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10-21-2011, 07:57 AM | #1 |
Redneck Hillbilly
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Backwoods
Posts: 1,307
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Question for you I-6 fellows.....
I've got some friends really pushing me to build my (or another) I-6 for my truck instead of going V8. I'm starting to warm up to the idea, as I have always enjoyed driving the inline engines. I have a couple quick questions regarding the headers for these engines. Are there any clearance issues with the mechanical Z-bar shift linkages? And.....For lowered trucks, do the long tubes for the I-6 hang low like the V8 headers do? What headers would you guys more recommend for a dropped and manual trans pickup? Thanks.
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10-21-2011, 09:46 AM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: bismarck North Dakota
Posts: 51
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Re: Question for you I-6 fellows.....
I used the cast iron headers from Tom Langdon at Stovebolt. Excellent fit for my application.
http://stoveboltengineco.com/index.p...=0&sort=normal |
10-21-2011, 11:16 AM | #3 |
It's Better With Nitro
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Chino Hills, CA
Posts: 2,262
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Re: Question for you I-6 fellows.....
X2...If you are going to lower your truck, I would go with Langdon's or a set of shorty headers. Here's a photo of Langon's on a 292 conversion we did on a friend's Chevy II:
Here's a set of Clifford shorty headers:
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1963 C-10: Deluxe-optioned cab, shortbed, fleetside Pontiac 462 ci, Kauffman D-Port alum. heads 4L80E, narrowed sheetmetal Ford 9-inch Tubular front and rear suspension Custom 6-piston front disc and 4-piston rear disc brakes |
10-21-2011, 01:07 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Orange, CA
Posts: 525
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Re: Question for you I-6 fellows.....
Definitely use langdon's Cast or Clifford shorties. Best 2 on the market. Both are awesome guys, you can call up and talk to them directly.
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10-22-2011, 05:06 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Rathdrum, Idaho
Posts: 1,135
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Re: Question for you I-6 fellows.....
Tom Langdon's cast iron are the best if you don't like hearing the hearing the headers "tic" The long tube headers are no good for that reason,and they will drag on the ground if you want to lower your truck. You may have to move the clutch linkage to the right a little, but the three on the tree should be fine. Cast Iron is best IMO...Vernski
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10-22-2011, 05:29 AM | #6 |
Redneck Hillbilly
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Backwoods
Posts: 1,307
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Re: Question for you I-6 fellows.....
Vernski: I'm running a 4 -speed granny on the floor, same issue with the clutch linkage there?
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10-22-2011, 06:30 AM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Rathdrum, Idaho
Posts: 1,135
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Re: Question for you I-6 fellows.....
I don't know if mine was an exception or not it's a 65 GMC w/230 w/gr 4sp I had to cut the arm that goes to the clutch and move it an inch or right so it would clear the front head pipe as it comes down beside the bottom of the block. I had pre-bent pipe from a kit that I welded together, possibly a muffler shop could bend the pipe to clear it. So that's what happened in my case and you may not have to do that if you have access to a pipe bender. The front header comes down at an angle inline with the clutch...Vernski
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10-22-2011, 07:28 AM | #8 |
Redneck Hillbilly
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Backwoods
Posts: 1,307
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Re: Question for you I-6 fellows.....
I see, that makes sense. Hey, where did you find an exhaust kit? I'm not having much luck searching yet (only really been seriously thinking on this for a few days now), and there is only one exhaust shop in town. The guy is a bit of a jerk-off who thinks his work is worth gold, so it would be nice just to find something with a bunch of prebent pipes even. I can weld something together and add my own mufflers if necessary, I just don't have a way to bent the pipe so some kind of kit would be great. Thanks again.
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10-22-2011, 09:18 AM | #9 |
Six in a row makes it go...
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vacationland: Maine
Posts: 1,346
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Re: Question for you I-6 fellows.....
I had a 250 in my '66 with Clifford shorty headers. They cleared the cross-shaft.
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67 C20 long step resto: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342086 66 C10 long step build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post3814790 CT to Alaska in a 67 C10: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=399224 “The height of sophistication is simplicity." - Clare Boothe Luce |
10-22-2011, 04:02 PM | #10 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Rathdrum, Idaho
Posts: 1,135
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Re: Question for you I-6 fellows.....
Quote:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...30670/10002/-1 |
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10-23-2011, 02:39 AM | #11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: N Texas
Posts: 580
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Re: Question for you I-6 fellows.....
I agree with using the Langdon cast headers, and then using mandrel bent tubing sections from summit or jegs and welding up your own exhaust if you can. When you do you will realize why the "muffler shop" prices are high. It's Very labor intensive work and you really need a metal band saw- which aren't cheap.
My Langdons look like they will pose no problem for the clutch z bar, but I'm not using that (and here's another option for you), I'm using a hydraulic slave that mounts with the kit from Novak. It is actually is in the way of my exhaust more than the stock Z bar I think.
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10-27-2011, 03:46 AM | #12 | |
Redneck Hillbilly
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Backwoods
Posts: 1,307
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Re: Question for you I-6 fellows.....
Quote:
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