how the hell do i get the filler bolt off my 12 bolt?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dropped72shortbed · 03-25-2002, 09:44 PM

the bolt that goes into my rear end is kinda stripped out. it used to be a 3/8 drive hole but now its kinda circular.

best way to get this bolt out? i can get a set of vice grips around in cause of the shape of the pumpkin, and the bolts round anyway so itll probably slip off.

71402BB · 03-25-2002, 09:49 PM

well this sounds like a stupid idea to me but what the heck I'll seggest anyway. got a cheap/junk pair of vise grips? you could always weld them on then hope like helt the bolt comes off then go down to napa and get a new plug for it!?! on second thought you better get that new plug first! LOL
I hope someone has a better idea first but if all else fails you could try my way.
------------------
71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's

72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!)

68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE with built 350 4-speed 4.11's and posi

[This message has been edited by 71402BB (edited March 25, 2002).]

dropped72shortbed · 03-25-2002, 09:50 PM

good idea!

oh wait.... i dont have a welder....

i drove by a pepboys and goodyear auto service center and asked if either of them could get it off for me, they both said no without even looking at it.

Bo · 03-25-2002, 09:51 PM

Weld a bolt to the inside of the filler bolt and heat up around the filler bolt. Then replace the filler bolt with a new one. Just one way to do it.

------------------
'67 Chevy SWB 454/400 under construction covers one city block!

Longhorn Man · 03-25-2002, 09:53 PM

Go to the junk yard, and get another cover.

------------------
'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
Need to pick up the one ton Longhorn with a PONTIAC 350/350soon.
Thanks every one!

Check out The Longhorn Webite.
If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com
Andy, in Columbus Ohio

71402BB · 03-25-2002, 09:53 PM

got a friend with a welder? or another board member thats pretty close by with one that would be willing to help you out?

------------------
71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's

72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!)

68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE with built 350 4-speed 4.11's and posi

71402BB · 03-25-2002, 09:55 PM

don't forget lonhornmail it's a 12 bolt I'm pretty sure that the 12 bolts have the plug in the rear of the housing, or I'm just really confused???

------------------
71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's

72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!)

68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE with built 350 4-speed 4.11's and posi

67Blacksheep · 03-25-2002, 09:58 PM

Dropped-
You could always try cutting or grinding it down to a square surface. Then use the vice grips. I use an air powered cut off wheel for shaping the old bolts when regular tools won't get them loose. Not a pretty way, but usually successful. Best of luck

------------------
67 Chevy C20 LB Stepside,
350 4-bolt with goodies.

dropped72shortbed · 03-25-2002, 10:03 PM

blacksheep,

that sounds like the best bet. ive got an angle grinder, ill try cut it down into a square, not like i can make it anyworse.

thanks.

Longhorn Man · 03-25-2002, 10:04 PM

off...thanks. Speakin out my @ss again here. You talking about a dana?

------------------
'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
Need to pick up the one ton Longhorn with a PONTIAC 350/350soon.
Thanks every one!

Check out The Longhorn Webite.
If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com
Andy, in Columbus Ohio

Maximum Overdrive · 03-25-2002, 10:04 PM

Drill a hole in the bolt insert a reverse threaded bolt and as you tighten it it should come off.

Scrub · 03-25-2002, 10:07 PM

It's probably a cast plug and going to be tough to weld to.

Can you make a slot in it with a hacksaw and turn the slot with something that resembles a giant screwdriver?

I don't know if this would work, but you might drill a hole through it and try an easy out. The shavings would scare me though. Put a magnet up against the drill bit and clean it a lot.

Good luck

------------------
Scrub
70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles
72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends.

lofly'a · 03-25-2002, 10:07 PM

don't even bother with the filler hole. take the rear cover off and put a drain plug in it to refill the rearend with. buy a universal drain plug kit from parts store, or take the cover off, drill the hole at the same height as the fill plug, weld or have a nut welded to the inside and use a engine oil pan plug. if you don't have access to a welder, the universal kind needs no welding.

