Looking for advice on buying a 68 K10...

[Tink]

My husband and I might have the chance to get a 1968 K10 (or maybe it's a K20?). It is a longbox, has a 350, is in rough shape (bodywise) and has some wiring issues but it runs. It appears to be lifted about 4 inches and has a winch on the front. Haven't seen it up close... it is sitting in a field right now.

Anyhow, what should we look for and what do you think is a decent price to pay for a truck like this??

Thanks!

[Scottri]

Look for rust around the rocker panels, the cab corners and the front fenders. Another big factor for me would be original parts. What is there and what isn't. Is the motor correct for the truck. Does all of the running gear work correctly? I would also make sure all of the body panels are correct for the year such as front fenders and hood, grill and such. Some people have mixed and matched parts from different years. It will work but it's not correct for a true restoration.

Electrical problems are not hard to sort out for these trucks. Just about any part you could think of is still available and they are very easy to work on.

I can't really help with the value since I'm not from that area but here in Portland Oregon I would say maybe $1500 if it's all there. They are pretty common around here.


Scott

[Hutch]

Tink,
Check the frame for cracks near the steering box mounts and where the transfercase mounts to the frame.
These are usually hidden from site due to grease build up.
Frame problems are something to be aware of up front due to the complexity of the issues.

Check the vin numbers and the options sheet listed on the glove box to see if the numbers match.

I would not think that a winch or lift kit would add to the price



Have fun

[CPNE]

Problem areas/Tips:

1. Check for cracks in frame where steering box bolts. This is a major stress point.
2. Frame rust through. Especially hardest hit is LH framerail between cab and rear wheels.
3. Rear spring hangers, again rust-through prone.
4. Cracked leafs, front and rear.
5. If original, transfer case is a rockwell. Hard to find parts for these.
6. If original, it should be a standard, no auto 4x4's were made until 1970.
7. If original, front axle will be a closed knuckle Dana 44, a less servicable design than the open knuckles used 70-72.
8. Look at lift, I'd be wary of too much "backyard" engineering if done incorrectly.

67/68 4x4's do not share some chassis parts with 69-72 years. Most notably the steering box/pitman arm and the rear shackle and springs. Parts chasing on these can be tougher and more expensive.

Don't shy away from it based on me, just go into it with your eyes open. Good luck.

[CPNE]

Wow hutch, you and I are on same page with tips, I just type slower!

[Tink]

Thanks for all the advice!

Well, the truck is a 70 K10, has newer rockers and fenders but the doors are toast. It has a race built 350, a body lift and all-terrians. He is asking $1000 for it.

However, I can't get a hold of him so we can really see it!! He needs to invest in an answering machine! I'm about to call at 5AM when I get up!

[old Rusty C10]

LOL if ya call me at 5am the price woulda doubled!!!

[neonlarry]

At least in CA, any running 67-724x4 will go for more like $2500 and up, even if it isn't all that nice. But there are very few 4x4s of thses years here.