Hitch/Brake controller for working Longhorn?

[andymarkv]

Hey guys, I got a 71 C20 Longhorn (307/4sp/4.10's) road worth a couple years ago. My buddy now wants to haul a small 12' 2 cow stock trailer with it.

I'm looking for the right hitch for this truck. Because it is a leaf sprung C20, does that mean the frame is different? (K20?)

I stuck a random craigslist step bumper on it, does that mean I'll need the drop hitch for the 10" bumper I see listed? I would rather have the hitch tight to the bumper and not hang way down below it.

We've been talking and we think a class III hitch will do what he needs. Trailer weighs 2100lbs empty.

I have been looking at this Curt hitch from Summit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CHT-13028/

Also... I've been looking for a "How To" for wiring a brake controller. I haven't found one yet.....

I thought all of this had been covered before....but I didn't find what I needed in my searches.

Here's a couple of pics of the truck with the rear step bumper.




Thanks guys! Its pretty cool to see this thing still on the same farm after 41 years doing work like a champ!
This truck just feels good when you drive it, hell you guys know what I mean!!

[chevydog66]

Looks like it would work, but how much is shipping on that thing? It probably weight 40lbs. +. I think you would be better off buying 1 locally, like from Advance auto, Autozone, Oreillys, Napa. That way you could test fit it and return it if needed. You can also get a electric brake controller from the same auto parts stores for $50 or so, and the wiring instructions are included with it. Plus, the guys at the parts stores will recommend the right wiring, and maybe fuses, or wiring connectors. I installed a electric brake controller on my 72 GMC and tow my 66 Chevelle on a trailer.

[andymarkv]

Good idea!
Buying local is probably the best bet. There just isn't too much selection around here. But I know most of the guys and I'm sure they'd order in the hitch I want.

Was the brake controller/lights easy to wire?
I don't think it will be a big deal, I've just never done it before.

[chevydog66]

There's only 4 wires it's not too hard.
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[va72longhorn]

yep, two #10 awg wires from the controller to the battery (one for positive fused at 30 amps and one for the ground), one #16 awg or #14 awg from the controller to the "load" side of the brake switch, and one #10 from the controller all the way back to the trailer connector. You'll need a 6 or 7 pin trailer connector depending on your trailer. I always use a 7 pin as its easier to adapt down than up. I would go ahead and run another #12 or #10 to the back from the battery while youre at it, for a constant hot to keep the emer. brake battery or aux winch battery charged. Fuse that one at 20 amps. Watch out for sharp edges when you run the wires down your frame. Tie wraps and sliced, old fuel line help alot. Not nearly as hard as it sounds.

[andymarkv]

Thanks guys!
I'm sure I can figure it out, I just wanted to get an idea before I jumped into it.

Now I just need to find a hitch that fits well and looks right. That might be a trick because of the random bumper I have on there.... I'm afraid the end of the receiver will be tucked under the bumper due to where the frame ends and the thickness of the bumper.
But that could be fixed with a slightly longer drawbar.

It will be nice to see the truck working pulling a trailer!

[JJorgensen52]

I have that same Curt hitch on my K10 truck, I originally installed it with the factory rear step bumper and the hitch was slightly beneath the bumper, but with a standard draw bar the ball was ideally placed for towing. It's very well hidden unless you're looking for it.

The hitch has no ratings on it, but as far as I can tell it's 6k/600 for ball towing and 10k/1k for weight distributed.

I've towed 6200 behind the truck with surge brakes on a ball and had no trouble with it.

With the original step bumper:




With my new offset sport bumper (the bumper's about 4.5" rearward from the factory location)