Which K5 Blazer?

[ctandc]

The kid is fast approaching is learner's permit and we've been talking about vehicles. He likes the full size Blazers and so do I ...which helps since I'll be doing all the teaching him how to wrench.

Would prefer a TBI equipped truck and I'm pretty familiar with GM EFI stuff from past project cars and trucks. Not to mention that most Qjet equipped trucks have probably been modified with easier to understand out of the box carbs, and we're not looking to hot rod anything initially...and I'm not real keen on fixing previous owners "upgrades".

That being said.

TBI was 1987-1991 (unless I'm missing something) right?

Any year preferred over the others or any year to stay away from? Reason?

Beside the normal spots, where should I be looking for any rust damage?
(Electrical, Interior, Mechanical etc I don't mind doing. I even don't mind paint...just think I've had my fill of cutting, welding and patching cancer)

If the K5 we purchase isn't already lifted a bit, we'll probably go body lift and 33's at most to start. Any preference for where to buy a decent body lift kit?

Any gotcha's specific to K5? (shifters, linkages, brake lines etc) for a small body lift?

Any other K5 specific forums that anyone might recommend?

Until then I'll be searching around.

Thanks

[Zoomad75]

If you don't mind the fuel consumption, a K5 is a great first ride. Getting a later version with TBI is a smart one for the simplicity of the fuel system. Rust is something to look for everywhere. Fenders, quarters, rockers, floor (front and back), cargo area and tailgate.

The forums here are good, check out the 4x4 section too.

Personally I'd stay away from a body lift. They aren't as simple as you are making it out to be. Go with 2-4 inch spring lift up front. 4" would need at least a raised steering arm. Some of the kits will come with some drop brackets for the brake lines, but longer brake lines are not hard to get.

Keep in mind 33"s can fit without a lift provided that the stock springs aren't wiped out completely. I ran 33" tires on mine without a lift for a while with no rubbing. If you are flexing it a lot off road it might get a tire to touch. Body lifts cause so many issues that require more to fix. The bumpers require moved to match the raised body height, the fan shroud now won't fit the fan at bottom. If it's an auto trans, the cooler lines have to move up to reach the new radiator position. Steering shaft, auto trans and t/case linkages need to gain length too.

A basic suspension lift will go on with two bolts per spring plus two u-bolts per side. Lift the rear with just blocks for now to save money and that's only going to require pulling the rear u-bolts. Add in new shocks and the raised steering arm and it's done.

[ghettoluxury]

Most guys would choose 89-91 for the front end, they also have electronic speedo and 30 splines front axle shafts. The transfer case out of one of these is needed when swamping to a LS motor for the computer to function properly. So it is a good start if you are planning for a LS down the road. There are other small things like the 1/2 din radio rather than the old knobs, makes aftermarket installed much easier. 91 also had power mirrors as an option.

There is nothing wrong with body lifts, I use them all the time. The give you the added clearance needed and do not effect the factory ride quality. Your shifter will be fine with the 208 or 241 t-case. Other than raising bumpers the only other factor is that you have to drill out 2 plastic filled holes on your stearing shaft so that it will extend.

[DetroitDan]

I read on Wikipedia that 91 had the best 350, had some internal upgrades to make them last longer. TBI is nice. I happen to disagree with almost everybody on every forum when it comes to body lifts. As long as the body mounts are in decent enough condition, they are a simple and inexpensive way to gain noticeable lift. If done properly they do not fall apart, and there are several benefits actually. Since you are not raising as much of the weight, you are not raising the center of gravity as much, so it is going to be slightly less easy to tip over than a suspension lift. Not that Blazers are very hard to tip over, being short, bouncy and already topheavy.
Another benefit is that you now are able to get in there and clean it much better, which is important if it's used off road.
One of my favorite benefits is the fact that you are not raising the frame, which in many states is where they measure it for legal lift height. 3 inches is a big visual impact, clears a lot of rubber, but is three inches they can't count when they measure you. But I digress, the real reason for wanting to keep the frame down within reason, for me anyway, is to maintain a usable towing and plowing platform. Not like you're going to tow much with a K5, but I have a plow on mine, I have a 4 inch suspension which doesnt bother it much being that it's an old adjustable height conventional plow, but many newer plows are sensitive to mounting height. My old dually had a body lift, rear air bags and torsion bars adjusted up to fit 33s, and my hitch and plow were at their absolute maximum upper limit.
In theory suspension lifts may be simpler, less bolts to remove and replace, but I've done numerous of both kinds, body lifts are quite simple, as long as the mounts are not rotted away. I've done a bunch of body lifts on the ground in the driveway, with wrenches and a jack. I did a spring lift once that way, it's really tough if you don't have a shop with a lift. Used to be that body lifts were far cheaper, but I have seen the price go way up over the years. But you will maintain facotry suspension geometry, can keep your shocks and steering. I just put 4 new lift shocks and a dual steering stabilizer on my 91, spent about $250 with a ton of comparison shopping to get the best bargain. If you go suspension lift you must replace the shocks.
So, to sum it up, I think body lifts are a good place to start.

[DetroitDan]

new driver is going to want to be darned careful in a short wheelbase truck, even if it isn't lifted. Not very forgiving in the handling department.

Mine had rot in all the usual places that had been previously repaired. I had to do the rear floor dropoffs area, which is like the rear seat passengers footwell. I even had to put in new seatbelt mounts on the sides. The rear crossmember/body mount on top of the frame at the back is prone to rot away, causing the body to sag and the tailgate not to function properly. An 84 I had was so bad it broke the rear glass hitting a big bump, from the body bouncing down further than it should be able to go. Blazers are particularly susceptible to rot underneath, so look close at these area. Mine needs a rear support, they are available through LMC and others. Don't know yet how bad a job it will be, waiting for nicer weather to address it.
I'd check Ebay for body lifts, or Amazon.
Colorado K5 is a great source, CK5

Good luck with it

[1BadAction]

IMO, lack of rust trumps all the other factors. Its much easier to rebuild a motor than it is to stop cancer. Otherwise, the later the better, my 89 K5 had stock suspension in good shape with 31s and wasn't bad at all.