HEI won't go in - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Alexis · 04-15-2003, 08:16 PM

it has about a 1/2 inch gap between the intake manifold and the flange that suppose to seat it self? any thoughts? thanks

Slammed67 · 04-15-2003, 08:20 PM

Crank the engine over a little. There is a slot on the oil pump drive shaft that has to line up with the tab on the distributor shaft. Just turn it over and it'll drop down.

trailwart · 04-15-2003, 08:22 PM

or try using a long screw driver to turn the shaft

Kid · 04-15-2003, 08:26 PM

do you have a chevy HEI? I have one that is about .75 longer than normal. I think it is a olds or pontiac. It would have the gap you describe if installed on chevy. Measure your HEI from intake flange to lower end of unit. If it is chevy, then your oil pump drive shaft needs clocked to allow the tang on bottom of HEI to engage. (this misalignment should only hold HEI out about 1/4")

Alexis · 04-15-2003, 08:31 PM

GOT IT thanks to AIM and Slammed67 help. thanks every one else for helping out too.

Ed ke6bnl · 04-17-2003, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Slammed67
Crank the engine over a little. There is a slot on the oil pump drive shaft that has to line up with the tab on the distributor shaft. Just turn it over and it'll drop down.

Got a question, I have in the past just tried to align the oil pump then reinstall the dist. Lets say you have the dist aligned in the correct position, you are saying that you can just turn the motor let say by the fly wheel or engine starter and get it to drop down will that throw off the timing, maybe not as long as the dist gear is ingaged and turns. Is that what you are saying. Ed ke6bnl

72K10 · 04-17-2003, 07:59 AM

Ed, you are right in that it would throw off the timing if you cranked over the engine to get the distributor to drop. You have to do like you said, only turn the oil pump to get it aligned. As trailwart said, a long screwdriver will work, and a long scraper screwdriver will work better, with the wide blade. Also you can use an old distributor shaft, as it marries up well.

If you just pulled the distributor without worrying about #1 on top dead center, then the distributor has to go in the exact same way it came out, with the engine at the exact same place. That's why you can't crank the engine.

If you're building an engine, or for some other reason are starting at #1 cylinder at TDC, then the distributor must be aligned for TDC. Again, you can't crank the engine or you'll lose TDC.

Only way to do it is to turn the free-spinning oil pump tang at the bottom of the distributor pit until it lines up with the angle on the distributor slot. Then ease the distributor in. You can wiggle the distributor a little once it's close, but not enough to throw it off by a full cylinder.

Long Knight · 04-17-2003, 10:16 AM

I've always turned it over to get the distributor to drop in. I never can seem to get it in right the first time anyway, always one tooth off. Regarless, how is turning it by hand better than hitting the starter for a second? The distributor is on the gear part way (at least mine is), so you are just turning it to line it up with the oil pump, right? Also, isn't the timing always off after you pull the distributor? I can never get mine in exactly the way it was before and I always have to time it when I'm done. I'm just curious to know a little more about this.

Blue68 · 04-17-2003, 10:42 AM

Thing about getting the distributor to drop when you do the install is to keep in mind you are not taking a straight shot at it. Since the gears are at an angle, you have to think about the approach. It is best to get the oil pump lined up using a old distributor shaft or screw driver based on where it looks like the distributor will line up.

I've found that a point of reference on the valve cover somewhere is about the best way to START with the distributor install. This will give you (again with the angle) a target to shoot for with the install. I doubt very seriously if it is possible to hit perfect timing with an install, at least not consistently. Marking the distributor shaft body and intake manifold might prove me wrong though. Thing is, my marks usually don't stay or I'm replacing the intake, distributor or some other referencable part when I pull the distributor.

One more thing, It seems to me that I have to go one more tooth with an HEI than I did with the points distributor to get it to timing right. Short of really twisting it up, I pull the distributor and move it one tooth. This also helps keep the wires going to more or less the correct spot shown in shop manuals.

andyr354 · 04-17-2003, 03:36 PM

Quote:

I have one that is about .75 longer than normal. I think it is a olds or pontiac.