------------------
keep fly'in lo
66 gto ragtop 389/400
72 blazer (wuza4by)
68 swb fleet 350/700
98 tahoe 2dr (daily ride)

dropped72shortbed · 03-25-2002, 10:23 PM

that sounds like a good idea lofly'a

do they make diff covers with a bolt up top to refill? or would i have to buy a kit to put the plug into the diff cover?

id imagine if i find any cover with one of these plugs its going to be a drain plug not a fill plug

CoryM · 03-25-2002, 10:35 PM

You try a nice sharp pair of Vice grips? Be amazed at what you can get a bite on. If you do make another filler hole make sure its not gonna interfere with the gears, they are pretty close to the cover in the middle.
Have fun.
CoryM

------------------
1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada
http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070

"Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high."
Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army

*Gee_Emm* · 03-25-2002, 10:50 PM

Try turning it using the hammer and chisel method

------------------
1969 Chevrolet Custom Camper 20 350/400 70k original miles

They have the Internet on Computers now? --Homer Simpson

Gee_Emm's Page

Help me get my truck on a soda bottle!!!!!

Southpa · 03-26-2002, 01:05 AM

Find a large Allen key thats a little bigger than the hole and hammer it in tight. Then applying a little heat while tapping might work. So far everyone's suggestions sound good.

------------------
Southpa
1970 GMC 1500 Custom
Victoria, BC, Canada

*Fast68Chevy* · 03-26-2002, 12:55 PM

the plug wil be steel not being able to weld to it is not an issue, i like the weld a bolt to it method, that would work well if you can get a ohld of a welder, or the fill plug in cover idea, but place it away from the ring gear part of the cover, could weld a nut to inside the cover to screw short bolt into or an oil pan drain bolt.

good luck

------------------
-71/C-10(thx teeitup and crews!)350 4+4/CH465(thx 71Chev, GMCPaul, and CPNE)longfleet bed(thnx meathead95)!still building it-
-'84 Z28(Z28) 1G1AP87GXEL100000 with H.O. 305/4bbl/190net/hp(L69) 3.73 rear(GT4/YC4) 700R4(MD8-MXO) & other goodies

Beast388 · 03-26-2002, 01:50 PM

the square hole in my 12 bolt filler plug isn't square anymore either. I have had no problems using a big pair of vicegrips. You have to clamp it pretty tight but it works.

------------------
71 GMC Suburban 4X4
The "Beast"
388 CID Stroker, Scat crank, H-beam steel rods, KB Pistons, Speed-Pro Moly Rings, Clevite bearings, Speed-Pro High Volume oil-pump, Comp Cams 254H 4X4 Xtreme cam, SR Torquer 2.02/1.60 heads, Comp springs, Trick Flow pushrods, Comp Roller Rockers, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 3310 750cfm Holley, Summit HEI, MSD 6AL, Built TH350 Transcat Supper II shift kit 2000 RPM Stall, 4" Rough Country Lift....etc.

**COBALT** · 03-26-2002, 04:38 PM

First thing I'd do is dump the cover. Screw it. Take it off. Give you a good opportunity to inspect that carrier. Trying to do that under the truck is BS. No room to work.

Second, set it on a junky work table, and put some lag screws through a couple of the bolt holes on each side. Get a hammer, tap the plug a couple of times, and use some vice grips to get it off. Get on top of it to get some leverage.
Use a chisel next if vice grips don't work. Use a big set of plumber's vice grips maybe. If that fails then I'd try grinding a thick slot in it, and then use an old file as a lever (the long side) to turn it out. That works like a charm on wide bolts and caps on steel plumbing that have been rounded off from monkey wrenches. Speaking of...use one of those! Try drilling a hole and using a large ease-out and a socket wrench.

Could be that the filler plug itself is stripped, and the threads in the cover are stripped as well. I bet it got rounded when they were putting it in last! If that's the case go to a junk yard and get a new cover. Either way its easier with the cover off. Since I don't have a welder either this is what I'd do.

You can get new plugs easy. I got mine at Chevy Duty for about $1 when I was ordering other stuff a few months ago.

------------------
'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed!
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast).
Seattle, WA.

*See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com!

lofly'a · 03-26-2002, 06:28 PM

i'd still leave the plug alone, it's only for filling diff., and no, they aren't available with the plug to fill, only to drain. just measure the height of the fluid level and add a universal drain plug to use for filling. it requires no welding, all you need is a drill to install, and end your pains.

