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Old 05-04-2003, 11:59 PM   #1
c-tenkid
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What' it take to run 12's?

Alright guys.I have a 1967 chevy c-10 lwb.

It is going to be a drag only truck.

I have a 4 bolt main 350 shortblock.It is out of a 79 chevy truck.Little to no ring ridge on the cylinders.(I don't want to have to rebuild it if I don't have to)


As for the cam.I was looking for something around .510 lift.230's duration at .050.And about 112 lsa.With this cam It should start making power around 2 grand right.

I have no idea on the heads.I am on a pretty tight budget.Some pro topline iron cylinder heads.For 64cc chamber and 2.02/1.60 valves would be about right.I plan on running an airgap RPM or a single plan of some type.(victor jr from edelbrock)The lifters would be hydralic.Not roller.The rockers would probably be rollers.(I am going to try some 1.6 stamped rockers that crane has on my 69 and see if I like them)


The carb would probably be an edelbrock 750 or 800cfm.


So the motor would be


A stock short block.
.510 lift cam with 230's duration,112 lsa
Aftermarket heads
airgap intake
750 edelbrock
HEI with accel upgrades
hedman 1 5/8 headers
rebuilt th350 with shift kit
3,000 stall 10' inch convertor
3:73 gears or 4:10 with posi unit
28 inch tall 10.5 inch wide slicks.


As for the suspension it will be a 79 c-10 front end.With 2.5 inch dropped spindles with 1 inch drop springs.The rear suspension will be GM A body springs.All new shocks




This is within my budget.It will take a while.I could pull it off though.


YOu think I could be in the 12's n/a with this setup?


Thanks.
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:08 AM   #2
Longhorn Man
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While I can not answer your Q...I'd stick with the stock drums...they are lighter.
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:19 AM   #3
Blue_71
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if its going to be a drag only truck, go with a holley
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1969 Chevy CST/10 SWB
1971 Chevy Custom/10 (first truck) 350, NV3500 5 speed
1971 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 4x4 350 TBI, SM465/NP205
1974 Chevy Custom Deluxe/10
1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 farm truck beater
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:33 AM   #4
gmc67swb
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SPRAY THE CRAP OUT OF IT! I BET IT'LL GO 12'S THEN.
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:34 AM   #5
69sixpackbee
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Drop a Hemi in it!
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:35 AM   #6
c-tenkid
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I have a holley carb.It is a 600cfm vacuam secondary. (#1850 maybe)

I can't tune carbs worth a darn.I have a edelbrock 1406 on my 69 and I love it.Makes good power out of the box.And I haven't had to touch.

That would be why I choose an edelbrock over a holley.
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:43 AM   #7
cableguy0
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ok its one thing to be on a budget but if u want that engine to stay together and not go to pieces when it is zinged up to 6500 rpm which is about where that cam will start dropping horsepower so ur gonna wanna shift at 6300 or so a stock bottom end will not live at least not very long at all at those rpms. the cast pistons in a stock motor are junk u want at least hypereutectic pistons and that engine NEEDS to be balanced.
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:43 AM   #8
c-tenkid
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Another option is this.

I have a buddy that has a 400 small block.Just the block I know I could get for free or cheap.

The kicker is it needs a new sleeve.He had it in an s-10.Which was freakin fast!But he grenaded it.I am not sure where the crank and all that stuff is.

First of I would need to get a new sleeve,and all the machine work done.Then a crank and rods.Along with a rebuild kit of some kind.Also since the 400's had steam holes.the heads would be a pita.(I think the pro-toplines come with steam holes)


So I could build a 406 also.I would like to stay with the 350 for cost reasons though.
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:52 AM   #9
supercheyenne
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If your on a tight budget, you probably can't afford 12's in a 4000lb truck.
Not trying to be negative, just realistic.

Nitrous is the cheapest way to get faster.
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:55 AM   #10
c-tenkid
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I know your being realistic.


The 350 with those heads,cam,intake and carb,headers,Should be making 400hp.The torque(more important than hp)Should be up there also.

I think 13's should be attainable on a budget.



12's would beat an ls1 camaro though!
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Old 05-05-2003, 01:13 AM   #11
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Read this article.

There's also a part 2 and a part 3.

If you want to add nitrous to that, you could dip the 12's with the right gears.

I'd guess that motor to cost about $2000 (top of my head type figure).
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Old 05-05-2003, 09:33 AM   #12
mikep
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In theory you could get into the 12's with a little nitrous and that setup assuming you were using a 3500 stall converter and 4.11 minimum gearing. In practice you'll blow the bottom end on that motor if you do. With nitrous you need a good ring seal and good forged pistons if you want it to hold up for more than a couple of runs. Ideally you'd want good rods too and a balance job. While it sure is fun running 12 second blasts it really sucks to have to get towed off the track because you have a hole in your oil pan and believe me it WILL happen if you twist that motor over 6000 rpm and you'll need to with that cam. 79 short blocks have cast dished pistons which also wont give you the compression you need to really let the cam work . Spend the extra $800 for a bore job, rings , bearings , a set of forged domed pistons, ARP bolts and a balance job and you will have a motor that will hold up to most of what you can throw it.
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Old 05-05-2003, 10:43 AM   #13
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I agree with mike and I hate to sound so negative. I had the similer set up in my short stepside with a 383 stroker, 3.73 gears, and a m21 4 speed. The only thing I didn't have was aftermarket heads. I couldn't get into the 12 seconds if I tried. It was more like low 14s maybe high 13s. I could keep up a Mustang that would run a 14.1 Quarter mile.
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Old 05-05-2003, 11:32 AM   #14
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if your serious about building a drag race vehicle the first thing you have to do is get your head out of the clouds!! these trucks are 4000pounds of barn door aero!! if your on a budget you ain't goin to see 12's if this is your first attemt at racin try something realistic like mid 14's build a strong reliable engine that you can have some fun with week after week then as you gain experience and knowledge on how to tune for performance you can slowly upgrade your effort
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:20 PM   #15
lpaine
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Yeah, like what Longhornmail said, stick with the drum brakes up front, you can set them up with "0" drag,- less rolling resistance-also try indexing your spark plugs, where the open side of the plugs are make a corresponding mark along the length of each plug- the open side of the plug should face the intake valve, you should get a little better burn on each cylinder. It may take a few times to match up each plug and maybe a few extra plugs to do this. Just a couple of low-buck tricks.
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Old 05-05-2003, 01:12 PM   #16
c-tenkid
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wow.I am used to messing with third gen camaro's.(they weigh about 3500 pounds)I am a member at another furom.And there are alot of guys running 12's with a bolt on 350.


If I rebuild the motor I would go with a 383.


I know I will need to clearance the block.Small base circle cam.Some kind of aftermarket rods.383 crank.I would probably run hypertec pistons.(I don't really like spraying.I have been around race engine's my entire life.But hands on experince is still low.)



So 14's with that setup.Hmm maybe I should use my 86 sport coupe camaro for this!
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Old 05-05-2003, 02:38 PM   #17
wnc mountain
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But it sure would be fun to put the extra money in the truck just to stomp those car guys. Nothing makes them feel worse than loosing to a truck.
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