Bleeding Drum Brakes

[j1970GMC]

Hi Everyone,

I'm bleeding the four wheel drum brakes on my 67 c10.

I cant get any fluid out of the the right rear brake.

Is there a pin or something that I need to depress on the distribution block. I tried with a vacuum bleeder hooked to my air compressor with no luck at all.

Any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!

[BIG69GMC]

Sounds like ur wheel cylinder is plugged? Do u have someone holding the brake pedal down for u while u crack the bleeder? If nothing coming out of the bleeder, try cracking the line connection to the wheel cylinder and if u get fluid then u need a new wheel cylinder
Posted via Mobile Device

[j1970GMC]

Originally Posted by BIG69GMC

Sounds like ur wheel cylinder is plugged? Do u have someone holding the brake pedal down for u while u crack the bleeder? If nothing coming out of the bleeder, try cracking the line connection to the wheel cylinder and if u get fluid then u need a new wheel cylinder
Posted via Mobile Device

I've been using a vacuum bleeder hooked up to my air compressor, but I can have my wife help me with the crack bleed method. I had her try it a few times for about 1 minute and nothing came out. We had to stop to look after our baby girl (she's not that into helping me although she does quite often)...


Thank you for your help! I'll try the line connection.

[Dieselholic92]

Are the brakes vacuum or hydro boosted?

[j1970GMC]

Originally Posted by Dieselholic92

Are the brakes vacuum or hydro boosted?

They are manual? Whichever is non power. They don't have a booster right now.

Thank you!

[earlthegoat2]

Definitely have to try bleeding with a helper. Those vacuum bleeders rarely work right and are slow.

That said, replacing the wheel cylinder will be cheap insurance.

[fastwillie 696969]

Originally Posted by earlthegoat2

Definitely have to try bleeding with a helper. Those vacuum bleeders rarely work right and are slow.

That said, replacing the wheel cylinder will be cheap insurance.

i have no problems with vacuum bleeders ,but i used the jar trick when bleeding brakes

[Dieselholic92]

Well I would try it with a helper once, just so you can rule out the bleeder if that's what it is.

[1970 Bowtie]

Whats the reason you are having to bleed the brakes,new mc,new brake lines?

[j1970GMC]

Originally Posted by 1970 Bowtie

Whats the reason you are having to bleed the brakes,new mc,new brake lines?

New master cylinder. Bench bled it, but I'm obviously not doing something right or I need to replace the wheel cylinder too.

Will try with a helper hopefully tonight. I don't feel like I tried it enough yesterday to really give it a shot.

Thanks for the help everyone!

[j1970GMC]

Originally Posted by fastwillie 696969

i have no problems with vacuum bleeders ,but i used the jar trick when bleeding brakes

I thought it would be easy with 120PSI helping me...

I bought the kit from Harbor Freight. Maybe I'm not using it right, although I've read the directions like four times...

[GRX]

Two words ... ~speed bleeders~ ... will make the job a breeze.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-639590/

[webfoot]

I had the same problem on my 70 chevelle. Come to find out one of the lines was completely plugged up with 40 years worth of crud. Something to consider if a new wheel cylinder doesn't do the trick.

Speed bleeders are nice. I got mine from O'Reilly's or autozone.

[Dieselholic92]

Well I was having the same problem on my chevy. They're hydro boost, I bled the front brakes just fine, and then I went to bleed the rear and nothing would come out. So I had my helper start the truck so the hydro boost would work and it blew out the brake line on the frame which was plugged with rust and rusted out.

[j1970GMC]

Originally Posted by webfoot

I had the same problem on my 70 chevelle. Come to find out one of the lines was completely plugged up with 40 years worth of crud. Something to consider if a new wheel cylinder doesn't do the trick.

Speed bleeders are nice. I got mine from O'Reilly's or autozone.

The fluid in the old master cylinder is really, really nasty. I've never seen brake fluid like this. It looks like transmission fluid.

[treveiger]

Originally Posted by GRX

Two words ... ~speed bleeders~ ... will make the job a breeze.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-639590/

With those all you do is loosen the bleeder an pump the breaks and it'll just bleed your brakes for ya?
Posted via Mobile Device

[skidder111]

I have also encountered plugged bleed screws. I removed the screw and used a tiny drill bit, compressed air etc to clean it. Just a thought.

[GRX]

Originally Posted by j1970GMC

The fluid in the old master cylinder is really, really nasty. I've never seen brake fluid like this. It looks like transmission fluid.

Sounds like water got in there and things rusted up. You should definitely flush the entire system or you'll regret it. Blow some air trough the lines to ensure there are no clogs. Though with water invading the system, I would be scared the hard lines are weakened from the inside. I have experienced that before. Bought a '69 Olds Cutlass where I had to replace EVERYTHING including the lines because they corroded from the inside.

Originally Posted by treveiger

With those all you do is loosen the bleeder an pump the breaks and it'll just bleed your brakes for ya?
Posted via Mobile Device

Pretty much. The new speed bleeder takes place of the old ones. You tighten it like usual, then back it out half a turn. The bleeder is now a one way check valve. They let fluid out when you pump the pedal, but don't let any air back in then you releases it. Cannot tell you how much easier the bleeding operation is with them. Well worth $20 for a set of 4.

[ol_skool_chevy]

Replace the rubber brake line located at the rear end...........they always look fine from the outside but collapsed on the inside.
replace it and it should be fine..........it happens all the time

[j1970GMC]

So my brother just came over and we did about 10 minutes of bleeding the old fashioned way.

It worked like a charm. I tried the vacuum bleeder I bought again and no luck. I tried my brother's manual vacuum pump and that did not work either.

It looks like the only way to do it is the time consuming way. I tried to get speed bleeders at the Kragen store during lunch and they didn't have them...

Thanks so much for all the help guys.

[treveiger]

Originally Posted by GRX

Sounds like water got in there and things rusted up. You should definitely flush the entire system or you'll regret it. Blow some air trough the lines to ensure there are no clogs. Though with water invading the system, I would be scared the hard lines are weakened from the inside. I have experienced that before. Bought a '69 Olds Cutlass where I had to replace EVERYTHING including the lines because they corroded from the inside.
Pretty much. The new speed bleeder takes place of the old ones. You tighten it like usual, then back it out half a turn. The bleeder is now a one way check valve. They let fluid out when you pump the pedal, but don't let any air back in then you releases it. Cannot tell you how much easier the bleeding operation is with them. Well worth $20 for a set of 4.

Hey thanks for the info!!!
Posted via Mobile Device