Stroker Engine

[Gyawo]

I am looking at what all I need to build a 383 stroker for my 86 K5 and wondering if I should bother, just interested in all of your wonderful opinions. I have some '97 vortec cyl. heads, the 062 castings, I will be getting an Edlebrock Performer EPS #2716 intake. The block is a 3970014 (T1012CMR) casting, 2 bolt main, it has possibly been bored .030 already, need to mic it to make sure. The kit I am thinking of getting is the Eagle Rods B13404E, retail $748, which is an externally balanced kit.

Looking for feedback if anyone has used that kit, or a similar one, and if not then what did you use? Thanks everyone.

[gearheads78]

There is what looks to be nice one in the classified section here ready to go. I don't know the owner or anything about it other than what listed.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=481261

[Gyawo]

He wants pick up only, and I plan on spending much less than 4g's, plus shipping if he would consider it, on the engine. So far I am 98 dollars into it, which was for the cylinder heads. This will be as much of a budget build as possible.

[gearheads78]

I bought one of those "balanced kits" several years back. The balance job was terrible so be prepared to have it balanced right.

[Gyawo]

Was it an internally or externally balanced kit though?

[BigBlocksRule]

Pass on the Eagle stuff, they still don't have their clearance issues sorted out - I helped a buddy mock up one about a month ago. Crank needed to be touched-up and 2 of the rods were too small on the big end. Balance was about as good as GM did at the factory, which ain't saying much.
Scat makes a good nodular iron crank and their 3/8" capscrew rods are great bang for the buck. Speed Pro pistons and rings and some Clevite bearings and you're good to go.
Buy 'em separately and let your local guy balance 'em. Don't worry about internal vs external balance, it's not worth worrying about at this level.
If it were me, I'd sell the 2-bolt block and find a good 4-bolt. Get that K-5 in trouble and you may need to beat on it to get out, the 4-bolt will stand up to more than the 2-bolt. Might be the difference between getting home and being stranded, between an engine that lives versus one that doesn't.

[Hotrodrobert]

I built my first engine in 1960 and done too many to count. Street and most race apps have NEVER seen a real issue with 2 bolt mains. If you get high RPMs, like over 7K, I would want a 4 bolt block (except 400SBC).
Scat and Eagle make some good parts and if you buy a kit, the total parts bill will usually be less. Summit, Jegs, and Ohio Crankshaft have been good sources for me.
For a truck motor, read TORQUE, keep the compression ratio down to less than 10:1, I would go about 9:1 or a little less to be able to use regular pump gas effectively. Don't go too big on the cam, like most people do. Remember the bigger the cam, the less torque you will have at lower RPMs.
Remember that a chain is only as strong as the weakest link, so don't cheap out on ANYTHING, but you don't have to use expensive parts that are not really needed either.
No matter what, be sure to check everything as everyone makes mistakes.
I would not go over .040 over on that block, so check carefully before you do machine work or buy parts.

[BigBlocksRule]

I've built more than a handful myself. I've seen plenty of cap walk and chatter from higher revving engines, but can't argue that 2-bolt blocks are great for the majority of builds. All the K-5's I've run were in the back woods, etc. and get beat on pretty hard. Most shops will swap a 2 bolt for a 4 bolt for a hundred bucks or so. I think that's a cheap investment for a better block. The extra stroke certainly puts higher stresses on internals, I'd play it safe.
The caps and registers on 2-bolt 350's are way different than a 400 or big block. The extra cap/register contact area helps, but the biggest improvement with a 4-bolt block versus 2-bolt is how well it handles the angled load as the piston pushes downward on the power stroke. In simple terms, it's like having a brace on the back side of the cap.

I have a couple of 2-bolt engines running in my stuff right now. Daily driver, street driven stuff, I have no problem with it. Out in the sticks, miles from help, with my foot on the floor is a different ballgame altogether...

[Moostifer]

Originally Posted by Hotrodrobert

I built my first engine in 1960 and done too many to count. Street and most race apps have NEVER seen a real issue with 2 bolt mains. If you get high RPMs, like over 7K, I would want a 4 bolt block (except 400SBC).
Scat and Eagle make some good parts and if you buy a kit, the total parts bill will usually be less. Summit, Jegs, and Ohio Crankshaft have been good sources for me.
For a truck motor, read TORQUE, keep the compression ratio down to less than 10:1, I would go about 9:1 or a little less to be able to use regular pump gas effectively. Don't go too big on the cam, like most people do. Remember the bigger the cam, the less torque you will have at lower RPMs.
Remember that a chain is only as strong as the weakest link, so don't cheap out on ANYTHING, but you don't have to use expensive parts that are not really needed either.
No matter what, be sure to check everything as everyone makes mistakes.
I would not go over .040 over on that block, so check carefully before you do machine work or buy parts.

listen to this guy! very sound advise! (no, I do not know him)

[Moostifer]

and if you're concerned about the 2 bolt vs 4 bolt, don't be, unless you plan on turning that engine constantly to VERY high rpms. But, if you think you just have to have a 4 bolt, have your machine shop splay a 2 bolt.

and to your original question... unless you're using this engine for compitition purposes, why bother with the added costs of a stroker kit? (jmo)

[BigBlocksRule]

No need for splayed for anything other than racing, a stock 4-bolt is fine.

