sectioned crossmember

[jonzcustomshop]

any ins and outs on sectioning the front crossmember?
I have lots of time, but no cash so no dropmember...

page 3 of dinos "a suburban joins the herd" thread has some good pics.

questions:
how and what bracketry for the raised upper control arm mount?
what about the motor mounts? ( will be for a V8)
how about the steering?-does it need to be moved?

any other issues?

[SCOTI]

how and what bracketry for the raised upper control arm mount?

The upper control arms mount the same way. The holes on the side of the frame just need to be re-drilled higher up on the frame rail. One or more of the lower bolt holes might align w/pre-existing holes in the frame rail & might just require only slight elongation. The original upper bolt holes will no longer be usable so you'll need to drill 2 new ones.

what about the motor mounts? ( will be for a V8)

OE motor mounts & stanchions work if you section the x-member from the middle (CaptKaos' method). If you simply sink the rails into the x-member, you'll have to fab new stanchions or modify the OE units.

how about the steering?-does it need to be moved?

Define 'need'? The steering can/does work as is but is not likely to be optimum. The steering shaft doesn't have much clearance above the upper drivers side a-arm so the alternatives are a) limited static drop: 2" drop coils would prob be the max before you have to be concerned about contact during hard suspension compression; b) notch the upper a-arm to ensure the OE type steering shaft can't make contact; c) utilize u-joints & re-route a new multi-piece steering shaft arrangement higher above the upper a-arm; d) use aftermarket a-arms designed for OE shaft clearance (michigan metal works makes 'em) or e) No Limits R&P swap kit.

any other issues?

The combination of parts each different truck has dictates if there might be other interference related issues. Some guys have done 1.5" & not have clearance issues, others can't even go 1.5" w/o major cleance problems.

The same notched x-member required alot more clearancing (& shims to reverse some of the notch) to work in my 68 chassis but then didn't require the shims when installed into an 89 chassis (yet had the same clearance). The notched x-member was a 73-80 vintage.

Once the x-member is notched, there's no access to the upper a-arm studs for servicing. In the OE location, there are access holes in the frame. Tack them in place to make sure they don't spin or be prepared for the extra effort if they need servicing as they're too high to re-drill 'new' access holes.

Verify your planned engine oil pan depth. I originally set my notched x-member up in a 68 chassis using a sbc & was ok. When I swapped it to the 89 chassis, the BBC OE truck oil pan was now approx 1" below the lowest portion of the x-member.... NOT GOOD! I had to get a smaller depth car pan to keep the x-member just slightly lower (barely @ that).

You'll likely need to relocate the upper shock mounts for better shock length dimensions.

[Dinos63]

good info, i had good luck with the one i did. i ran it for a long time... til nate had the idea about the dropmember, i step my control arms which help out on the chamber issues

[Frizzle Fry]

Funny this comes up now. I just picked up a spare for pancaking the other day. I am thinking I'll move it forward 1" at the same time, just to be sure it's not too easy

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Funny this comes up now. I just picked up a spare for pancaking the other day. I am thinking I'll move it forward 1" at the same time, just to be sure it's not too easy

Are you planning the R&P upgrade too then? I just don't see moving it forward w/the OE box & links.

[Frizzle Fry]

Still in the design phase. I could go that route. What's the issue with the box?
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[baggedbigblock]

hope these pics may help. Raised 2" with performance online motor mounts cut and welded.









This is how she sits with 2.5" spindles and cupped lower arm with bags (rear was up 2" in pic)