Today was the day they let us go at work, now it feels like my truck is jumping in ..

[Cw72gmc]

.... my **** list. As many of you have seen I've been having carb issues. After a few attempts to tune it I realized that I have been leaking at the fuel pump outlet. Not piss leaking just dripping consistently. Today was the day my work laid of 70 people, figuring fixing this problem would make me happy because I could drive my truck I went at it. I removed the original fuel line *Steel* to inspect it, the pump outlet looked to be fine, so I finally ripped the line out, and that allowed me to finally change my filter as the line was locked I could only remove the filter housing. I got my old line out, freed the line from the filter assembly *Qjet inline* and as much as I hated to do it, bought adapters, rubber fuel hose, and a new fuel filter. FUEL FILTER WAS CLOGGED. So I got it back together and started her up. I could tell the top end sputter was gone and that I'd need to re tune the idle, as it would idle for a couple minutes and die. Come to find out it wouldn't idle because now it's PISSING out of the outlet, can watch it come around the threads of the adapter. The pump is only a year old. I think originally I may have overtightened the connector???? Is this possible? It's not leaking from the line, just the threads on the outlet of the pump. I have not used any gasket sealer as I know I shouldnt need to. How tight should I tighten the line into a new fuel pump. I know this is bad but even 20 dollars is not doable for me if that's not what it is. So before I break down and spend it have you ever had this problem? Maybe I broke the housing if I tightened it down to tight?

Chevy 350 Stock Pump Stock Q jet.

Any feedback helps

Thanks so much

[dmwphoto]

sounds like a shi*** day...

[Cw72gmc]

I did not mean to write the actual word up there I know it's a family friendly site I was going to Symbol It Out, Sorry

[Cw72gmc]

Originally Posted by dmwphoto

sounds like a shi*** day...

Yeah it has been

[GASoline71]

Sounds like you either stripped the threads... or just needs to be about an 1/8 of a turn tighter.

Gary

[68 short step]

you are using a inverted flare fitting, rather then just a streight fitting, correct?

[BB72CHEVKT]

try some teflon tape

[Cw72gmc]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

Sounds like you either stripped the threads... or just needs to be about an 1/8 of a turn tighter.

Gary

It seams the thread in ok, are bad threads more likely than over tightening?

[Cw72gmc]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

you are using a inverted flare fitting, rather then just a streight fitting, correct?

Correct It has the flare so that it will fit the internals, I took my steel line ends in and compared them, autozone had 3/8x5/16 in the flat non flare, and in the flared.

So yes I am using the correct connector, and I used the same connector at the carb, and am not leaking there

[PanelDeland]

Make sure to "back up" the fitting on the fuel pump when tightening it.Just put a wrench on it and hold it so it doesn't twist.You should be able to tighten it enough.

[Cw72gmc]

Thanks for the boost on the back it up comment. I'm 5'8" and weigh 120 So I guess even when I feel i'm getting on it, it's probably not enough, went out with a pair of vice grips, some teflon, got on it hard. Leak stopped. My day is somewhat better, and will be after I tune the idle and go for a long deserved drive, thanks so much!

[Longhorn Man]

Remove the line and look for dirt or rust on the flair. Tighten and loosen it a few times. No need to go all hulk hogan on it, just tighten it up. Do NOT put thread tape or anything else on there except maybe some light oil like PB Blaster or WD40.
Posted via Mobile Device

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

Remove the line and look for dirt or rust on the flair. Tighten and loosen it a few times. No need to go all hulk hogan on it, just tighten it up.

Yup... usually only an 1/8 more of a turn is needed.

Gary

[Ironhorse]

Anytime I take the line loose from the carb I always use a 1" open end to hold the carb fitting tight to the carb and then use ONLY a flare or line wrench to tighten or loosen the fuel supply line fitting. Using a common box end is a good way to "round off" the flat ends of the nut fitting. If by chance the carb fitting is cross threaded or such most auto parts stores used to carry a repair fitting. Not usre if they still do, haven't had a problem for a long time since I starte doing as above when taking fuel lines loose. Good luck with your fix.

[cleszkie]

If you are only running a fuel filter between the fuel pump and carb, you definitely need to add one between the tank and fuel pump. All that crap that clogged your filter had to scrape and grind its way through your poor fuel pump. Add another filter before your pump (and get rid of the one between the pump and carb) and your fuel pumps will last longer.

[cdowns]

you could have bought a premade lenth of tubing probally for less than half of what you spent on those fittings hoses and clamps // and bent up yourself a nice safe fuel line rather than setteling for the firetrap fix

[camrycurt]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

you are using a inverted flare fitting, rather then just a streight fitting, correct?

Can someone please help this non-mechanic (me!) out and explain the difference between an inverted flare fitting and a straight fitting?

I need to mock up a new hardline between the fuel pump and carb on my 230 but have been afraid to because the guy at NAPA said that the fuel fittings I need aren't available any more, so I've been worried about screwing up the ones on the truck now and so haven't done anything.

If you guys can help me find the correct fittings for a 3/16" fuel line, I'll be a happy camper.

Thanks!

[yuccales]

I'm thinking Classic Parts has your hardline, carb to pump, for around $20.00. Hope you get it all worked out.

[mpotts64]

Can someone please help this non-mechanic (me!) out and explain the difference between an inverted flare fitting and a straight fitting?


It has been a few years since I piped mine but best I remember the lines are flared with a standard plumbing flaring tool. The difference is the nut has exposed male threads with a recess for the flare that screws into the female fitting of the fuel pump while plumbing flare nuts and fittings are female threads inside the nut. Also, the fittings for steel pipe are different than the fittings for copper pipe, I could be wrong but I am pretty sure that the fittings for brake lines are also the same fittings for fuel lines since both are steel lines.

[Longhorn Man]

I'll have to argue with the fuel filter location comment posted above.
Placing one between the tank and pump lowers the pressure in the fuel line, which in turn lowers the boiling point and can cause or worsen vapor lock (boiling fuel).