Maybe Pontiac, olds is much shorter than chevy since it doesn't go through the intake manifold. Makes it nice on a olds you don't have to pull the disributor to remove the intake or heads, if you ever had to work on an olds that is

they run forever.

72K10 · 04-17-2003, 06:22 PM

When you turn the oil pump tang by hand, you are not moving the engine and you are not changing the position of the cylinders. When you bump the engine, you are changing the position of the cylinders. The distributor and cylinders have to be exactly aligned to run right. One tooth off and you get backfiring and really poor running.

crazy longhorn · 04-17-2003, 06:49 PM

If the dist teeth are started into the cam gear, you can hold a little pressure on the dist & have somebody bump the starter.....assuming that the dist is stared in in the proper spot(slightly CC of where it will end up bolted down)......the dist will drop into the oilpump shaft, & will not affect the timing. If you turn the eng with the dist out.....thats another story! crazyL

robby · 04-17-2003, 08:55 PM

Did you have the engine apart? Iknow it is unlikely but it happend to me last year. I put in a big block pump driveshaft that I had on the workbench when I put my 307 together. Probably not your issue but it is possible.

gmc67swb · 04-17-2003, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by crazy longhorn
If the dist teeth are started into the cam gear, you can hold a little pressure on the dist & have somebody bump the starter.....assuming that the dist is stared in in the proper spot(slightly CC of where it will end up bolted down)......the dist will drop into the oilpump shaft, & will not affect the timing. If you turn the eng with the dist out.....thats another story! crazyL

I WAS WAITING FOR SOMEONE TO SAY THAT. I'VE ALWAYS DONE IT THAT WAY. WORKS LIKE A CHAMP.

Long Knight · 04-21-2003, 09:41 AM

I don't even hold presure on it 'cause I'm usually by myself and have to hit the starter. If I ever pull my distributor and get it in right the first time I will be the happiest man alive, at least for a couple minutes.

04-15-2003, 08:20 PM	#2
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Crank the engine over a little. There is a slot on the oil pump drive shaft that has to line up with the tab on the distributor shaft. Just turn it over and it'll drop down. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

04-15-2003, 08:22 PM	#3
trailwart Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: michigan Posts: 356	or try using a long screw driver to turn the shaft __________________ 72 chevy 3\4 ton 4 speed 4x4 84 1\2 ton 4x4 (gone but not forgotten, thanks for the memories) 1999 suburban 4x4 1982 chevrolet S-10 V-8 (Thanks uncle EARL)

04-15-2003, 08:26 PM	#4
Kid Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Kansas Posts: 702	do you have a chevy HEI? I have one that is about .75 longer than normal. I think it is a olds or pontiac. It would have the gap you describe if installed on chevy. Measure your HEI from intake flange to lower end of unit. If it is chevy, then your oil pump drive shaft needs clocked to allow the tang on bottom of HEI to engage. (this misalignment should only hold HEI out about 1/4") __________________ The kid Build threads: 51 Jimmy http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=154951 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=219902 http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...uck/index.html 68 C10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=50348

04-17-2003, 07:59 AM	#7
72K10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: New York Posts: 288	Ed, you are right in that it would throw off the timing if you cranked over the engine to get the distributor to drop. You have to do like you said, only turn the oil pump to get it aligned. As trailwart said, a long screwdriver will work, and a long scraper screwdriver will work better, with the wide blade. Also you can use an old distributor shaft, as it marries up well. If you just pulled the distributor without worrying about #1 on top dead center, then the distributor has to go in the exact same way it came out, with the engine at the exact same place. That's why you can't crank the engine. If you're building an engine, or for some other reason are starting at #1 cylinder at TDC, then the distributor must be aligned for TDC. Again, you can't crank the engine or you'll lose TDC. Only way to do it is to turn the free-spinning oil pump tang at the bottom of the distributor pit until it lines up with the angle on the distributor slot. Then ease the distributor in. You can wiggle the distributor a little once it's close, but not enough to throw it off by a full cylinder. __________________ RLTW 70C10 72K10 72K10 Cheyenne 72C10 Cheyenne Super

