No Fuel??

[Born Lucky]

O.K. I just finished installing my engine. I installed new cam, new lifters. new
valve o-rings. I also cleaned all the carbon and installed all new gaskets.
I when to start the engine and found no fuel coming to the carb. I can tell because I also installed a glass fuel filter before the carb.
I used starting fluid and all I got was a loud pop(with some flames coming from the exhaust manifold)) but no fuel and no start.
The engine cranks nice and wants to start.
In the reassembly I thought I installed the fuel pump correctly. This is my first major engine job, so I could have installed it wrong.
Question 1 Can someone give me instructions as to install the fuel pump. I am going to pull it and I may purchase a new one since the old one appears to be original.
Question2 What is causing the loud pop?

[383longhorn]

did you forget to install the fuel pump drive rod when instaling the new camshaft. aslo check if you have the inlet and outlet lines correct. and maybe try pulling the spark plugs from the motor and cranking it with the starter to prime the fuel system. look down your carb and hit the throttle and once you see the fuel squirt from the accelerator pump your good to go

[383longhorn]

and the loud pop could be your ignition timing 180 out

[Born Lucky]

Fuel pump drive rod? I do not think I forgot to install this piece.
I am looking at the manual and could not locate the drive rod, is it the rocker arm?
I think the timing could be off. I installed it to the maual directions, but being my first major project(mechanical) I could have.
I will try turning the distibutor 180 and see what happens!

[Born Lucky]

I forgot to state that this is a 292 engine
If this changes things

[Born Lucky]

I just visted NAPA online and they had a photo of the push rod.
Now that i see this, I beleive that I did not install the push rod.
When I disassembled the engine I did not see this part, so in reassembling I installed what I removed.
I do hope I can install this item without major disassembly?

[Captainfab]

The I6 engines do not have the fuel pump pushrod, only the V8's do. On the I6's the fuel pump is actuated directly from the camshaft.

[b2948kevin]

Make sure you get fuel primed up through the filter. I had trouble recently trying to get fuel to the carb. I just sucked on the tube until fuel came up into the filter. After that, the pump was able to take over.
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[losthope]

sometimes it takes for ever trying to get the fuel system primed again, Ive killed the battery trying to crank it over to get fuel up to carb...i suggest unhooking it from the inlet side of the fuel pump and see if the fuel pours out of the hose if it does pour out the fuel pump might need to be replaced if your not getting fuel to carb bowl,...if it doesnt pour out ethier use a siphon pump or the old school way and suck on it to see if you get the fuel to flow out.....if you cant get it to pour out something is blocking the fuel from tank to end of hose...

And the best way i learned to get it primed if your getting fuel to pump is pour a little gas into the carb and start it up, repeat till engine stays running....works better then the starting fluid that evaporates by the time you get in cab and turn the key....i would take caution tho if your backfiring out the carb ,might cause the fuel to ignite and you have to rush and fan out the fire from carb, best thing todo is get the timing close as you can by setting everything up to top dead center on number one cylinder and distributor rotor on number one.

[Born Lucky]

That sounds like a plan now.
Now, with the timing can I just turn the rotor 180 and start from there?
At the start I had TDC and thought I had the distributor set correct.

[Born Lucky]

I did a little work on the truck today and got the fuel to flow. It just was not primed!
Now, my next job is that I am not receiving spark. I will be following the manual to check all ignition parts.
Any ideas out there?

[losthope]

first off need to know if your running hei or points?

