Can't remove brake lines help?

[tc4x4]

So I'm pulling my 14 bolt ff out to do an axle flip and can't disconnect the brake lines, they are fused into the brake drum. Ive tried heat on it also and it did not help. I'm starting to round the brass nuts off. Would it be easier to just cut the brake lines and just deal with them when the axle is free from under the truck?

What have others on here done in this situation, I know now that i will be replacing the old lines, so post up some high quality aftermarket stuff.

[79bonanza]

ive always had better luck tryin to get the rubber line that goes to the axle off than i have getting them off the backing plate. of course you always know the trusty WD-40 heat and possibly just buying new wheel cylinders lol

[THE "10" SILVERADO]

Penetrating oil always works well for me......

[tc4x4]

Where is a good spot to buy brake cylinders from?

And are there any good disk brake kits for this axle out there?
And are they hard to install?

[79bonanza]

wheel cylinders are pretty cheap and easy to find, your local auto parts store will have them.

and yes disc brake swap is pretty simple on a 14bff. prolly go to the 4x4 side of the forumn and search it and youll find all you need to do it. id say you could prolly put discs on it for under $300 fairly easy

[Turbo85GMC]

On mine, the hard line was fused to the wheel cylinder too. I just cut the line and threw away the old cylinder. Sometimes it's just easier to replace everything. The lines and cylinders are cheap money.

[Eyegore]

Please do not take offense to this question since I learned the hard way myself. Are you using the correct wrench in trying to take it off, a regular opened end will round off the nut, you need and I cannot think of the name of it now but it is a hex head wrench with an open end.

[truckdude239]

are u useing a line wrench or an open end box wrech? at this point soak them with pb blaster then lock some visegrapps on them and tap the vvise gripps

[str8axle55]

If you are going to replace the lines anyway, just cut them, flush with the nut, and then use a socket to remove. I would check the bleeder screws first though, if they won`t open, just replace the wheel cylinders. The correct wrench is a flare nut wrench, 6 point with a slot to slip over line.

[Eyegore]

Thank you str8axel55, I could not think of the name of the wrench - flare wrench. Still working on my second cup of coffee.

[tc4x4]

Eyegore, its funny that you and and no offense taken! I tried once with a regular open end wrench but then started to round one off, so talking to my dad he had the right wrenches laying around so I tried those and rounded one off. I'm just going to replace the lines and cylinders.

[ghettoluxury]

Ruff Stuff Specialtys was awesome bolt on brackets for rear disc for the 14 bolt for around $60 shipped to your door. They use front rotors from an 80's K20 and for calipers you can get front calipers for the same truck or rear calipers from a 76 Cadillac Elderado to retain an e-brake. If you use the truck calipers make sure to order them for J-code brakes, the piston is larger in them.

[tc4x4]

yeah I think that i am going to go with the diy4x.com brackets, but my question is this, what aftermarket better rotors and calipers are out there that would work with this setup?

Are there drilled and slotted rotors that would work and something like willwood calipers?

[72freak]

I find sometimes even with line wrenches they will round off. Thats will you pull out the vice grips.

[ghettoluxury]

Willwood makes dual piston calipers, i think they are D52. As far as slotted rotors search for them for an 82 K20

[mrhino]

I have had the same problem in the past. what I do and did just 2 weeks ago on my Crusader Project. take the drum off unbolt the wheel cylinder from the backing plate, hold the brake line nut with a pair of vice grips, turn the wheel cylinder until it un-threads. Obviously this is the second to last resort. its been my experience that if you cant remove it from the wheel cylinder and you cut it, you cant remove it from the brake hose either. but each one is different. By the way if you cut it, Dont use compression fittings

[tc4x4]

Originally Posted by ghettoluxury

Willwood makes dual piston calipers, i think they are D52. As far as slotted rotors search for them for an 82 K20

Did you mean search for slotted rotors on Willwood's website? If so I can't find them.

I looked at those D52's they seems pretty nice, are they a lot better than stock, if you could educate me in why that would be nice...?

[tc4x4]

And since its a rear disc conversion, wouldn't i want to be looking for front rotors to go on the rear?

[ghettoluxury]

I did not mean on willwoods website for the rotors. You need front rotors for a K20 for this conversion no matter what who makes the brackets. The D52 uses dual pistons increasing the surface area being contacted on the pad, this also makes for a little more even pressure across the pad. If you look at the new HD trucks they have dual piston calipers front and rear.

When I did the rear disc swap on my truck I used the J-Code brakes for the same reason. The piston inside is larger and helps stop better. They are factory brakes and are the same price at the parts store as the regular ones. My truck weighs 7000 lbs empty so I put them on front and rear since I am running 35" tires. With the brakes I have and the hydroboost master cylinder she stops better than my wife's Honda Pilot.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Eyegore

Thank you str8axel55, I could not think of the name of the wrench - flare wrench. Still working on my second cup of coffee.

The Craftsman, Snap-On, MAC, ... flare wrenches chamfer makes them easier to slip over the fitting. But. It reduces the contact area of the wrench where it's most needed... on the flats of the fitting. The smaller contact makes it much too easy to round off the hexes on the soft steel or brass fitting.

I try to look in yard-sale toolboxes for the full thickness older OTC and Armstrong/Blackhawk flare wrenches that aren't chamfered on the inside of the hex. Over the last 30 years I've pieced together 6 wrenches in 1/4"-3/4". The hex on the older American Made tools is broached and the slot is milled and they fit very snug on the fittings.