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Old 01-27-2012, 02:33 PM   #1
domeier
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K10 toe-in

The manual says max 1/8" toe-in... but what is the actual angle? Measuring at the front and rear of the tires for difference isn't very accurate. Anyone got a better method?
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:42 PM   #2
hayhauler71
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Re: K10 toe-in

Alignment shop
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:44 PM   #3
67swb72klb
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Re: K10 toe-in

i measure from front to rear of the rotor i dont know if it is rite or not but the truck drives good i go 1/16 though
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:06 PM   #4
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Re: K10 toe-in

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Originally Posted by 67swb72klb View Post
i measure from front to rear of the rotor i dont know if it is rite or not but the truck drives good i go 1/16 though
That's a good idea. Thanks.
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:18 PM   #5
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Re: K10 toe-in

Measure to the lip on the wheel. frontside, then backside.
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:21 PM   #6
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Re: K10 toe-in

To set the toe on our race car we run a taunt string from the back of the rear tire on the centerline (hub center) to beyond the front tire, you can do this with jackstands. Turn the wheel in and out, you can see the toe. You need to do this under weight (with the truck on the ground). Do you see what I mean....easier to do then type up.
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:32 PM   #7
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Re: K10 toe-in

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Originally Posted by RenoKeene View Post
To set the toe on our race car we run a taunt string from the back of the rear tire on the centerline (hub center) to beyond the front tire, you can do this with jackstands. Turn the wheel in and out, you can see the toe. You need to do this under weight (with the truck on the ground). Do you see what I mean....easier to do then type up.

Thats a very good method! So if I understand correctly, you mark the string at the back and then compare at the front?
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:51 PM   #8
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Re: K10 toe-in

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Originally Posted by RenoKeene View Post
To set the toe on our race car we run a taunt string from the back of the rear tire on the centerline (hub center) to beyond the front tire, you can do this with jackstands. Turn the wheel in and out, you can see the toe. You need to do this under weight (with the truck on the ground). Do you see what I mean....easier to do then type up.
Alot of 4x4's have a narrower rear axle than the front. May have to do some kind of stand off on the rear, to use this method.
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:08 PM   #9
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Re: K10 toe-in

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Originally Posted by Dunenutt View Post
Alot of 4x4's have a narrower rear axle than the front. May have to do some kind of stand off on the rear, to use this method.
This is true. You could temp spacer the back out and go from there. This only works on square. You would need to measure from the front of the back tire to the front of the front tire (easier than hub center to hub center) to check front to back square also.

I just wrote this whole thing out and sent it into oblivion...?
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70 GMC Short Stepside "Rose"-An American Beauty: Factory 402/TH400, AM/FM, AC, Tilt, Tach, Buckets, Posi, PS, PB, 3-5 Drop, Complete Resto-Rod
67 C-20 Slant Back Wrecker "Mad Max"
67 C-10 Ratrod "Step-N-Wolf"
71 Serro Scotty Sportsman camper "Scotty"
97 LT1 Z28 "The Hornet"

Link to more pics of "Rose" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...p?albumid=1684

Check out my "Cheap Tricks" thread and add to it if you can, lots of good info there. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=489394
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:23 PM   #10
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Re: K10 toe-in

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Originally Posted by blkcorvair View Post
Thats a very good method! So if I understand correctly, you mark the string at the back and then compare at the front?
I'll try again

Jackstand front and back with a string tied taunt between them at center of tire height a couple feet longer than the wheelbase.
Move the back stand in until the string is touching the rear tire.
Move the front stand in until the string is touching both the back and front of the rear tire.
There are 4 points of contact for the string on the sidewall, rear of rear tire(1), front of rear tire(2), rear of front tire(3) and front of front tire(4)
with zero toe the string would be touching all four points
with toe out it would be touching 1,2 & 4 and the distance from the string to 3 would be the toe.
with toe in it would be touching 1,2 & 3 and the distance from the string to 4 would be the toe.
The string will always be touching 1 & 2

This can get alot more complicated but this primative method works for NASCAR at the track so it works pretty good in the shop too.
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70 GMC Short Stepside "Rose"-An American Beauty: Factory 402/TH400, AM/FM, AC, Tilt, Tach, Buckets, Posi, PS, PB, 3-5 Drop, Complete Resto-Rod
67 C-20 Slant Back Wrecker "Mad Max"
67 C-10 Ratrod "Step-N-Wolf"
71 Serro Scotty Sportsman camper "Scotty"
97 LT1 Z28 "The Hornet"

Link to more pics of "Rose" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...p?albumid=1684

Check out my "Cheap Tricks" thread and add to it if you can, lots of good info there. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=489394
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:28 PM   #11
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Re: K10 toe-in

This also needs to be done under weight, truck on the ground.
After you check it bounce the frontend up and down and check again, same after you set it.
Hope this helps.
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70 GMC Short Stepside "Rose"-An American Beauty: Factory 402/TH400, AM/FM, AC, Tilt, Tach, Buckets, Posi, PS, PB, 3-5 Drop, Complete Resto-Rod
67 C-20 Slant Back Wrecker "Mad Max"
67 C-10 Ratrod "Step-N-Wolf"
71 Serro Scotty Sportsman camper "Scotty"
97 LT1 Z28 "The Hornet"

Link to more pics of "Rose" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...p?albumid=1684

Check out my "Cheap Tricks" thread and add to it if you can, lots of good info there. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=489394
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:41 PM   #12
67swb72klb
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Re: K10 toe-in

how can u go wrong thanks for the info !!
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:50 PM   #13
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Re: K10 toe-in

very cool!
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