Ideas on my alignment specs

[INSIDIOUS '86]

So I'm getting my 86 Scottsdale aligned in the morning the specs going to give the mechanic are +5-7* degrees positive caster if i can get that much with stock setup and 1/16th toe out and -3* camber. I'm adding a lot of camber to compensate for the rolling action of the truck which In turn negates camber as it rolls. I do have a roll bar and three inch drop. From reading the make it handle thread for a few days rob says 5-7+* caster 1/8 toe in. Or toe out for some fun driving I changed that to 1/16 to maybe mild it since I have manuel steering on a p/s setup This sound like a good start for spirited daily driving?
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

So I'm getting my 86 Scottsdale aligned in the morning the specs going to give the mechanic are +5-7* degrees positive caster if i can get that much with stock setup and 1/16th toe out and -3* camber. I'm adding a lot of camber to compensate for the rolling action of the truck which In turn negates camber as it rolls. I do have a roll bar and three inch drop. From reading the make it handle thread for a few days rob says 5-7+* caster 1/8 toe in. Or toe out for some fun driving I changed that to 1/16 to maybe mild it since I have manuel steering on a p/s setup This sound like a good start for spirited daily driving?
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I don't think you'll get that 5-7° caster w/stock GM truck stuff. -3° camber is track car only range & would flat chew the front tires up in no time as well as drive poorly on the street.

As much caster as they can dial in & -.5 to -1° on the camber for the 'spirited' daily driving.

[BMERDOC]

I have been covering alignments for a couple of months now. Check out my alignment thread.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

I have -3* camber now and it still wears the outside haha
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

I have -3* camber now and it still wears the outside haha
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-0.3 or -3.0°?

[hairlesshobo]

If I understand it correctly, a lot of positive caster will make the steering more difficult on a manual steering than toe. Best I know, toe shouldn't really affect the difficulty of steering. As for caster ratings, scoti is right, you wont be able to get more than 2 or 3 degrees at absolute best and still maintain a streatable camber value.

Nick, please correct me if I'm wrong..
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[BMERDOC]

I wouldn't take it over -2.0 camber on any street vehicle unless stock specs call for more. -.5 to -1 is fine. You are at the mercy of the stock suspension. I have 3" dropped coil and still can't muster -1. I think I got -.5 on one side and -.8 on the other. All you can do is remove all the shims, see where it sits and even it out. Caster spec is between +2 and +3. Modifying the lower crossshafts seem to be the best way to go, that we've seen yet, to gain more positive caster. After that you have to work out bumpsteer which is a whole nother subject.

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by hairlesshobo

If I understand it correctly, a lot of positive caster will make the steering more difficult on a manual steering than toe. Best I know, toe shouldn't really affect the difficulty of steering. As for caster ratings, scoti is right, you wont be able to get more than 2 or 3 degrees at absolute best and still maintain a streatable camber value.

Nick, please correct me if I'm wrong..
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You are correct Sir. Increasing positive caster will increase steering effort. Could be a welcome addition to a truck that is over-assisted. Toe shouldn't increase steering effort.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

I have -3.0 camber and The outsides wear out I'm think maybe -2.5* camber due to the fact even when I dont drive like a maniac. I still don't touch the brakes when cornering. Prolly cause I'm used to the pig like understeer. As for steering effort I'm not so much worried about it. Right now my biggest concern is caster. If I need to I will re drill and move the a arm forward 3/4 of an inch
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

I have -3.0 camber and The outsides wear out I'm think maybe -2.5* camber due to the fact even when I dont drive like a maniac. I still don't touch the brakes when cornering. Prolly cause I'm used to the pig like understeer. As for steering effort I'm not so much worried about it. Right now my biggest concern is caster. If I need to I will re drill and move the a arm forward 3/4 of an inch
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What size wheels & tires?

[INSIDIOUS '86]

295 50/16s for rear and 245 40 16s front
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[BMERDOC]

If you don't scrub tomorrows plans for an alignment post the results in my thread!

[robnolimit]

5 or 6 deg caster is the best you can get with OE parts, if your lucky. Don't be surprised if its 4 deg. -3 camber is mad. I don't even go that far on the track. -1 deg camber is a bunch on the street, I'd stop there. 1/16" toe out is a good mark.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Thanks rob. I'm usually at higher than 40mph when I drive around the corners here and the body roll seems to positive out the camber. I'm going to keep trying different cambers and see at what point my max grip
Is achieved. If I lose a little grip with a lower spec but keep the angle sane then I think grippy tires will be a better choice
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[theastronaut]

What's the air pressure in your front tires? Sounds like you may not have enough for your style of driving. Take white shoe polish and make a few dots on the edge of the tread and on the edge of the sidewall and see how much is getting rubbed off. Increase the pressure and see if less gets rubbed off.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

It's about 35psi and the outside gets all rubbed off no matter the pressure but if I go 40 psi which is max it causes worse understeer not to mention tire pressures go up with temperature
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[INSIDIOUS '86]

Would I be correct on the assumption that more caster will help camber gain with turning and suspension travel. Seems like the squarebodys dont have diddly for camber gain witch prolly doesn't help the huge under steering issue
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[INSIDIOUS '86]

Got results back from the dr.s the front end can't be aligned and and the rear thrust angle is screwed up bad. The front ball joints are loose by hand and wobbly. They can't get close to my specs either. So it looks like I will be moving the lower a arm forward 3/4 of an inch for a caster gain and we may be luck with -1.25* camber. With all this being done. I may just end up going urethane everything and drop spindles as well with a rear flip

Anyone want drop schackles and drop hangers?
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[BMERDOC]

Thanks for being honest with what you found and consider this you thread on how you made it right! Mini thread!

[INSIDIOUS '86]

I'm worried that the frame is tweaked which is a possibility why thrust is out of wack.

Will adding drop spindles after the alignment cause me to have to re align? Also since I'm replacing ball joints now. I was looking at qa1 adjustables. Worth trying out? Figure I may as well go all out just about
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[BMERDOC]

Get a plumb bob and make some chalk marks. Measure and find out....let us know.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Haven't A clue were to measure or how to on the frame of my rig
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[BMERDOC]

I planted the seed for you to ask that q. I gotta unplug. If someone doesnt answer first I'll get back tomorrow!

[INSIDIOUS '86]

So how do I get my thrust fixed? The rear axle is like . 5 out pointing towards driver. I can't get it aligned till this is fixed. And since there are 3 inch drop springs and Almost no spacers left he can't get any more adjustment

Also we're do I acquire new bolts for the upper a arm? Mine are supposedly aftermarket
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[INSIDIOUS '86]

Nobody knows about suspension and alignment here?
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