Where to start?

[McNugget]

Hello all!
I started a project that is a 1972 Chevy 4x4. It's a full truck on the frame, but its an empty shell right now. I truly don't have much money, like everyone else, but I have no idea where to start. I know I need a motor of course, but I wondered if it would be better to start buying the small things like a radiator and such. I have never built a truck before, so I'm new and scared! please help with any suggestions?!

[Wootdog]

I am no expert, but I would start with the body and frame. You can buy a engine and transmission when they are needed. I would do the body work first. Then all the bolt on's would come later. My two cents.
Kerry

[1low]

Are u going for a restoration or just get it runing if we now your goal you will prob get more advice

[ItsRandy]

Cleaning and painting stuff is less expensive than buying parts. Body work isn't very expensive if you do it yourself, providing you have tools to work with. Are you trying to get the truck to run so you can drive it or do you want to restore it?

[Shyguy]

First decide what you want to do with your truck when it is finished, this will determine a lot what you do and in what order.

Gathering parts are a good thing, especially if you are able to get them reasonable. Used parts are ok when they are in good condition and usually fit better than repo parts.

Look over what you have real well and make a list of what you need. Brake work should be a priority over worrying about an engine and transmission. Manual and automatic transmissions require different cross members.

No matter what way you decide to go make sure to post any questions as you go on your build because there are a lot of very knowledgeable people on here that are happy to help. I have learned and continue to learn from them.

[domeier]

I'd say you should start by buying another truck that has all its bits and pieces. You'll get nickel and dimed to death buying one part at a time.

[RenoKeene]

Yep. Your going to need a parts truck!

[71sierragrande]

If you have another vehicle, do all the body and paint work while the engine/trans is out of it. Much easier to detail the engine bay with it empty. And maybe more money will be available after that for drivetrain. Plus u have some deciding to do, so it will also give you time for that. If you need the truck immediately, everything I just said is nonsense.

[CC69Rat]

Figure out your budget, .. now double it and have fun

It just depends where you want to go with it, what you'd like to end up with in my opinion. If you're doing a bagged show stopping slick as glass truck with leather custom interior and full suspension upgrades, big brakes, etc. You'll be fine with a cab and frame type project (you have to buy everything anyway)

If you're after a driver you can take to swap meets, etc. I agree, you may be better off finding an old man's truck and drop it, throw some wheels and good sounding exhaust and drive it, fixing up little stuff along the way.

['68 C-20]

Yup, find a donor truck, or trucks, You might have to go through a few to get everything. Best bang for your buck with the Donors that is when you remove parts from the donor you learn how the trucks are put together, and you don't havta' put it back together!

What I do is to take it one part at a time, say maybe, front fender, inner and outer. That will let you see into the front cab corners, etc., Clean treat for rust, prime and paint, put it back together, and then move the other side. Beats taking a whole truck apart and then getting overwhelmed at all the parts and pieces. Not to mention the parts you loose. Having most of the truck intact at any point in time makes it easy to move about and will be better tolerated by those who do not understand the finer aspects of truck ownership.

Get yourself the Chevrolet Truck Chassis Overhaul Manual, (ST 133-68), and then have fun.

[ChevLoRay]

As suggested, you need to plan your work by knowing what you intend for your truck to be...show or driver.

Until you are ready for an engine/transmission, they will just be in the way as you work on the rest of it. If you have room, strip it down to the chassis and start from the "bottom" and work your way up.

Whatever you decide to do, invest in a generous supply of freezer bags and magic markers and label everything you remove....AS YOU REMOVE IT!!!! It's very easy to get confused about what "this" is and where "that" goes, when it is in a box, or a can....or laying on the workbench or inside the cab or on the floor of the bed.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by McNugget

Hello all!
I started a project that is a 1972 Chevy 4x4. It's a full truck on the frame, but its an empty shell right now. I truly don't have much money, like everyone else, but I have no idea where to start. I know I need a motor of course, but I wondered if it would be better to start buying the small things like a radiator and such. I have never built a truck before, so I'm new and scared! please help with any suggestions?!

