Hey keith! How'd you lower lil' red?

[Telecasterjoey]

I know some one has probably asked this before and I know you're a busy man.
But after looking at your truck build thread (for the tenth time) I really like the way your truck sits. I think i read somewhere you moved the rear hanger? I'm on a budget and I read somewhere you did it cheap! I'd like to do this too. How did you lower the front?

Thanks a lot!

[grayharville]

If im not mistaken he moved the leaf spring hangers up 3" on all 4. And cut coils on the front? Don't quote me on that.
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[Telecasterjoey]

Ok cool I'm trying to find his post on it I swear he mentioned it somewhere.

Thanks!

[N2TRUX]

Here it is- LINK I need to make this in to an FAQ if I haven't already.

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

I'm going from memory here, so bear with me:

We did probably six or seven trucks in the 70's and 80's timeframe. All were done by cutting the coils on the front and relocating the spring hangers on the frame rail in the rear.

This first one was a 4" drop on the front (cut two coils) and a 6" drop on the rear (the rear was quite high to start with). Relocating the hangers constitutes 3" of that, and then I also removed a couple leafs if I remember right. Wheels are the factory aluminum, 15x7 (don't remember the offset) and the tires were an LR60-15 Goodyear.




Similar situation on this one but I didn't go down as far (...I got more conservative as I got older...). Cut one coil for a 2" ish drop, still went the full 3" on the rear. Wheels are a 15x8 truck rally (zero offset) with P235/75R15's all the way around.



Here's how the spring hanger relocation works. You cut the rivets holding the hangers and replace them with 3/8 grade 8 bolts (removing the pickup box helps with this part). Moving the bottom holes of the bracket into the top hole of the frame nets the 3" drop. Total investment at that time was around $1.38 for the bolts and $25 for a front end alignment. This particular truck has been a daily driver for 22 years with no issues.

[Telecasterjoey]

Thanks N2! thats the one!

I think I'm gonna do it this way! my only concern is now do I keep the truck "true" I realize when I move the hangers up they will move outwards from the original spot but how do it make sure they don't move back and fourth. Also How do I go about it lol Jack up the truck by the axle or frame? weight off the springs I'd assume?
If anyone has a step by step for a newbie that would be greatly appreciated!

[Cue-Ball]

I doubt you're gonna find a step by step since Keith's truck seems to be one of the few (the only one?) on this forum that's lowered that way. But it should be pretty much the same as with aftermarket hangers and shackles. You need to support the truck using jackstands under the frame (use chocks under the front tires). Then use a jack, blocks, etc. to take the weight off and support the rear end and springs. Next, have fun removing the rivets that hold on the hangars. And, bonus, you also get to remove the rivets holding the rear shackle hangers on too! (Most guys just use 2" drop shackles, but if you wanna do it for $2 then you get to do more labor instead) You've got a few different ways to take out the rivets, but having just done the job this past weekend I'd say the best way to do it is using a GOOD air hammer and GOOD chisel and punch bits. Grinding off the rivets or cutting an X and punching them out sucks in comparison. You're going to need a bunch of grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts to put everything back together. You're also going to need several high quality drill bits that are capable of drilling through a thick steel frame. There shouldn't be any issue with keeping everything "true" since you reuse some of the stock holes. The hangers don't move outwards (towards the cab). They just move straight up, or very nearly so. Don't forget a cut-off wheel or sawzall or something to cut the reinforcing rib above the shackles.

If you want to cut your coils to lower the front, that's a whole 'nuther can of worms.

Good luck!

[pat386]

Mine is lowered that way. The guy who originally built my truck cut thrm and welded them on higher. We ended up cutting those off, getting a new set from the scrap yard and bolting those on.