------------------
keep fly'in lo
66 gto ragtop 389/400
72 blazer (wuza4by)
68 swb fleet 350/700
98 tahoe 2dr (daily ride)

03-25-2002, 09:44 PM	#1
dropped72shortbed Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Posts: 303	how the hell do i get the filler bolt off my 12 bolt?? the bolt that goes into my rear end is kinda stripped out. it used to be a 3/8 drive hole but now its kinda circular. best way to get this bolt out? i can get a set of vice grips around in cause of the shape of the pumpkin, and the bolts round anyway so itll probably slip off. __________________ Blake A. - Huntington Beach CA 72 c10 swb 5/5 drop, 350/350, partialy shaved, soon to be 5/7 on 20s.

03-25-2002, 09:49 PM	#2
71402BB now thats a true COON DOG Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Franconia, NH Posts: 1,977	well this sounds like a stupid idea to me but what the heck I'll seggest anyway. got a cheap/junk pair of vise grips? you could always weld them on then hope like helt the bolt comes off then go down to napa and get a new plug for it!?! on second thought you better get that new plug first! LOL I hope someone has a better idea first but if all else fails you could try my way. ------------------ 71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's 72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!) 68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE with built 350 4-speed 4.11's and posi [This message has been edited by 71402BB (edited March 25, 2002).] __________________ current project 67 402BB stout th350 3.08's with a locker. Plan on tubs 18.5's out back! (thanks Burnsman!) 71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's ( was crushed by a tree, bed sold, motor pulled) was my first truck!... oh well... 72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!) 68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE work in progress, soon to have 250-I6 with a 3-speed on the tree 4.11's and posi ( currently sitting in back yard tarped awaiting time, $$$, and lots of love!) 67 1 TON- work truck 396 sm 420 4-speed, flat bed 4.57 gears "big red" (my first landscape truck, very rusty and crusty! but still gets the job done when needed!)

03-25-2002, 09:50 PM	#3
dropped72shortbed Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Posts: 303	good idea! oh wait.... i dont have a welder.... i drove by a pepboys and goodyear auto service center and asked if either of them could get it off for me, they both said no without even looking at it. __________________ Blake A. - Huntington Beach CA 72 c10 swb 5/5 drop, 350/350, partialy shaved, soon to be 5/7 on 20s.

03-25-2002, 09:51 PM	#4
Bo We Sell Truck Parts Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Greenville,Texas Posts: 421	Weld a bolt to the inside of the filler bolt and heat up around the filler bolt. Then replace the filler bolt with a new one. Just one way to do it. ------------------ '67 Chevy SWB 454/400 under construction covers one city block! __________________ '67 Chevy SWB 454/400 '97 Chevy Tahoe 4x4 '62 MG Midget

03-25-2002, 09:53 PM	#6
71402BB now thats a true COON DOG Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Franconia, NH Posts: 1,977	got a friend with a welder? or another board member thats pretty close by with one that would be willing to help you out? ------------------ 71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's 72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!) 68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE with built 350 4-speed 4.11's and posi __________________ current project 67 402BB stout th350 3.08's with a locker. Plan on tubs 18.5's out back! (thanks Burnsman!) 71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's ( was crushed by a tree, bed sold, motor pulled) was my first truck!... oh well... 72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!) 68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE work in progress, soon to have 250-I6 with a 3-speed on the tree 4.11's and posi ( currently sitting in back yard tarped awaiting time, $$$, and lots of love!) 67 1 TON- work truck 396 sm 420 4-speed, flat bed 4.57 gears "big red" (my first landscape truck, very rusty and crusty! but still gets the job done when needed!)

03-25-2002, 09:53 PM	#5
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Go to the junk yard, and get another cover. ------------------ '69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it. Need to pick up the one ton Longhorn with a PONTIAC 350/350soon. Thanks every one! Check out The Longhorn Webite. If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com Andy, in Columbus Ohio

03-25-2002, 09:55 PM	#7
71402BB now thats a true COON DOG Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Franconia, NH Posts: 1,977	don't forget lonhornmail it's a 12 bolt I'm pretty sure that the 12 bolts have the plug in the rear of the housing, or I'm just really confused??? ------------------ 71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's 72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!) 68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE with built 350 4-speed 4.11's and posi __________________ current project 67 402BB stout th350 3.08's with a locker. Plan on tubs 18.5's out back! (thanks Burnsman!) 71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's ( was crushed by a tree, bed sold, motor pulled) was my first truck!... oh well... 72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!) 68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE work in progress, soon to have 250-I6 with a 3-speed on the tree 4.11's and posi ( currently sitting in back yard tarped awaiting time, $$$, and lots of love!) 67 1 TON- work truck 396 sm 420 4-speed, flat bed 4.57 gears "big red" (my first landscape truck, very rusty and crusty! but still gets the job done when needed!)

