So... do you want gas struts on your barn doors?

[jeffg1010]

I just finished mine. And after seeing how easy it was, I am ashamed at how long it took me to get it done. There is threads on here dedicated to putting gas struts on liftgates (clam shell doors), but I couldnt find anything with info on how to do it to barn doors, so here it is.

Part #'s and prices are at the very bottom of this post.

This project only takes about four steps and it will LITERALLY take you less than 30 minutes to do it. (if you had everything ready to go, you could have it done in 10)

Mine on the other hand, took about 4 weeks. But, I had to learn a few things and find the right parts to use. SO, you can learn from my experience.

So... I have a '70 Burb with the factory sliding mechanisms that hold the doors open. I've gotta say... I've hated these things from day 1. The first scratch I put on my Burb after it was painted was on the barn doors. I had them open and a big wind came along... slammed the right one first and then the left. (the opposite of how they are supposed to close) and it nearly gave me a heart attack when I saw my paint get screwed up. BUT OH WELL... old news.

So...
STEP 1: Remove those old sliding mechanisms. Its simple. You need a medium sized Phillips screwdriver. There is 2 screws on each end (4 per slide-8 total)







STEP 2: Install the 10 mm ball stud x 1/4-20 male thread Ball Studs onto the door and into the roof of the Burb. You can get these from Amazon.com Part Number : BS-142P6
I've looked everywhere and they are TOUGH to find. Unfortunately, I bought the wrong thread size initially from McMaster/Carr. I just had my dad machine them down to 1/4-20. I will tell you ... McMaster-Carr does not sell these in 10mm- 1/4-20... (I checked)

You will use the existing holes so there is NOTHING to drill or tap. On the door you use the only hole on the top of the door and on the top of the door frame (underside of the interior roof), you will use the holes CLOSEST to the center on both sides. Tighten the ball studs until they are seated flush.





an action shot of my mad ratchetin' skills



STEP 3: Install the gas struts. I used MONROE Part # 901460 Universal Lift Support; 23 Actual Ctr. To Ctr. Extended Length; 40 lbs. Force; This is a UNIVERSAL lift support which will save you a TON of cash. The 40 lbs wont spring the door open when you pop them open, but it is MORE than enough to open it.






They literally pop right on. I read somewhere that you need to have the skinny part of the strut (or shaft) near the bottom, so the larger part (housing) can lube it everytime it opens and closes.





VIDEO
http://s213.photobucket.com/albums/c...t=25506ea0.mp4




STEP 4: Your done. Have a beer and kiss those sliding mechanisms "GOODBYE!"





RockAuto.com
MONROE Part # 901460 Universal Lift Support; 23 Actual Ctr. To Ctr. Extended Length; 40 lbs. Force; Universal Lift Support
2 of these:
Price $13.48 x2 = 26.96
Amazon.com
10MM Ball Stud with 1/4-20 threads for Gas Spring/Prop/Strut (6 Pack)
by API
Part Number : BS-142P6
You need 4, but they come in a pack of 6
Price: $10.75

Total price for this project 37.71+ shipping


by they way... does anyone need a set of these, because I am DONE with 'em.

[gcburdic]

Great write up Jeff...it's about time you got that done.....hope that beer was nice and refreshing

[jeffg1010]

I should've have done it MONTHS ago. It's one of the top 5 "practical" things I have done to it.

I have 4 more gas struts if you want to try them. I had a couple gift certificates for Rock Auto, so I bought 6. I figured 2 for the Burb, 2 for the Blazer and 2 for dads Burb. In Hart Rod's clam shell gas strut conversion thread, he noted the heavier metal liftgate needed a bit more strength to lift his gate. He used struts from a Volvo I think. But when you get vehicle specific struts, they are about double in price. These are universal, so they are cheap. If you get the studs from Amazon, you can try these to see if they will work for you.

and yep, the beer was good. While I didn't have to work real hard (at all) to get it, it was a sigh of relief to get rid of those stupid slides. They are a pain in the rear, they are dangerous, and I am lucky I havent busted a taillight with them.


BY THE WAY... for anyone reading this thread that is considering doing the same thing to a liftgate/tailgate combo. That thread exists too...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=220511
thanks to Hart Rod...

[Average Joe]

Thank you!!!!!!!!! I too hate my factory mechanisms. Great write up. Looks so easy an Average Joe could pull this off. This deserves a spot in FAQ.

[jeffg1010]

Thanks! Sad thing is, it took me longer to upload photos and type it out than it did to complete the job. However, as an update... I found that by repeating step 4 a couple times, the project became more fulfilling. haha.

