Introduction/700r4 problem

[silversnail86]

I'm new here so let me just say Hello to everyone. I just bought my first Chevy, it's an 86 c10 lwb "low milage motor" "forged bottom end blah, blah, blah. So far i know its a 3932386 block and 416 heads not sure weather it is a 302, 327, or a 350 though, but well see.

Anyway it has a 700r4 and the T.V. cable is tied on to the carb with a wire. Horrifying right? I ordered Jegs setup today. Obviously my shifts are a little screwy. I know for a fact this truck just went from Montana to California and back very recently with this setup, so I've been driving it. Most of the time it acts ok, but on a cold morning I start it up let it (force it to) idle for about 2-3 mins (no choke) drop her in reverse and it makes a squeal or grind noise for 2-3 seconds before it shifts then when I give it a little gas to back up the slight slope in my driveway the noise goes away. I have heard it while warm in reverse as well, but it shifts normally and the noise is quieter. So I was wondering if anybody has any idea of what may be causing the noise.

I changed the filter today and the pan had a solid inch thick layer of s#@t around the bolts. So I know it hasnt been opened up in a long time, and to my suprise the inside of the pan was near clean just a credit card sized pile of black mush and a small amount of shavings on the magnet.

[truckdude239]

Okay 700r4s are a weak trans, a misadjusted t.v cable is a death sentences to a 700r4 a misadjusted cable can burn up the 700r4 in about 2k miles the black mush sounds like the friction clutch are burned up mixed with the fluid

[silversnail86]

Thanks for the reply any thoughts on the noise or is it maybe coming from the friction clutch?? And now that you say that the fluid was pretty mettalic looking.

I have found a fairly local shop that does tranny exchanges, 700r4 being $775, nearly four hundred less than anyone else around. To good to be true?

[gramps77]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

Okay 700r4s are a weak trans, a misadjusted t.v cable is a death sentences to a 700r4 a misadjusted cable can burn up the 700r4 in about 2k miles the black mush sounds like the friction clutch are burned up mixed with the fluid

Why would you say 700's are a weak transmission? They are just fine and like any other transmission depending on application. Of course if you take a bone stock 6 cylinder version and install it in a 400hp V8 application, it probably wont last long, but thats not the transmissions fault. Yes they NEED the T.V. cable to be adjusted correctly but I have used 2 and one was in a 64 Chevy II behind a 350hp 327 that NEVER caused me any issues. It also got my 22mpg usually, If I kept my foot out of it. I've also installed 2004Rs that many people said the same thing, not a good idea. Those too however worked out great.

O.P. if your truck has been driven for any amount of time hooked up as you say it is though, youre transmission is probably toast. since you say the fluid is metallic looking, that would be a good indicator. Dont take it anywhere until you get it hooked back up, swap the fluid thats in it, and take it from there. May want to see if you can get a pressure gauge from BTO overdrives and see if you still have good pressures.

[silversnail86]

So I got the Jegs tv setup in yesterday and ordered a pressure gauge be here on monday. When i go WOT the cable comes out all the way and shifts soft when I push it back in some gets harsh. Ill flush it today, see what happens. I hate automatics. As for driving the truck it was setup that way for a solid 5k. I think it shifted nicer before but it slipped pretty badly on take off. Now it takes very little throttle to smoke the tires when i take off loads of low end torque from this setup.

[VetteVet]

Look here for engine codes------. http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.php

[gramps77]

Look here for pressures, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=357961

at least you'll know if youre way off that you have bigger issues. Especially read, post #9 in there. Id even go so far as to drain and fill the tranny, then drain again after some "spirited" driving and refill and see if that doesnt improve it. Just make sure to not use any of those additives. If you have a Walmart near you, they have it by the gallon for cheap. Dont worry about their blue bottle cheap stuff. Thats what Id been recommended to do by 2 different transmission folks. BTO and the local builder who builds them for a lot of the drag racers here in Sac. Never had any issues.

[silversnail86]

Well I work at a quick lube so I'll just do a full flush maybe another filter. We have Mobil products. We also carry lube guard and I will be adding some of that goodness. Thanks for the line pressure link tho.
As far as identifying the motor I have the number off the back of the motor and it comes up as a 68-69 302/327/350 the numbers on the space in front of the head have been machined off so I'll have to take it apart to be certain.

[silversnail86]

Ok maybe I shouldn't even say anything but if this 700 doesn't work out I think I'm going to a good old sm465. I only have 2.73 gears and I'm runnig a 31in. tall tire according to the calculator this will put me at 2200+RPM at 75MPH. I can handle that(not to sure about the clutch but oh well) especially since I haven't really driven this truck on the highway yet so I won't know what I'm missing. I have a np435(fairly close to the same gear ratios) in my old Dodge Power Wagon and with a 318 it's pretty fun but the it has 3.55s and screams down the road. Maybe save for a TKO in the future. Anybody wanna buy a subaru?

[silversnail86]

WOO-HOO Pressures checked out good. I am a happy camper now i have some spare cash for fun parts,