03-25-2002, 09:58 PM	#8
67Blacksheep Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Ohio Posts: 135	Dropped- You could always try cutting or grinding it down to a square surface. Then use the vice grips. I use an air powered cut off wheel for shaping the old bolts when regular tools won't get them loose. Not a pretty way, but usually successful. Best of luck ------------------ 67 Chevy C20 LB Stepside, 350 4-bolt with goodies. __________________ '94 GMC Seirra Ext. Cab '67 Formula Firebird '89 GSX-R 750

03-25-2002, 10:03 PM	#9
dropped72shortbed Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Posts: 303	blacksheep, that sounds like the best bet. ive got an angle grinder, ill try cut it down into a square, not like i can make it anyworse. thanks. __________________ Blake A. - Huntington Beach CA 72 c10 swb 5/5 drop, 350/350, partialy shaved, soon to be 5/7 on 20s.

03-25-2002, 10:04 PM	#10
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	off...thanks. Speakin out my @ss again here. You talking about a dana? ------------------ '69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it. Need to pick up the one ton Longhorn with a PONTIAC 350/350soon. Thanks every one! Check out The Longhorn Webite. If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com Andy, in Columbus Ohio

03-25-2002, 10:04 PM	#11
Maximum Overdrive December 21, 2012 Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Black Eagle, Montana Posts: 1,633	Drill a hole in the bolt insert a reverse threaded bolt and as you tighten it it should come off. __________________ *"!Ama Sua, Ama Kjella, Ama Lllulla!"*

03-25-2002, 10:07 PM	#12
Scrub Collector of rusty Items Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Sisters,Oregon USA Posts: 731	It's probably a cast plug and going to be tough to weld to. Can you make a slot in it with a hacksaw and turn the slot with something that resembles a giant screwdriver? I don't know if this would work, but you might drill a hole through it and try an easy out. The shavings would scare me though. Put a magnet up against the drill bit and clean it a lot. Good luck ------------------ Scrub 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends. __________________ Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends.

03-25-2002, 10:07 PM	#13
lofly'a Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Alexandria, LA 71301 Posts: 1,451	don't even bother with the filler hole. take the rear cover off and put a drain plug in it to refill the rearend with. buy a universal drain plug kit from parts store, or take the cover off, drill the hole at the same height as the fill plug, weld or have a nut welded to the inside and use a engine oil pan plug. if you don't have access to a welder, the universal kind needs no welding. ------------------ keep fly'in lo 66 gto ragtop 389/400 72 blazer (wuza4by) 68 swb fleet 350/700 98 tahoe 2dr (daily ride) __________________ -02 avalanche (daily driver) -66 gto ragtop 389/400 (garage queen, hand-me-down from dad) -72 Tribute Trans Am (6.0LS/T56 6-speed) in progress -2003 YUKON (Wife's) -71 gmc swb fleet (current project, gonna shave everything, bags, stuff w/ 20's, gen III powertrain) -48 3100 SWB - 12/31/23 LONG TERM Project

03-25-2002, 10:23 PM	#14
dropped72shortbed Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Posts: 303	that sounds like a good idea lofly'a do they make diff covers with a bolt up top to refill? or would i have to buy a kit to put the plug into the diff cover? id imagine if i find any cover with one of these plugs its going to be a drain plug not a fill plug __________________ Blake A. - Huntington Beach CA 72 c10 swb 5/5 drop, 350/350, partialy shaved, soon to be 5/7 on 20s.

03-25-2002, 10:35 PM	#15
CoryM Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Surrey, B.C. , Canada Posts: 874	You try a nice sharp pair of Vice grips? Be amazed at what you can get a bite on. If you do make another filler hole make sure its not gonna interfere with the gears, they are pretty close to the cover in the middle. Have fun. CoryM ------------------ 1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070 "Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high." Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army __________________ 1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070 "Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high." Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army



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03-25-2002, 10:50 PM	#16
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	Try turning it using the hammer and chisel method ------------------ 1969 Chevrolet Custom Camper 20 350/400 70k original miles They have the Internet on Computers now? --Homer Simpson Gee_Emm's Page Help me get my truck on a soda bottle!!!!!

03-26-2002, 01:05 AM	#17
Southpa Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Victoria, BC, Canada Posts: 2,409	Find a large Allen key thats a little bigger than the hole and hammer it in tight. Then applying a little heat while tapping might work. So far everyone's suggestions sound good. ------------------ Southpa 1970 GMC 1500 Custom Victoria, BC, Canada __________________ 1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first.

