Modifying Fat Man Crossmember

[Handfull 54]

I was told by the people at FatMan that I could use a 79-90 Mustang R&P by elongation the holes on the passenger side. I was told just to elongate the inboard side. Has anyone done this and what type of grinder would you reccommend? I was thinking of one of those grinders used to port cylinder heads. My power rack is from a 74-78 Mustang II. I have a big block in my 54 pick up and it steers like a go kart. Iv'e only got 500 miles on it and I did have the pressure reduced in the steering pump but it is still too quick for me. Also has anyone used a manual rack with a big block? My crossmember was bought back in the late eighties and drilled only for the 16" on center rack. Thanks in advance for any help.

[N2TRUX]

I have no experience with that application but I will offer some input. Any time I adapt an oem component I try to avoid modifying the component. My theory is I would rather keep the part original in the event I need to replace it . I prefer to mod piece that the part is attached to when possible.

[Handfull 54]

Thanks for the input. I was told to elongate the crossmember, not the R&P. He said there soon will be no parts for the 74-78 Mustang II. When was the last time you saw one? If I modify the crossmember I can use a newer R&P with better steering and parts that will be around awhile.

[PBFAB.COM]

Can you cut the mounting tab off the crossmember and move it over 1/2 an inch then re-weld it in place?

[andrewmp6]

I doubt they will quit making mustang 2 parts,Look at how many companies make stuff for the suspension let alone sell it as a kit for just about any old car or trust.I would talk to flamingriver or unisteer they both sell racks for it just tell them what its in and you have a big block.

[Handfull 54]

Hello Porterbuilt. My cross member is from when Fatman first started out. The crossmember has no tabs just two holes drilled in the crossmember. It's like a piece of 4x4 wood with two 1/2" holes in it 16" center to center.

Andrew None of those companies have what I want with a !6" center to center rack. They could probably make one but it would be very expensive as a Flaming River power rack is close to $800. The 79-93 power rack with a 20:1 ratio is what I want and they are 15 1/2" center to center. Rebuilt ones are $180-250.

Thank you both for your input, but Somehow I have to make the hole on the passenger side 1/2" longer toward the center.

[robnolimit]

I have weld-on rack mounts for these. (so does fatman's) they run $24 pr. the drivers side will go right over the OE mount hole, the pass side will move in 1/2". The rack does move forward appx 1" when you do this. Steering is fine, steering shaft connection may need to be changed.
The Flaming River Billit rack uses a clamp on mount on the pass side, it will bolt right up to your crossmember. PM me if you need a price on that rack.

[49studebaker]

I am running a manual R&P out of a junkyard Mustang II in my 49 Stude. When I ran the 427 BB in the truck I had no problems at all. I have a smaller steering wheel and only when I was not rolling was it a bit tough. I really liked the feel of the manual once I was moving. Manual rack/no cup holders, impossible to cruise with a beer in hand!