Start from square one with the ignition system , pull the number one spark plug and put a piece of tissue or napkin paper over the hole push it in a little , turn the motor over with the crank shaft pulley nut and a socket and breaker bar till that paper shoots out(Might have to do this a couple times to be sure paper shoots out) you then should be on the compression stroke.... Pull the cap off the distributor and watch the rotor and which way its rotating as you finish bringing the motor around till the timing tab is reading "0" or "tdc" and see if the rotor is facing the number one plug wire post (sometimes the number one plug is marked on cap)if its not loosen the distributor hold down and lift the distributor up and turn the rotor untill its facing number one plug wire post on cap, might have to wiggle it in and mess with it to get it set right and then tighten hold down enough that you can still turn the dizzy with a little bit of effort ....when you get it facing number one plug wire post or if it was when you turned it onto "tdc" then set your points with a feeler gauge (you will have to look up setting i dont know off the top of my head)and replace the cap and the number one spark plug..... If you have "HEI" just replace cap...then the next step is make sure all the plug wires are wired right and in the same rotation the rotor was turning, then check the gap on all your plugs with a plug gapper, this should be enough to get it to fire, try starting it and if it runs use a timing light and time it to right specs by turning the distributor back and froth,then tighten down distributor hold down, if it doesnt run then youll have to check if you coils good or coil pack on "HEI" which ever your running or if your wiring's right to the distributor or coil or if its getting power at all .....also if you have had the motor sitting any length of time and and the spark plugs in it they could foul up, ive had a motor that wouldnt start replaced the plugs and it fired right up i always suggest new plugs on a fresh fire up , also make sure the gap on new plugs are gapped right they are not always gapped right brand new and will not spark if mot gapped right. try doing what i said first and if not ill walk you thur testing your coil and wiring...also if you have a new coil they come bad also sometimes...also double and triple check plug wires( ive swore i had them right but they weren't on many occasions)!

[Born Lucky]

Originally Posted by losthope

first off need to know if your running hei or points?

Start from square one with the ignition system , pull the number one spark plug and put a piece of tissue or napkin paper over the hole push it in a little , turn the motor over with the crank shaft pulley nut and a socket and breaker bar till that paper shoots out(Might have to do this a couple times to be sure paper shoots out) you then should be on the compression stroke.... Pull the cap off the distributor and watch the rotor and which way its rotating as you finish bringing the motor around till the timing tab is reading "0" or "tdc" and see if the rotor is facing the number one plug wire post (sometimes the number one plug is marked on cap)if its not loosen the distributor hold down and lift the distributor up and turn the rotor untill its facing number one plug wire post on cap, might have to wiggle it in and mess with it to get it set right and then tighten hold down enough that you can still turn the dizzy with a little bit of effort ....when you get it facing number one plug wire post or if it was when you turned it onto "tdc" then set your points with a feeler gauge (you will have to look up setting i dont know off the top of my head)and replace the cap and the number one spark plug..... If you have "HEI" just replace cap...then the next step is make sure all the plug wires are wired right and in the same rotation the rotor was turning, then check the gap on all your plugs with a plug gapper, this should be enough to get it to fire, try starting it and if it runs use a timing light and time it to right specs by turning the distributor back and froth,then tighten down distributor hold down, if it doesnt run then youll have to check if you coils good or coil pack on "HEI" which ever your running or if your wiring's right to the distributor or coil or if its getting power at all .....also if you have had the motor sitting any length of time and and the spark plugs in it they could foul up, ive had a motor that wouldnt start replaced the plugs and it fired right up i always suggest new plugs on a fresh fire up , also make sure the gap on new plugs are gapped right they are not always gapped right brand new and will not spark if mot gapped right. try doing what i said first and if not ill walk you thur testing your coil and wiring...also if you have a new coil they come bad also sometimes...also double and triple check plug wires( ive swore i had them right but they weren't on many occasions)!

Ok.
I have a 292 with points!
Do I need to find TDC manually or can I use a remote starter?
I now have spark when I tested the positive side on the coil(before I did not)
I also have current at that point, I used a test light.
I have a fairly new cap and rotor, I tuned the old girl up in the spring weeks before I disassembled the engine.
I tested the hardness and all good.
need to know how to test the coil?