04-17-2003, 10:16 AM	#8
Long Knight Spank 'em if you got 'em! Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Kansas City Posts: 628	I've always turned it over to get the distributor to drop in. I never can seem to get it in right the first time anyway, always one tooth off. Regarless, how is turning it by hand better than hitting the starter for a second? The distributor is on the gear part way (at least mine is), so you are just turning it to line it up with the oil pump, right? Also, isn't the timing always off after you pull the distributor? I can never get mine in exactly the way it was before and I always have to time it when I'm done. I'm just curious to know a little more about this. __________________ Long Knight '71 C-20, 350ci, TH350, Edl. 1406 Carb w/elec.choke, Ignitor ignition, Viper Tires, Orange Dipstick

04-15-2003, 08:16 PM	#1
Alexis Member since 2000 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Mountain View Ca / Mexico Posts: 7,874	HEI won't go in it has about a 1/2 inch gap between the intake manifold and the flange that suppose to seat it self? any thoughts? thanks

04-15-2003, 08:31 PM	#5
Alexis Member since 2000 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Mountain View Ca / Mexico Posts: 7,874	GOT IT thanks to AIM and Slammed67 help. thanks every one else for helping out too.

04-17-2003, 10:42 AM	#9
Blue68 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Frisco, Tx, USA Posts: 606	Thing about getting the distributor to drop when you do the install is to keep in mind you are not taking a straight shot at it. Since the gears are at an angle, you have to think about the approach. It is best to get the oil pump lined up using a old distributor shaft or screw driver based on where it looks like the distributor will line up. I've found that a point of reference on the valve cover somewhere is about the best way to START with the distributor install. This will give you (again with the angle) a target to shoot for with the install. I doubt very seriously if it is possible to hit perfect timing with an install, at least not consistently. Marking the distributor shaft body and intake manifold might prove me wrong though. Thing is, my marks usually don't stay or I'm replacing the intake, distributor or some other referencable part when I pull the distributor. One more thing, It seems to me that I have to go one more tooth with an HEI than I did with the points distributor to get it to timing right. Short of really twisting it up, I pull the distributor and move it one tooth. This also helps keep the wires going to more or less the correct spot shown in shop manuals. __________________ http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.

04-17-2003, 06:22 PM	#11
72K10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: New York Posts: 288	When you turn the oil pump tang by hand, you are not moving the engine and you are not changing the position of the cylinders. When you bump the engine, you are changing the position of the cylinders. The distributor and cylinders have to be exactly aligned to run right. One tooth off and you get backfiring and really poor running. __________________ RLTW 70C10 72K10 72K10 Cheyenne 72C10 Cheyenne Super

04-17-2003, 06:49 PM	#12
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	If the dist teeth are started into the cam gear, you can hold a little pressure on the dist & have somebody bump the starter.....assuming that the dist is stared in in the proper spot(slightly CC of where it will end up bolted down)......the dist will drop into the oilpump shaft, & will not affect the timing. If you turn the eng with the dist out.....thats another story! crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

04-17-2003, 08:55 PM	#13
robby Semper Fidelis Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Cedar City, Utah Posts: 654	Did you have the engine apart? Iknow it is unlikely but it happend to me last year. I put in a big block pump driveshaft that I had on the workbench when I put my 307 together. Probably not your issue but it is possible. __________________ 72 Chevy C 20 with 402 For sale 85 GMC K2500 83 Trans Am Cedar City, Utah (Missouri Native)

04-21-2003, 09:41 AM	#15
Long Knight Spank 'em if you got 'em! Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Kansas City Posts: 628	I don't even hold presure on it 'cause I'm usually by myself and have to hit the starter. If I ever pull my distributor and get it in right the first time I will be the happiest man alive, at least for a couple minutes. __________________ Long Knight '71 C-20, 350ci, TH350, Edl. 1406 Carb w/elec.choke, Ignitor ignition, Viper Tires, Orange Dipstick



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