Originally Posted by Shyguy

snip

Manual and automatic transmissions require different cross members.

snip

No offense to shyguy but on a 1972 4x4, the crossmember under the transfer case adapter is the same for all factory configurations, manual or automatic.
GM made up for all the differences in the length of one transmission verses another by having a longer or shorter transfer case adapter. The adapter is the piece that holds the drive sleeve which is what couples the transmission output to the transfer case input. They also made all the 4x4 driveshafts the same length. So if you are switching from a 3-speed manual factory configuration to a 4-speed manual factory configuration you use the same driveshafts and crossmember. The transmission, adapter, and transfer case are changed. Same when switching from a manual to a th350. You swap out tranny, adapter, and t-case and use the same crossmember and driveshafts. I have personally done this swap and can attest to this fact.

I don't know why but GM had two different input shafts on the factory t-cases. ALL t-cases originally behind a manual tranny have a 10-spline input shaft. The t-case the General put in behind a th350 has a 28 spline input shaft which matches the 28-spline output of the stock th350.

Now after swapping to a th350 and having to drive that rig on the highway I wish I would have put a 700r4 in there. The highway rpms are bad when going 70-80mph in rush hour traffic with a th350 and 3.73 gears in the differential. If you have 3.08s perhaps a th350 will be ok. If you have 4.11s FORGET about a non-overdrive tranny if you ever want to venture out on an interstate highway.

GM never built a 1972 4x4 with a 700r4 but if you start with a th350/adapter/t-case (factory option) and build up a 7004r for a 4x4 (no tail shaft) it will bolt to the th350 adapter but is longer. I haven't done it yet but folks that have done this swap have moved the engine forward the 1-2 inches the 700r4 is longer than the stock th350. This moves the engine closer if not exactly to where it is in a stock 2wd configuration.

I hope this helps.

[ChevLoRay]

Oh, check out the projects and builds forum. You'll find a buttload of trucks that folks are doing, or have done, that will be an inspiration. As to what to do first, there's still a bunch of us who keep asking or wondering about what we've done and if it was right, or not.

[Shyguy]

Originally Posted by mrein3

No offense to shyguy but on a 1972 4x4, the crossmember under the transfer case adapter is the same for all factory configurations, manual or automatic.
GM made up for all the differences in the length of one transmission verses another by having a longer or shorter transfer case adapter. The adapter is the piece that holds the drive sleeve which is what couples the transmission output to the transfer case input. They also made all the 4x4 driveshafts the same length. So if you are switching from a 3-speed manual factory configuration to a 4-speed manual factory configuration you use the same driveshafts and crossmember. The transmission, adapter, and transfer case are changed. Same when switching from a manual to a th350. You swap out tranny, adapter, and t-case and use the same crossmember and driveshafts. I have personally done this swap and can attest to this fact.

I don't know why but GM had two different input shafts on the factory t-cases. ALL t-cases originally behind a manual tranny have a 10-spline input shaft. The t-case the General put in behind a th350 has a 28 spline input shaft which matches the 28-spline output of the stock th350.

Now after swapping to a th350 and having to drive that rig on the highway I wish I would have put a 700r4 in there. The highway rpms are bad when going 70-80mph in rush hour traffic with a th350 and 3.73 gears in the differential. If you have 3.08s perhaps a th350 will be ok. If you have 4.11s FORGET about a non-overdrive tranny if you ever want to venture out on an interstate highway.

GM never built a 1972 4x4 with a 700r4 but if you start with a th350/adapter/t-case (factory option) and build up a 7004r for a 4x4 (no tail shaft) it will bolt to the th350 adapter but is longer. I haven't done it yet but folks that have done this swap have moved the engine forward the 1-2 inches the 700r4 is longer than the stock th350. This moves the engine closer if not exactly to where it is in a stock 2wd configuration.

I hope this helps.

Thank you for the information for the location of the cross member. Some day I hope to have a '72 4X4 and you comments are really helpful.