[Already Gone]

Those MonroeMax Lift Struts will last as long as you own your Burb. I put a set on my 94 Burb tailgate glass last Winter and they work perfectly ,even in -30 degree weather which we get up here.

[gcburdic]

Originally Posted by jeffg1010

I have 4 more gas struts if you want to try them. I had a couple gift certificates for Rock Auto, so I bought 6. I figured 2 for the Burb, 2 for the Blazer and 2 for dads Burb. In Hart Rod's clam shell gas strut conversion thread, he noted the heavier metal liftgate needed a bit more strength to lift his gate. He used struts from a Volvo I think. But when you get vehicle specific struts, they are about double in price. These are universal, so they are cheap. If you get the studs from Amazon, you can try these to see if they will work for you.

Yep....I'll take them....what do I owe ya....I have beer!!! Maybe you could come down and help or I'll come to your place....

FYI...I'm going to try and get some studs from a 68 truck fuel pedal like Hart_Rod used....we should see if they work on your barn door application too so others will know!!!

[gcburdic]

Originally Posted by Average Joe

This deserves a spot in FAQ.

I already recommended it

[Street Smart]

I found these, it should do the trick.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2

[jeffg1010]

Originally Posted by Street Smart

I found these, seem pricey for what your getting, but it should do the trick.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1

It's good to know there are other options out there, but those are a lot more expensive than the one's on Amazon.

Originally Posted by gcburdic

Yep....I'll take them....what do I owe ya....I have beer!!! Maybe you could come down and help or I'll come to your place....

FYI...I'm going to try and get some studs from a 68 truck fuel pedal like Hart_Rod used....we should see if they work on your barn door application too so others will know!!!

Anytime. Let me know if you find the studs. I know Hart Rod used the '68 pedal studs. My burb isnt exactly the "poster child" for the OEM truck crowd, haha

Originally Posted by Already Gone

Those MonroeMax Lift Struts will last as long as you own your Burb. I put a set on my 94 Burb tailgate glass last Winter and they work perfectly ,even in -30 degree weather which we get up here.

-30?!?!? Our all-time record low here is 0. haha

[YBNORML]

Great write-up, Thanks. I have been thinking about doing this with my Blazer.

[jeffg1010]

My Blazer is next. I've got the struts, just gotta get more ball studs.

[CG]

Nice job. A lot of guys are going to benefit from this, including me!

[Street Smart]

Originally Posted by CG

Nice job. A lot of guys are going to benefit from this, including me!

x2

[Newtz67]

Wasn't sure till I saw the budlight...

[72 DIRTY RAT]

good job! I think I will do the same.

[LockDoc]

-
I found these ball studs. Package of 6. Shipping came up at $4.99 for me.

http://api-llc.amazonwebstore.com/10...ffId=the005-20

LockDoc

[jeffg1010]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
I found these ball studs. Package of 6. Shipping came up at $4.99 for me.

http://api-llc.amazonwebstore.com/10...ffId=the005-20

LockDoc

Yeah, those are the same ones I recommended in step #2. I am anxious to see a few more guys do this.

[augie]

Thanks for the great info Jeff. It's now a FAQ and can be found here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=509544

[71meangreenc10]

Originally Posted by jeffg1010

Yeah, those are the same ones I recommended in step #2. I am anxious to see a few more guys do this.

I am working on it, got the studs in this week.

Smitty

[jeffg1010]

Originally Posted by augie

Thanks for the great info Jeff. It's now a FAQ and can be found here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=509544

WOW! I am now immortalized in the FAQ's

Originally Posted by 71meangreenc10

I am working on it, got the studs in this week.

Smitty

Once you get the struts, dont put it off like I did. They sat in the garage for three weeks. Once I got ready to do it, and got a few tools together, it took 15 minutes. And I thought... WHY DID I PUT THIS OFF?

[71meangreenc10]

Originally Posted by jeffg1010

WOW! I am now immortalized in the FAQ's




Once you get the struts, dont put it off like I did. They sat in the garage for three weeks. Once I got ready to do it, and got a few tools together, it took 15 minutes. And I thought... WHY DID I PUT THIS OFF?

Rockauto dropped off the struts today, went in super fast.

Great mod Jeff....

Smitty

[rsavage]

Nice job and write-up. You have shown me another way to spend more money, but at least it is an inexpensive project.

[BennettGM]

I like that a lot! So how would these gas shocks work on the lift glass of a 72 Suburban? That thing is heavy!
Posted via Mobile Device

[gcburdic]

Originally Posted by BennettGM

I like that a lot! So how would these gas shocks work on the lift glass of a 72 Suburban? That thing is heavy!
Posted via Mobile Device

Go here and review this thread for lift gates

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=220511