Headers or Manifolds?

[byates2]

Im close to putting my 383 engine on the frame and bolting her up, which brought a question to mind, what would be better headers or stock exhaust manifolds. I personally like the hearder better but ive heard they have the tendancy to leak.
What would be the best choice, what hearders are the biggest bang for my buck, and what kind of, if any fabrication would i need to do to get headers to fit

[Steve-W]

my truck has headers, but the previous owner was a lazy bastard because he used the normal 6-sided bolts to fasten it. they won't fit, because the header pipes have a larger diameter so the bolt rub up againts the pipe. this leaves you with two options:
put a dent in the pipe so you can get a normal socket on the bolt to tighten it, so secondly (what lazy bastard did) tighten it with an open spanner..yes they where leaking

So I got myself some allen bolts (hope that is the right name) and felpro gaskets to keep it closed.

when choosing headers take a good look at the thickness of the connection plate, it should be around half an inch to keep it from distorting from the exaust heat.

[litew8]

For a 383, I'd say headers for sure. My pickup use to have headers (PO), but were replaced with ramhorns. BUT, you can see on the passenger side frame rail, a "notch" was cut out to accomodate headers. I've seen this EXACT same notch on another build too. Not sure I have any pictures in my build thread that show it, but you can check.

[68panelman]

My 70' blazer has headers, they don't leak, yet. Soon as i get extra funds i will return to factory style ramhorns. Probably the 2.5 version i've seen.

[FrankieD]

Go with the Summit ceramic coated they look great and fit nice . They stop just past the cross member not like the long full length headers that hang down.

[dmwphoto]

I love the simplicity and reliability of the rams horns

[Ackattack]

I had headers on my 72 with the "standard" 3 bolt header collector and I had to replace the collector gaskets fairly regularly to keep the sealed up.

On my 68 I have headers too. I welded on flowmaster ball-flange collectors and have no leaks...and no gaskets to mess with.

For a 383 I'd definitely go with headers. I also saw on a thread where someone mentioned putting teflon tape on the header bolts to keep them from loosening up, but I haven't tried it.

[byates2]

What kind of headers would you guys recommend, what would fit the easiest

[hjewell2]

Originally Posted by byates2

What kind of headers would you guys recommend, what would fit the easiest

I have Hooker comp's 1-5/8 primary tubes 2-1/2 collector's no need to notch frame rail no need to change shift linkage at tranny. Bolted in with the motor in truck, plenty of room to run a PF-932 oil filter. 1970 C/10 SBC.

[GASoline71]

I've had headers on every single vehicle I've ever owned. Early on (teenage years) I learned that overtightening fasteners warps flanges and causes leaks. After I figured that out... I have not had one leak in the last 25 years.

Gary

[Lee H]

Originally Posted by FrankieD

Go with the Summit ceramic coated they look great and fit nice . They stop just past the cross member not like the long full length headers that hang down.

Do you have the summit part number? Thanks,

[Bert W]

Gary, What are your torque specs on those headers. I used to bend them as a teenager myself.

[57larry]

2 1/2 center dump exhaust manifolds

[72 K20]

I also saw on a thread where someone mentioned putting teflon tape on the header bolts to keep them from loosening up, but I haven't tried it.


I had a 69 C20 with a small block and couldn't keep the header bolts tight,,, I used blue loctite. I changed the motor a couple of years later ,, the bolts were still tight and came loose with no problems.

Another option is a mechanical lock like the Karr locks from Karr products. They are a 2 piece washer type lock that work great !

Hope this helps some !!

Tom

[hjewell2]

Originally Posted by Lee H

Do you have the summit part number? Thanks,

Brand Hooker Headers
Manufacturer's Part Number 2452HKR
Part Type Headers
Product Line Hooker Competition Headers
Summit Racing Part Number HOK-2452HKR
UPC 700414008271

Header Style Full-length
Header Material Steel
Header Finish Painted
Primary Tube Diameter (in) 1 5/8 in.
Collector Attachment 3-bolt flange
Collector Diameter 2.500 in.
Tuned No
Primary Tube Length (in) 27 in.
Primary Tube Gauge 16-gauge
Cylinder Head Port Shape Oval
Flange Style Standard
Flange Thickness (in) 5/16 in.
Bolts/Studs Included Yes
Gaskets Included Yes
Reducers Included No
Y-Pipe Included No
Motor Mounts Included No
Transmission Mount Included No
Quantity Sold as a pair.

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by Bert W

Gary, What are your torque specs on those headers. I used to bend them as a teenager myself.

I don't have a torque spec... I just do it by feel. I now use the soft thick aluminum gaskets and snug them down tight. No gorilla torque. If the collector gasket flanges are touching each other... they have been overtightened.

On the header flange at the head, I always start with the 2 inner bolts next to the siamesed ports. Then go outward from there. Again I snug them tight and use the soft thick aluminum gaskets. I've used the soft copper ones too with good success. But they are more spendy.

Gary

[1972RedNeck]

Here's the difference between 2 1/2" ram horns and headers.

DYNO

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by dmwphoto

I love the simplicity and reliability of the rams horns

I'll second that. I would do 2 1/2" dump before headers.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck

Here's the difference between 2 1/2" ram horns and headers.

DYNO

After seeing this dyno run link, boy am I glad I stuck with rams horns.
1. The difference between the rams horns and the headers is negligible up through most of the 3000 rpm range.
2. My truck rarely if ever sees more than 3500 rpms.

My conclusion is that if you constantly run that engine over 4000 r's go with headers and the headaches that come with them.
If you're like 99% of us out there that drive our truck around normal and legal, get a set of rams horns.

[1972RedNeck]

I have center straight dump manifolds on mine. I don't know if they'll work on a 2X4.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by byates2

Im close to putting my 383 engine on the frame and bolting her up, which brought a question to mind, what would be better headers or stock exhaust manifolds. I personally like the hearder better but ive heard they have the tendancy to leak.
What would be the best choice, what hearders are the biggest bang for my buck, and what kind of, if any fabrication would i need to do to get headers to fit

When I was younger I liked the bell sound you get from headers but since I've gotten older I just like to hear the radio.

[D.PASSMORE]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

I'll second that. I would do 2 1/2" dump before headers.

X3 - thats what I run on my Blazer /2.5 corvette straight dumps, better flow for a DD and no leaky. If you go that way, shoot me a PM and I will give you the P# for the right gaskets.

But, I get carried away in 3rd gear sometimes... What - gas mileage!!

[bollybib]

Originally Posted by dmwphoto

I love the simplicity and reliability of the rams horns

x2

[Lee H]

It would seem that a daily driver and maybe a little red light to red light one would not see much over about 3500 RPMs and would not "feel" much difference between stockers (2.5") and headers. That being said today's headers with 3/8s - 1/2 inch flanges and ball sockets are virtually leak free unlike the headers of even 10 years ago.
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[FrankieD]

This is the number for the ones I bought SUM-G9006-9 they are Summit brand and for the price $219.95 and look I would not buy the painted ones.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9006-9/