First time with air bags....

[Tfish]

Hey guys, its winter time so I wanted to start working on the 64 and get some changes before next years good guys show. My final plans for the 64 can't get started just yet since I don't have near the money right now or the shop space but I wanted to do some little changes. I've been looking around a little bit and came across CPP's front and rear air bag kit and wanted to know what your thoughts were. I like the kit because it comes with all bolt on brackets, lower stroke shocks and require no welding (I'm still mastering the art and don't trust myself yet to work on key components).

I will just be running bags, no real plumbing just set the air pressure per bag and cap it. Is this a good route to go? any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

Tfish

[C4 Metal Werks]

Do this for $300.00 and support a vendor. Jason is a super cool guy.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=442745

[Tfish]

Sweet! I'll definitely check it out and send him a pm... looks like a good deal and a cheap way to change the look of my truck a little bit. The best part about this site is the connections between members!

[C4 Metal Werks]

Originally Posted by Tfish

Sweet! I'll definitely check it out and send him a pm... looks like a good deal and a cheap way to change the look of my truck a little bit. The best part about this site is the connections between members!

That's what I'm doing. Check out this mechanical switch set up
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320511185841...84.m1439.l2649

and a slow but cheap compressor tank set up.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VAR-10002/

[kieth]

You do not need the compressor to start with, nor will it cost $300.00 to do air bags in the rear, If you already have trailing arms with coil springs this is how I would do it, (I just went through a lot of changes due to my own ignorance.)

1. Use firestone 9000 series air bags or equivalent. depending on the height you want to run, you may or may not need brackets for the bags. The bottom of the 9000 can be bolted directly to the trailing arm with one bolt, the upper portion of the bag can be bolted directly to the frame by drilling 2 bolt holes through the flange, make sure the air supply hole on the top of the bag clears the frame flange. (plan on running this setup at 8 to 8.5" when driving and 4.5" when aired out. run 1 airline to a t and then to 1 scharader valve (valve stem that is mounted at the rear of the truck) This is a simple ride height control and means you have to have a compressor around to air the bags up, but if you have everything tight it will not loose much air. Now you can play with the ride height, see how everything works, balance the stance of your truck as you make changes to the front.

I think this will cost you around $200.00 with hoses, fittings, and bags....Add the compressor later as you can afford it. Call me if you would like to talk about it. Kieth 918-446-2245

I do not sell or endorse anyones products if I have not used them.

[chad64chevy]

the $300 for the front and rear kit jason sells is a good kit, plus his a board member! jasons kit comes with front and rear brackets also! and doing it kieth way you still need the brackets! you might need brackets for the back but you will for the front! and jasons kit is complete, i'll be buying his rear bag set-up soon!

[theastronaut]

I bought the schrader valve kit from Jason at AVS for my '66. Nice brackets and good quality valves (not pictured). I'll use the valves to get it pumped up and rolling for now and install valves/tank/compressor later on. Definitly a great kit for getting into air ride.

BTW, be sure to check the front cups; they may need slight trimming to get them to sit snugly in the spring cup.

[kieth]

I did not realize it was for the front and the rear, That is a great deal. but I will say that you really do not need that large a bag on the rear unless you are going to pull a boat or haul large loads, ........Kieth

The problem in the rear is trying to get the bag to operate in the 40 to 50 psi area and in the correct ride height for that pressure. The 7" 8" bags only need 20 psi & on my truck and that is just a little too soft. The 9000 series bag is smaller in diameter and makes the operating pressures higher which are needed for good ride control. JMO Kieth

[T Smith]

Slam 7's front and 7's or 6's in the rear are a good set up...

[Tfish]

Kieth you bring up a good point, the only variable I have control of is the amount of air I put in each bag. This dictates ride height obviously but also sets how hard or soft the bag is and how it responds while driving. I might have to experiment with a few bags before its to my liking but for now the bags from Jason at AVS would be a good start.

Keep in mind my truck is all original with an inline 6 and 3 on the tree... 55-60mph seems to push the envelope so for a while it's strictly a slow cruiser.

Anyone else have experience with different bags for the rear vs front that wouldn't mind shedding some light on the subject or express your results?