[pockets]

I got a 383 rotating kit from summit, used eagle rods, arp cap bolts, speed pro hypereutetic pistons with floating pins, etc. complete with flexplate and balancer for 750-800 or so if I recall. I checked all the clearances and they were spot on.

Did the block clearancing myself, and with the cap bolts instead of regular old bolts/nuts it was pretty simple.

[pockets]

As for the cam and all that, most people do go too big. Mine is an XE274 flat tappet. I spent the money on the heads (afr 195cc, 64cc chambers) instead of a roller cam. My compression calcs out to just over 10.75:1 and I ran several hundred miles on 87 octane with no pinging and it runs consistently at 188* with the stock radiator. The engine did tend to diesel on shutdown however, but with 91 octane it doesn't do that. The cam has a very noticeable idle. If have a couple videos if you want to hear it.

It pulls plenty of vacuum at idle for my power brakes and while it ran ok with a stock converter in a 700r4, it is much better with the 2500 stall in it. All completely streetable. The same engine, minus my bigger carb, made 480hp/500lbs in a magazine build last year, so it is no slouch. the 355 version of the same engine did 440hp.

[Moostifer]

Originally Posted by BigBlocksRule

No need for splayed for anything other than racing, a stock 4-bolt is fine.

I'll take a studded 2 bolt over a stock 4 bolt any day (personal preference).

[Gyawo]

I wouldn't mind seeing a video pockets.

I am not worried about it being a 2 bolt, if I was I would have already pawned it off for a 4. This is my winter beater, all I want is something reliable, and with some jam in case I feel like power sliding around a few corners... The cam is going to be the last thing I buy, just so I get the right one. Been considering an RV cam, but my snap on dealer has one that he likes and is going to get me the part number to check out.

I will have to check out Ohio, Scat and Summit and see what they have for kits.

and to your original question... unless you're using this engine for compitition purposes, why bother with the added costs of a stroker kit? (imo)

The engine needs a new crank, and possibly over sized pistons to begin with, so stroker kinda makes sense, only a few extra bucks than getting all stock stuff if it have already been bored .030, plus 383 just sounds soooooo much better.

[jrcaprai]

I have bought a couple of kits from CNC-Motorsports... 383 and a 408...

With the Iron heads this kit would be perfect... and it is not horribly expensive.

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...185&CtgID=9002

I have heard a few bad things about Ohio...

[Hotrodrobert]

What kind of driving do expect to do with this truck? This will help determine just what you need.
THE most important thing to do is honestly determine just what you want to do then make a PACKAGE that is consistent throughout and within your budget then
stick to the plan.

[pockets]

Originally Posted by Gyawo

I wouldn't mind seeing a video pockets.

I am not worried about it being a 2 bolt, if I was I would have already pawned it off for a 4. This is my winter beater, all I want is something reliable, and with some jam in case I feel like power sliding around a few corners... The cam is going to be the last thing I buy, just so I get the right one. Been considering an RV cam, but my snap on dealer has one that he likes and is going to get me the part number to check out.

I will have to check out Ohio, Scat and Summit and see what they have for kits.

The engine needs a new crank, and possibly over sized pistons to begin with, so stroker kinda makes sense, only a few extra bucks than getting all stock stuff if it have already been bored .030, plus 383 just sounds soooooo much better.

Here you go:

383 with ProSystems carb - YouTube

at about 1:42 or so I put it in gear and the rpm is ~800. in park it was around 1k. Like most videos it doesn't quite do it justice, but if you have decent speakers or a decent headphones it will make a difference. The mufflers are Spintech super pro street 9000's. 3" exhaust with an X pipe.

[85Bowtie]

I've heard that 4 bolt mains aren't actually as strong as a 2 bolt because of the smaller area to engage the bolts to the block.

As far as CR, you can easily run 10-10.5:1 on pump gas if you decide to switch to aluminum heads and use a quench piston.

[Gyawo]

Sounds good, even with ****ty laptop speakers.

This vehicle is going to be my transportation from home to work and then in January, home to the bus stop and then the bus goes to NAIT. I wouldn't mind going on a long distance trip, go snowboarding in the mountains or something, so it has to be reliable.

With pretty much all the kits I have looked at, with the 64cc heads I have, it is coming out to pretty 10:1. I can always retard the timing a touch though and cheat a little, rather than buying low compression pistions.

[Hotrodrobert]

Originally Posted by 85Bowtie

I've heard that 4 bolt mains aren't actually as strong as a 2 bolt because of the smaller area to engage the bolts to the block.

As far as CR, you can easily run 10-10.5:1 on pump gas if you decide to switch to aluminum heads and use a quench piston.

The 400 blocks have different main webbing so the 2 bolt blocks are stronger than the 2 bolt. Other SBC are not the same.
I have run several SBC 400 and others with studs and made pretty good hp with no issues but all of these had operating ranges less than 7k. Splayed bolts give a lot more support than the straight outer bolts because of the direction of load and the location of the holes.
You are correct about the CR. The Vortech heads have very good chambers if the quench is tight enough, but 9 is the ragged edge to properly and efficiently run 87 octane. I see it all the time that people run a lot more compression than that but if you check, they run very low timing, cold intake air, too rich mixtures, etc. Correct tuning gives better performance and mileage with a given cr and octane fuel. Octane, after all, is the tolerance for compression in a fuel.