03-26-2002, 12:55 PM	#18
Fast68Chevy Account Suspended Join Date: May 2000 Location: IL Posts: 0	the plug wil be steel not being able to weld to it is not an issue, i like the weld a bolt to it method, that would work well if you can get a ohld of a welder, or the fill plug in cover idea, but place it away from the ring gear part of the cover, could weld a nut to inside the cover to screw short bolt into or an oil pan drain bolt. good luck ------------------ -71/C-10(thx teeitup and crews!)350 4+4/CH465(thx 71Chev, GMCPaul, and CPNE)longfleet bed(thnx meathead95)!still building it- -'84 Z28(Z28) 1G1AP87GXEL100000 with H.O. 305/4bbl/190net/hp(L69) 3.73 rear(GT4/YC4) 700R4(MD8-MXO) & other goodies -79 G20 pass van, 350/th350/10bolt, paint is overrated Randy- Lincoln, IL r68c30@hotmail.com © RSS Enterprises 2000

03-26-2002, 01:50 PM	#19
Beast388 Suburbans RULE! Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clinton, IA 52732 Posts: 689	the square hole in my 12 bolt filler plug isn't square anymore either. I have had no problems using a big pair of vicegrips. You have to clamp it pretty tight but it works. ------------------ 71 GMC Suburban 4X4 The "Beast" 388 CID Stroker, Scat crank, H-beam steel rods, KB Pistons, Speed-Pro Moly Rings, Clevite bearings, Speed-Pro High Volume oil-pump, Comp Cams 254H 4X4 Xtreme cam, SR Torquer 2.02/1.60 heads, Comp springs, Trick Flow pushrods, Comp Roller Rockers, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 3310 750cfm Holley, Summit HEI, MSD 6AL, Built TH350 Transcat Supper II shift kit 2000 RPM Stall, 4" Rough Country Lift....etc. __________________ --Ben 71 GMC Suburban 4X4 The "Beast" 388 CID Stroker, TH350, NP205, 8-lug D44, 14BFF w/ Detroit, 4.10:1 gears, 4-Wheel Disks 4" Lift, 35" MT/R's.

03-26-2002, 04:38 PM	#20
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	First thing I'd do is dump the cover. Screw it. Take it off. Give you a good opportunity to inspect that carrier. Trying to do that under the truck is BS. No room to work. Second, set it on a junky work table, and put some lag screws through a couple of the bolt holes on each side. Get a hammer, tap the plug a couple of times, and use some vice grips to get it off. Get on top of it to get some leverage. Use a chisel next if vice grips don't work. Use a big set of plumber's vice grips maybe. If that fails then I'd try grinding a thick slot in it, and then use an old file as a lever (the long side) to turn it out. That works like a charm on wide bolts and caps on steel plumbing that have been rounded off from monkey wrenches. Speaking of...use one of those! Try drilling a hole and using a large ease-out and a socket wrench. Could be that the filler plug itself is stripped, and the threads in the cover are stripped as well. I bet it got rounded when they were putting it in last! If that's the case go to a junk yard and get a new cover. Either way its easier with the cover off. Since I don't have a welder either this is what I'd do. You can get new plugs easy. I got mine at Chevy Duty for about $1 when I was ordering other stuff a few months ago. ------------------ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed! '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast). Seattle, WA. *See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com! __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

03-26-2002, 06:28 PM	#21
lofly'a Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Alexandria, LA 71301 Posts: 1,451	i'd still leave the plug alone, it's only for filling diff., and no, they aren't available with the plug to fill, only to drain. just measure the height of the fluid level and add a universal drain plug to use for filling. it requires no welding, all you need is a drill to install, and end your pains. ------------------ keep fly'in lo 66 gto ragtop 389/400 72 blazer (wuza4by) 68 swb fleet 350/700 98 tahoe 2dr (daily ride) __________________ -02 avalanche (daily driver) -66 gto ragtop 389/400 (garage queen, hand-me-down from dad) -72 Tribute Trans Am (6.0LS/T56 6-speed) in progress -2003 YUKON (Wife's) -71 gmc swb fleet (current project, gonna shave everything, bags, stuff w/ 20's, gen III powertrain) -48 3100 SWB - 12/31/23 LONG TERM Project

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