Need some suspension advice on 71 suburban.

[gumbys10]

Well I picked up a new to me 71 Chevrolet suburban off of a member here. It is a decent driver, with lowering springs and spindles and air shocks. Most of the suspension joints are worn out, and make some interesting noises. Not bad considering it made the 4500km trip from there to my home here problem free.

My first order of business is changing the transmission to a 700r4, or swapping in a built 5.3 and 4l60e I have, depends on time issues. First I want to install a new trailing arm member as similar to the one in the brothers catalog so I can run the exhaust through the frame, instead of under and gain much needed ground clearance as it currently scrapes on our rough roads.

So next I would like to tighten things up and install a bolt on watts link if I can find such an item, with minimal fab work as I have enough projects on the go and want to keep this unit down time to a few weeks in march. I also want to upgrade the front sway bar and install a rear one. The reason for the watts link is to keep the rear end centred as I like to cruise low and want the tire clearance to stay the same through the suspension travel.

I want to handle decent, as I plan on putting allot of mile on this unit, and a fair bit will be towing my 23 foot airstream, so I am fairly sold on putting a art e3 ride height control system with bags and just a c notch on the rear. I love the rocker on the ground stance in shows, but on this truck it is not practical because I need all 3 rows of seats and floor space for the dog kennel (german shepherd/rottweiler cross) and gear. I want steady predictable handling and reliability, I am not afraid to spend money wisely, but there is a serious budget as I have other projects eating at the wallet, and have to restore the airstream while we use it. So I am looking for advice on set ups, cheaper, looks good when cleaned and painted, reliable and safe.

I have looked at the porterbuilt, but I do not need to go that low. It would be nice to see the stance of a truck or suburban from 67-72 with bags, c notch and drop spindles so I could get an idea of the stance. This is sort of my parts list ideas. Correct or make suggestions or place to get such items.

Replace all bushings, ball joints,tie rods ect, moog or like wise.
Front and rear bags.
4 adjustable art shocks.
front art sway bar
art e3 controller and ride height kit, probably compressor and tank kit as well
Rear sway bar?
trailing arm bracket from brothers
watts link, bolt on if possible.
Rear disc conversion and front disc upgrade probably next winter.
Most likely 18x8 and 18x10 ttII's or similar on 245/45 18 and 295 35 or 40 18
or 20x8.5 and 20x10.5 centerline smoothy's on 255/35/20 and 295 30/20 tires.
It would also be nice to still be able to run 15's if I decide to change the look up every now and then.

Now where the real questions concern me, do I go with a complete dropmember kit and rack and pinion steering, or go with art strong arms?
Do I use the stock trailing arms or go for the tubular?
The factory ride of these trucks in good condition and tight is what I really am sort of looking for, but more of a slammed stance, and less sway. Any help would be taken into consideration.

This is the suburban, I like the front height for cruising, but would like the back lower.

[SCOTI]

....First I want to install a new trailing arm member as similar to the one in the brothers catalog so I can run the exhaust through the frame, instead of under and gain much needed ground clearance as it currently scrapes on our rough roads.

Brothers x-member = $229 & is non adjustable.
ECE'x x-member = $209 & is non adjustable.
Porterbuilts x-member = $249 & is adjustable in both pinion & wheelbase.

All 3 allow up to 3" exhaust above the lower frame rail lip.

So next I would like to tighten things up and install a bolt on watts link if I can find such an item, with minimal fab work as I have enough projects on the go and want to keep this unit down time to a few weeks in march. I also want to upgrade the front sway bar and install a rear one. The reason for the watts link is to keep the rear end centred as I like to cruise low and want the tire clearance to stay the same through the suspension travel.

A long Panhard bar (frame rail to opposite end of rear end) will keep the rear centered well enough @ ride height. It won't do as well as a Watts from full extension to full compression but is it worth the effort to fab/install for something that's not needed all the time? Closest unit I know of off-hand that might be the easiest install is from KP Components (an C.Alston company) but it will still require fabbing. It's also going to add complexity when routing exhaust. Porterbuilt & No Limits offer some nice rear Panhard bar packages.

Now where the real questions concern me, do I go with a complete dropmember kit and rack and pinion steering, or go with art strong arms?
Do I use the stock trailing arms or go for the tubular?
The factory ride of these trucks in good condition and tight is what I really am sort of looking for, but more of a slammed stance, and less sway. Any help would be taken into consideration.

If you don't plan to get that low, there's no 'need' for a Dropmember. And since you mentioned Porterbuilts Dropmember specifically, he also offers front & rear parts for 'mild' builds. PB's a-arms feature a Delrin type bushing for no-bind movement & near zero deflection.

Of course, Ride techs stuff is always nice too.... Combine either w/No Limits R&P set-up & I'm betting you'd get what you're seeking. Stock truck arms will get the job done & are budget friendly, but Porterbuilts truck arms offer better rigidity & articulation which goes toward your goal of less sway.