283 ?

[tc64]

i recently inherited this 64,and all the knowledge about it went with my brother.i've been told it has a 283 but the heads are not stock.and there is something funny going on with the waterpump hose.can anyone tell me whats what?

[padresag]

why do you feel that the heads are not stock. that little hose was orig perhaps a moulded hose., otherwise it looks a little short and is kinking. if it was longer it wouldn't kink and flatten out like that
ron

[markeb01]

Welcome to the forum. The kinked hose is a temporary patch to plug up the holes so the engine can be run with the heater disconnected. Normally the heater hoses would be connected in those locations. One to the intake manifold and the other to the water pump.

Beyond that it appears someone installed an HEI distributor, and the engine compartment has wiring issues needing attention soon.



The connector on the far right powers the turn signals/parking lights in the hood and is disconnected.

1. The main harness near the heater looks to be partially disconnected.

2. It appears the alternator wires are cut off.

3. At least two of the spark plug wires appear to be resting on the exhaust manifold.

4. The ring terminal next to the exhaust outlet needs to go somewhere, probably to the alternator.

Also - in order to use that style of smog valve connection on the oil fill tube, the valve covers should have either breather caps or vents going to the air cleaner ducting. It can’t be determined from the photos if the draft tube ventilation is still in place behind the intake manifold. It’s a black pipe that hangs down on the right side of the bellhousing behind the starter. If that breather has been removed and capped off, the engine should be a leaker because there appears to be no crankcase ventilation. Placing a breather cap on the oil fill pipe won’t really help much, because it will just allow fresh air into the smog valve, but won’t really help with the pressure build up in the crankcase.

Not trying to be picky, just sharing that some improvements are needed before this runs dependably.

[padresag]

mark; what did they do there when there was no heater? as heaters were optional.
ron

[markeb01]

When no heater was ordered, the factory just used pipe plugs at the manifold and water pump. All the original non-heater vehicles I've owned used the older style plugs with the square top that an adjustable wrench would fit. The shortened hose routine is usually done spur of the moment when the heater core ruptures and the owner needs to get home without running out of coolant.

Here's an example on my old 305 V6. Ours was a Southern California truck and never had a heater until I installed one after living in North Idaho:

[tc64]

i was told the bolt pattern on the valve cover was different.so that is the correct water pump?and i should take a good look at the heater for leakage.as for the wiring.my bro had cut them all on both sides of the fire wall.dont know why but i assume he was getting a new wiring harness.i plan on restoring it.working on the cab first.LOTS OF RUST right were it usually is,from what i've seen on this site.ive included some more pics.as i said my big problem is i just dont know any thing about this truck.any help is greatly appreciated.

[Rich 5150 69]

The heads are power pack, they didnot put those on from the factory, they are for the 220 hp 283 , the carb is a Rochester monojet, that definately didnt come with that engine too small that is from a six.

[trevrolet65]

Wow, that looks alot like the 305 i pulled out of my sons 65, cept it had the 2 jet. I'd looked up the castings to be sure. The 267 I pulled out of my 71 had the same markings but with accessory holes, it was a pooch to say the least. I was told it was a 350. Castings don't lie.

[Alan's Classic]

Welcome aboard!!

There is a stamped ID # in front of the passenger head on the block. There is generally a 2-3 letter code that will tell what it came in. There is also a casting number behind the driver side head adjacent to the trans mount flange.

[T Smith]

I don't think that's a 283 block. I was told that a block with that flat pad at the front passenger side of the block below the head indicates a 4" bore block, so 302, 327, 350.

I'm probably wrong but it ain't the first time...

[tc64]

so the powerpack heads increased the hp?why the small carb?what size carb should be used?

[tc64]

the pad id on the front of the block is not readable.does anyone have a pic of where the one on the drivers side at the rear of the block should be?

[Rich 5150 69]

use some paint thiner and clear the grease off the pad, using a fine grit sandpaper lighlty sand the pad the numbers should show up, the heads were offered from 56 to about 66, passenger cars 265 - 327 smaller chambers, but smallish valves as well. The carb should be rochester two barrel, or in your case with the power pack heads a four barrel eldlebrock 500 cfm, but for the four barrel you`ll need to change intake manifold, the back of the block drivers side on the top will have a casting number you`ll need to find, if Tsmith is right, which I think he is it will be a 010 block from late `66 to about 86`

[padresag]

Originally Posted by tc64

so the powerpack heads increased the hp?why the small carb?what size carb should be used?

more than likely would have been a rochcester 4gc for a 220-230 hp
ron

[T Smith]

I also don't think those are "power pack" heads as they are designated with the double humps or camel humps as they are referred to, those are single spikes, just old run of the mill heads I think.

That engine appears to be a "mutt", early heads, early intake, early carb, later block, HEI ignition, long water pump, that balancer is not right for a 283, they have tiny little balancers.

And again, I may be wrong...

[Rich 5150 69]

A=standard run of he mill heads B= power pack

[tc64]

do i have to pull the motor to get a look at back id numbers.the front pad looks like it or the whole top of the block was shaved.no numbers there.is there a down side to keeping this carb?eventually this motor will be rebuilt or replaced,but like a kid with a new toy i need to know now.

[T Smith]

You're right! I was thinking about the "fuelie" heads with the double humps, here's the link to the chart...


http://www.fastnuf.com/Headguide.html

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by tc64

the pad id on the front of the block is not readable.does anyone have a pic of where the one on the drivers side at the rear of the block should be?

Look down behind the drivers valve over and up a little towards the dizzy. It will be a raised number just ahead of the trans. It may be covered with grease and dirt.
Posted via Mobile Device

[tc64]

thanks guys.i'll check it out and post.

[tc64]

heres a b4-after of my progress this weekend.

[bruceman1968]

Originally Posted by tc64

the pad id on the front of the block is not readable.does anyone have a pic of where the one on the drivers side at the rear of the block should be?

[Captainfab]

Just a FYI. That engine has a long water pump, which was not used until '73 in the trucks. Obviously it does work, but you have a mismatch of short water pump pulleys on the crank, with a long water pump, water pump pulley.

Assuming the balancer is correct for the engine, that is likely either a 283 or a 327.

I also noticed the alternator is an internally regulated alternator. There again, not the original style. You might need to confirm that the truck had been correctly converted.

You will also want to check to be sure that the HEI distributor has a full 12 volts going to it.

If the spacing of the valve cover bolts are different from the exhaust side to the intake side, they are 1958 or older heads.

[tc64]

i thought there was something strange about the water pump.as for the alt,by correctly converted u mean? the dipstick is on the drivers side,if that means anything.a friend said there were some 283s with it on the ps.is he yankin my chain or is there something to that?i cant check till next weekend and its killing me not knowing what motor it is.

[Captainfab]

I'm talking about changing the wiring to make it function correctly. Here is one link to show how to wire up a GM 10si alternator

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm

You might also check out

http://www.madelectrical.com

I'm sure there has to be a thread or two on here that show how to do it also. You might check in the FAQ section.

I've not seen a 283 with a passenger side dipstick. It is possible that the ones installed in the Chevy II Novas did, but I don't remember for sure.

Originally Posted by tc64

i thought there was something strange about the water pump.as for the alt,by correctly converted u mean? the dipstick is on the drivers side,if that means anything.a friend said there were some 283s with it on the ps.is he yankin my chain or is there something to that?i cant check till next weekend and its killing me not knowing what motor it is.