I really appreciate all the info so far guys!! This really helps me and hopefully others that are just diving into this area of customs

Tfish
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[theastronaut]

That's a good point on the larger sized rear air bags. I'm planning on installing a trailer hitch and bracing the snot out of my C notches (I'm aware they really weaken the frame) so that I can be able to actually use the truck to tow, and still have it lowered. I didn't want 5" or 7" dropped springs since the general consensus is that they won't carry much of a load; that's why I decided on using air bags to begin with- being low and being able to tow.

How much would relocated nitrogen/gas shocks and a rear sway bar help with the "soft" rear on an unloaded truck with large/low pressure air bags? These are both mods that I'll be doing on my '66 anyways, hoping that I'll be fine with firmer shocks and a sway bar. I'll also be controlling each corner individually (not just front/back) so no air will be able to transfer side to side when turning.

I also havn't decided on a final ride hight for the rear, and haven't decided if I'll be using the rear mounting cups or not. I think I can set the pressure/bag extended height I need to be at when at ride height, and then use the cups to set the actual ride height by trimming the cups to achieve the desired height. The cups are about 4" tall so that gives me some room to adjust the ride height without changing the pressure in the bags. Does this make sense or am I not thinking straight again?

[idreama300]

Does anyone have pictures of this set-up aired out?

[Tfish]

Originally Posted by idreama300

Does anyone have pictures of this set-up aired out?

I would be interested to see this too! I have no doubts it's a good kit but pics would definitely let me see what I'm getting into.
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[protrash64]

I have my 64 'burb bagged. Some things I did and changed are on my thread in the sig. First, I'd never done bags and just jumped in and talked to some people and started formulating what I wanted. I learned 1/2'' line is big and blasts a ton of pressure into the bags very fast!! You really dont need that in the rear as these trucks are light and it will throw you out of the seat. I only run at 150psi...no need for more unless you want to hop the damn thing. Longer lines to the bags will mellow the control; short lines make them react quickly. Centrally locating your valves will give the best overall control IMO. I re-ran my rear lines in 3/8ths and went with a larger bag and its very smooth and mellow. I used re7 bags all around and then went with re8's in the rear. The 8's barely clear the shocks IIRC.

Look for the cfm of your compressors for comparison and use two. Faster fill and less work for each compressor. Big tanks or two tanks are nice. I downsized my tank and the front airlines and bags eat the whole tank, 5gal I believe. I wanted fast fill as Im impatient to go once Im sitting in the truck with it running.

Yes, you can trim those front cups for lower profile up front but make sure the bag does not rub.

[SCOTI]

How much drop you desire should also be a consideration when choosing your bags. What drop are you targeting (ride height & dumped)?

[Tfish]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

How much drop you desire should also be a consideration when choosing your bags. What drop are you targeting (ride height & dumped)?

I'm looking for maximum drop with minimal work. For as low as I want to go (for now) ill have to buy shorter shocks to allow full suspension articulation while lowered. For the rear I would like the axle almost resting on the frame. I'm not ready to do a c-notch and haven't quite mapped out my final plan but I want to switch it up and have a little fun with the truck for next year.

I already have a ton of onboard air parts left over from my jeep (tank, manifold, pressure switch, gauges, moisture filter, and 12v compressor). This would just be a stepping stone into air suspension for me.

I'm hoping for around 4" drop up front and close to 5" drop in the rear or the most the current suspension will allow.

Tfish
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[protrash64]

Tfish...you can remove your factory stop as it hits the top of the u-bolts on the rear axle. I added a bumpstop under the frame above the axle to get as low as possible without notching the frame.

[sharkskinman]

Bump!!

Good thread!
I have a stock 65 250 short box stepside
No suspension mods yet
Using SS7s and possibly SS8s dont know front or back yet
I will do a bolt in C notch first
But want a descent ride Now
Looking at gauges now and thinking the same thing a 200 gauge would be harder to read slight differences
As a lower gauge would make it easier

The slam bags (SS7) says 9.3" (SS8 10.3") of travel but I think the guy said 5-7" usual ride height extension

What kind of pressure will that take? Front? Rear?
At stock would it be better to use rear spring position?
Stock height cups for the front?( like bolt on front mounts?

Thought of 8s in front and 7s in rear so more of an even ride height? Im I looking at that wrong?

Please answer more on this topic as it seems alot of these topics just end without a clear answer