Moving Axle + Bolt in Notch = ?

[BigCountryx]

Is there any "bolt in" c-notches that would allow me to move my rear axle about 1" rearward without getting out of the notch when aired out? I'm going to be bagging the rear and everyone says the axle looks too far forward with the stock trailing arms when completely aired out. Was planning to correct that, but with the curvature of the frame, I suspect that the notches cannot be moved any, in order to compensate for my plans. I'm sure this has been done, not trying to reinvent the wheel here. Also not looking forward to fabbing my own notch, but I will if necessary.

[YBNORML]

Give Nate at Porterbuilt a call. He'll be able to help for sure!
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[CC69Rat]

What I did with my S10 ..

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_S10-301.html

This will give you about 1/2" .. really cheap too And it will drop it about another 1/4" .. but big deal if you're on air.

I know it shows leafs, but you could set these on top of your trailing arms too I would imagine. Works just like a drop block. My initial concern was the length of your drive shaft if you go back a full inch. .. just food for thought.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

What I did with my S10 ..

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_S10-301.html

This will give you about 1/2" .. really cheap too And it will drop it about another 1/4" .. but big deal if you're on air.

I know it shows leafs, but you could set these on top of your trailing arms too I would imagine. Works just like a drop block. My initial concern was the length of your drive shaft if you go back a full inch. .. just food for thought.

I can't see those working on the truck arm application. The rear housing is located by the u-bolt that runs both through the housing pad & the truck arm. For leaf apps, the u-bolts are on the outside of the leaf thus the C/L can be shifted w/the off-set dowel.

Call Porterbuilt.

[CC69Rat]

Yep, you're absolutely right. I agree. The more I think about it, leafs yes.. Arms, no.

Thanks for catching it.
Chad
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[BigCountryx]

I shot Nate a PM. I think I read that his notch is designed with the axle centered in the wheel well, what I don't know is if I can install it without pulling the bed (tub of my blazer in this case). Pulling the tub isnt an option. Guess I'll see when he gets back to me.
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[BigCountryx]

Also, does anyone make trailing arm brackets that replace the ones on the crossmember? I was thinking about making my own that had multiple mounting points and also pushed the axle back. If no one makes them, it may be a worth while idea.
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by BigCountryx

Also, does anyone make trailing arm brackets that replace the ones on the crossmember? I was thinking about making my own that had multiple mounting points and also pushed the axle back. If no one makes them, it may be a worth while idea.
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Hotchkis makes just such a bracket that's part of their 'kit'. I don't know if pieces are available separately. Super73 also made his own. Check his tech or build threads....

[oldschool18]

If you just put a 4 link on you can get rid of the trailing arms, I would put a jack under the frame remove the rear springs and let it down and to the axel and see how much of a offset there is toward the front of the wheelwell.....when i did my 85 c-10 there wasnt enough of offset that you could even tell. If your planning on laying frame, knock the rear tubs out you will have to cut the floor out and you should be able to get at the frame it might be tight in spots and grinding some weld would suck......when I did mine I lowered the frame to the axel marked the frame and then welded my notch just about a inch over the center mark on the frame, just spot weld everything and both sides make sure it the same and where you want before you weld it fast and then cut the frame last......4 link makes the rear real tight