It's not the easiest to remove them, as they're riveted in from the factory
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[gGMC DOG]

we did the Keith Seymore drop lot of work if it was me i would get the Belltech 4" Drop Shackle And Hanger Kit

Installing A Belltech 4" Drop Shackle And Hanger Kit
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...n/belltech.htm

Belltech 4" Drop Shackle And Hanger Kit
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...SU&r=&b=&m=all

[Telecasterjoey]

Originally Posted by Cue-Ball

I doubt you're gonna find a step by step since Keith's truck seems to be one of the few (the only one?) on this forum that's lowered that way. But it should be pretty much the same as with aftermarket hangers and shackles. You need to support the truck using jackstands under the frame (use chocks under the front tires). Then use a jack, blocks, etc. to take the weight off and support the rear end and springs. Next, have fun removing the rivets that hold on the hangars. And, bonus, you also get to remove the rivets holding the rear shackle hangers on too! (Most guys just use 2" drop shackles, but if you wanna do it for $2 then you get to do more labor instead) You've got a few different ways to take out the rivets, but having just done the job this past weekend I'd say the best way to do it is using a GOOD air hammer and GOOD chisel and punch bits. Grinding off the rivets or cutting an X and punching them out sucks in comparison. You're going to need a bunch of grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts to put everything back together. You're also going to need several high quality drill bits that are capable of drilling through a thick steel frame. There shouldn't be any issue with keeping everything "true" since you reuse some of the stock holes. The hangers don't move outwards (towards the cab). They just move straight up, or very nearly so. Don't forget a cut-off wheel or sawzall or something to cut the reinforcing rib above the shackles.

If you want to cut your coils to lower the front, that's a whole 'nuther can of worms.

Good luck!

Thanks for the replies guys! I didn't realize any of the holes would line up! that makes it a whole lot easier. I shouldn't have a problem with the rivets. Some brute force and ignorance should take care of them
Thanks your reply really cleared things up

[Telecasterjoey]

Since the hangers are "v" shaped there is no way 2 holes will line up on each one. Which hole do I choose?
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[J Knight]

Originally Posted by Telecasterjoey

Since the hangers are "v" shaped there is no way 2 holes will line up on each one. Which hole do I choose?
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If I was going to do this I would make a template of the hanger bolt pattern on paper and transfer it to the frame then drill new holes in the frame, and the hangers if needed.
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[gGMC DOG]

We didnt have to drill new holes in rear brackets. When we moved them up the existing top holes lined up with holes in lower bracket. That was rear brackets that are square. The front brackets we lined up and bolted one hole then used bracket as template to drill the others. That way your sure to get placement correct. If you have any questions PM me your phone number and i`ll talk to you on the phone. I talked to Keith several times before I done this via PM.

[Keith Seymore]

Wow - you guys have been busy!

Yes - lil Red has cut coils on the front and relocated spring hangers in the rear.

I agree, cutting those rivets is a bear, but if you're low on cash this is a pretty cheap way to go. By the way, since I followed my truck down the line as it was being built I asked if they could just put 3/8 bolts in all the hangers, instead of rivets (since that is the factory repair for if you get a bad rivet). No dice....

K

[Telecasterjoey]

Darn too bad they wouldn't! that would have lowered the cost to zero lol.

Keith, do I need to remove the hangers from the leaf springs? Do I do both hangers on the one side at the same time or can I cut out the rivets on the rear hanger on the drivers side move it up and bolt it, then do the front one or is it better to hack it all apart then attach them all back on?
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[Corts60]

My truck also is lowered this way. The Original owner lowered it in '79 by cutting 1 1/2 coils in the front and relocating the perches in the rear. Has over 320,000 miles with that set-up and towed everything from a boat to a camp trailer just fine.

[THE "10" SILVERADO]

Originally Posted by Corts60

My truck also is lowered this way. The Original owner lowered it in '79 by cutting 1 1/2 coils in the front and relocating the perches in the rear. Has over 320,000 miles with that set-up and towed everything from a boat to a camp trailer just fine.

Nice looking truck there. Just need to get that little ding out of the drivers fender

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Telecasterjoey

Keith, do I need to remove the hangers from the leaf springs?

Yes -

Originally Posted by Telecasterjoey

Do I do both hangers on the one side at the same time or can I cut out the rivets on the rear hanger on the drivers side move it up and bolt it, then do the front one or is it better to hack it all apart then attach them all back on?

Probably better to do it all at once (and get it over with) -

K

[Telecasterjoey]

Thanks! I'll let you know how it goes!
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[1tonchevy]

will this method work with my 2 inch shackles and 2 inch hangers? my truck sits 3 inch too high after i put those in because of my springs (the arc on them is not factory)

[1tonchevy]

nm i just ventured out and looked my shackle is already super close to the bed it would be in the bed next :S