Manual Throttle

[DnvrJay71]

Anyone know where I could find one?
Out here in the rocky mountains the air gets pretty thin. I've found myself on a steep grade and switching over to clutch and brake when *chough**chug.... the engine bogs out. so now I'm stuck w one foot on the brake... one foot on the clutch (and a broken e-brake) I need to be able to keep the engine revving a little higher in altitude like this and thought I'd seen a manual throttle assembly on these.
Have any of you all dealt w this issue?

[Ole Beater]

If you are running a carb I think that probably has more to do with it being flooded or starved at too steep of an angle. Edelbrocks are the worst at that.

[71swb4x4]

Like I mentioned in your other thread, post a wanted to buy in the parts board. You need to be a member to post WTB threads, but it's only $15 for 6 months or $25 for a year, well worth it.
If you don't want to pay to become a member then go to the parts board and search for a manual throttle.

Give me a minute I will see what I can find.

[71swb4x4]

All the posts I found on the parts board were sold.

You should post a WTB (Want to Buy) thread on the parts board.

[fun in dirt]

Hit the junkyards & look in some 1-2.5 ton trucks & such. Alot of them with PTO driven stuff (winches, dump beds) had manual throttles.

[DANTES JIMMY]

SOMETHING EASY AND CHEAP WOULD BE AN AC THROTTLE
SOLENOID OFF OF A MID 80S VEHICLE AND JUST PUT IT ON A TOGGLE SWITCH
MOUNT IT ON THE CARB AND ADJUST IT AND JUST FLIP A SWITCH
I HAD A REAL POS CUSTOM CAMPER 72 AND I PUT ON A SWITCH JUST TO WARM UP ON THE WINTER

[cleszkie]

If you really want to fix your problem, either get your carb rejetted for the altitude, or adjust your timing for change in altitude. The rule of thumb is something like add 2 degrees of advance for every 1000 feet of altitude gain (its been a while since I needed this, so double check this). I used this method to keep my Blazer running as I climbed to an altitude of 13,000 feet over Teluride, Colorado. Yes, you will loose some power and performance, but the engine will not stall out at idle.

[coyote72]

I agree that it sounds like an issue with tuning, unless you are at some really steep angles. Then it would be a matter of keeping the carb bowl from spilling over. I recently moved to your area and it took some playing around to make it right.

[Got Smoke?]

I've seen pictures in off road magazine's of bicycle brake levers attached to gear shifts and a length of wire ran to the throttle linkage at the carb.

[hgs_notes]

I have one on ebay, but it is for the 67-70 gas pedal style.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150705003123...witem=&vxp=mtr

[cleszkie]

I run an old Hickey Sidewinder winch, so when I use it I throttle up with a stock hand throttle for our year trucks to keep the amps up. I installed it in the stock location right below the wiper switch on the dash. It connects to the gas pedal linkage inside the cab.

[DnvrJay71]

Originally Posted by cleszkie

If you really want to fix your problem, either get your carb rejetted for the altitude, or adjust your timing for change in altitude. The rule of thumb is something like add 2 degrees of advance for every 1000 feet of altitude gain (its been a while since I needed this, so double check this). I used this method to keep my Blazer running as I climbed to an altitude of 13,000 feet over Teluride, Colorado. Yes, you will loose some power and performance, but the engine will not stall out at idle.

Would that affect driving around town at normal altitude? (5-7K feet) When i'm wheeling it's normally up near 10K

[Firebirdjones]

Originally Posted by DnvrJay71

Would that affect driving around town at normal altitude? (5-7K feet) When i'm wheeling it's normally up near 10K

Yes to some degree. I live at 5,000 feet here, and routinely drive down to the valley (~1200 feet) and up over 8,000-10,000 feet in the mountains.

What cleszkie says about adding timing at higher elevations is true. Up here at 5,000 feet I can get away with 2-3 degrees of extra timing on the same octane fuel. Jetting also has to come down at higher elevations.

What throws me a curve ball is the dragstrip being in the valley at 1200 feet but I do all my tuning up here at 5,000 feet. There is about a .2-.3 difference in AFR readings on my wideband depending on the temperature differences.
Usually 2 jet sizes is enough to compensate.

After experimenting I've found a happy medium at 5,000 feet so I dont' have to touch anything when I go up or down in elevation. I just live with it being slightly rich at the high elevations, and keep the fueling near spot on at close to sea level. Some carbs are easier to change and tune than others.
The holley carbs with adjustable air bleeds (HP series) are the easiest for this type of tuning. I have one application of mine jetted near perfect, and simply swap air bleeds for altitude changes, makes it quick and easy.