[losthope]

you can try to do it with the remote starter but i find it harder since it might jump past the tdc and you have to start all over but you can give it a try!

heres a easy way to see if your coil is sparking theres other ways to test it with a meter but this is just a down and dirty way to see if its throwing spark....make sure the key is in the on position or else it wont do anything:

Ignition Coil - How to Test - YouTube

[Born Lucky]

Originally Posted by losthope

you can try to do it with the remote starter but i find it harder since it might jump past the tdc and you have to start all over but you can give it a try!

heres a easy way to see if your coil is sparking theres other ways to test it with a meter but this is just a down and dirty way to see if its throwing spark....make sure the key is in the on position or else it wont do anything:
Ignition Coil - How to Test - YouTube

Ok- I have watched the video
Let's me repeat( in case in am wrong) I run a jumper from the ignition side to ground and I should have spark, I removed the wire that comes from dist..
I left the coil on truck and the yellow wire is still connected to Positive on the coil, I turned the key to on. Now when I do the test I get NO SPARK!!
Let me ask this, if I perform this other test I get spark. I leave everything connected and remove the secondary wire( connects coil to dist) from the dist. and crank the engine and I do get spark.
Also, I changed the points and condensor. Upon examination the points had a hole in them.

[losthope]

However you test it, as long as it sparks from the end of the wire that plugs into you distributer cap when its next to a ground your coil should be ok! If your still not getting spark it is from distributor to the spark plugs......to remedy this follow the instructions i said before on finding "tdc" on number#1 cylinder and and resetting distributor in with rotor facing number one plug....no matter what you do to get the motor to fire right or at all you have to be tdc on #1 cylinder

Step #1: find "tdc" on #1 cylinder on compression stroke

Step #2: get rotor facing #1 post on cap

Step #3: Set you points ( when its on "tdc" your points should be being pushed open by the high lobe point on your rotor this is when you set your gap with a feeler gauge, this is when your points open and your coil loses ground and sends the spark thur the cap thur the rotor tip down your spark plug wire into your spark plug out the spark plug into the cylinder fires the fuel off , so everything has to be set up on "tdc" #1 cylinder, points being open to fire the engine).
Step #4: semi tighten distributor , make sure wires are wired in right order to the right cylinders in the right rotation.

Step #5: gap your spark plugs

Step #6: fire that bad boy up!!

has to be done in this order to work, even if you dont want to do it, its not that hard once you do it and take your time.....start from the beginning and your efforts will be rewarded in the end.

[losthope]

fuel, air, spark is all you need to start your engine:

you have fuel

you know your coil is throwing spark

you assume the carb is going to work right and mix the air and fuel to run( you can fine tune this after you get it running)

the only thing to do is get the spark to fire at the right time and to make it all the way into the cylinder at the right time,and to do this follow the above instructions.

[losthope]

and as far as the video test all you do is remove the small wire on the coil thats going to your distributor(points) and put a jumper wire on that post ,unhook the secondary wire that plugs into your cap and have it close to a ground source like the motor , next turn the key to on position,and take the other end of the jumper wire and tap it back in forth to a ground like the motor, all your doing is acting like the points opening and closing......the way you did it does the same test.

[Born Lucky]

Thank you for all your help losthope!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am going to start from the beginning again. I willl start with removing my valve cover and spark plugs and locating the #1 piston on TCD ( compression stroke). I will watch the #6 exhaust valve begin to close and then the #1 intake will begin to open. I beleive at this point both #1 and #6 pistons will be in TDC. The #1 will be on compression, ready to fire the spark plug and the #6 at the top of the exhaust stroke. At this point I will reinstall the distributor with the rotor pointing toward the sheet metal cover over the lifters ,and turn the distributor housing(clockwise) until the points close. After this I will turn the housing until the points barely open and then lock down the distributor. With all this the rotor will be facing one of the cap towers,I will use this for the #1 plug wire. Then I will install the cap and the spark plug wire in the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4.
I am following the instructions from Hotrod Lincoln (from the Stovebolt forum)
If I am wrong please advise!!

[losthope]

sounds good keep us posted and good luck! might be a different or better way for the I6 from the stovebolt guys , the way i described is the way i learned and always worked for me on many different motors, there is always little differences on different motors but basically all doing the same thing.