Over the weekend, I finally decided to start running some hard line properly, but didn't know how to pay for some pipe. Then on Monday, the plumber at my work said he was gonna throw some away, because it was pre-painted and he didn't have any use for it. I asked him if I could have it and he said heck yeah, keeps him from having to mess with it. 3 sticks of 1" and 2 of 3/4". Painted off-white.

Now I think I have some swearing-er, plumbing in my future.

[theastronaut]

I built my own refridgerated air drier for our shop very cheaply. I'll post pics tomorrow. Works great, pulls all the moisture out and I've had zero problems with contamination while painting. You'll wonder why you never though of this
Posted via Mobile Device

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

I'll post pics tomorrow.
Posted via Mobile Device

Tease!

[theastronaut]

Here's a hint: It involves a 5 gallon bucket and something you might find in a dorm room.
Posted via Mobile Device

[theastronaut]

Here it is guys. Its a dorm fridge with a 5 gallon bucket of water inside, and 20 feet of copper tubing coiled inside of the bucket of water. The cold water cools the air line so that the water vapor can condense and be caught by the water trap on the outside of the fridge. I've got it connected with quick disconects so I can move it if I need to. Works great! I haven't had any problems with contamination since I started using it.

[dwcsr]

True redneck engineering would be a kegerator and wrapped the hose around a full keg but I have to say its a great idea.

[RanchFlyer]

I think there is something that has been overlooked. Is the compressor really up to the task of all that blasting? If you are running the snot out of the compressor, it is going to make HOT-WET air. Fixing the wet part can be done but you may find yourself still with other problems (burnt valves, worn rings). A properly sized compressor with a factory aftercooler will deliver near ambient dew point air all day long.

The most effective band-aid (outside of a refridgerated unit bought or home-brewed) would be described below.
1 flex line out of the compressor.
2 to a copper line as far down the wall as you can at a slight downward incline.
3 mount your current moisture trap filter down at the end of the run in step 2.
4 option Motorguard M-60 or Wix aquacheck both less that $100
5 your current regulator and what ever piping or hoses you want.

That's just my .02

[theastronaut]

Our compressor at the shop is outside in it's own shed. There's about 30 feet of pipe to bring air inside the shop with a water seperator/drain inside the shop at the lowest point- this is all before air is routed to the rest of the shop. This first drain will catch some water, but not much since the air hasn't had time to cool off enough to condense the vapor out of it. I've got the fridge drier in my stall and it catches about four times more water than the first trap, and that's after its been though the first trap! The air line coming out of the fridge will actually be cold to the touch all the way up to the air reel mounted near the ceiling, cold enough for water to condense on the outside of the lines! Unless the air is cooled enough, the vapor can't be condensed and drained out, no matter how many water traps you have or where they are arranged.

[Dunenutt]

^^^^ Exactly ^^^^^

[RanchFlyer]

I agree refrigerated air driers are nice and certainly work. Astronaut my hat is off for having the best home brewed refrigerated drier I have seen. The arrangement I suggested is listed as an inexpensive (under $100) band-aid not a cure. I still stand by that a properly sized compressor with a factory aftercooler will solve alot of problems. I have personally installed a full package Gardner Denver R30 pump, spinning 700 rpm, through the factory aftercooler, to the tank and then to a Wix Aquachek as suggested above. That unit when new provided 0 degree dewpoint air as tested by a Beko DPM.

A machine with a big pump turning slow is my day in day out recommendation. That pump turning 700 rpm puts way less heat into the air to begin with, compared to say a marginally sized pump running 2500rpm (IR Standard Package from sears or Tractor Supply).

My current machine at home is an IR model 2340 but I changed the drive shieve to get the pump speed down. That is into an Toolguard filter. If you would like I can ask the Beko rep if I can borrow a demo Dewpoint monitor, and test it. I would wager it is less than the 32 that any refrigerated drier is capable of.

[pritch]

There are many good ideas and thoughts here. I think the first thing I need to do is get busy on hard lines. I pretty much have enough pipe now, just need some time.

[ETsC10]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Here it is guys. Its a dorm fridge with a 5 gallon bucket of water inside, and 20 feet of copper tubing coiled inside of the bucket of water. The cold water cools the air line so that the water vapor can condense and be caught by the water trap on the outside of the fridge. I've got it connected with quick disconects so I can move it if I need to. Works great! I haven't had any problems with contamination since I started using it.

That Thing Rocks!!
Me thinks it would be a great FAQ!

Originally Posted by RanchFlyer

I think there is something that has been overlooked. Is the compressor really up to the task of all that blasting? If you are running the snot out of the compressor, it is going to make HOT-WET air. Fixing the wet part can be done but you may find yourself still with other problems (burnt valves, worn rings). A properly sized compressor with a factory aftercooler will deliver near ambient dew point air all day long.

The most effective band-aid (outside of a refridgerated unit bought or home-brewed) would be described below.
1 flex line out of the compressor.
2 to a copper line as far down the wall as you can at a slight downward incline.
3 mount your current moisture trap filter down at the end of the run in step 2.
4 option Motorguard M-60 or Wix aquacheck both less that $100
5 your current regulator and what ever piping or hoses you want.

That's just my .02

Your posts are more than .02 worth...thanks!
Your later post helps explain the dynamics well
and thanks for that too.