|
03-25-2012, 11:38 PM
|
#1 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Glendale AZ
Posts: 10
|
Body Work Question
Okay, here is my question...I had to do some body filler repairs and need to know if I can etch prime over filler or is that a no no? If I cannot, what do I use to coat the body filler? Next question... if there is some minute rest exposed, will the etch primer eliminate that or so I have to figure out a way to sand the rust off? Any help is appreciated. Oh and its for a 1964 Chevy truck Step-side SWB.
AJ |
|
|
|
03-26-2012, 12:09 AM
|
#2 |
|
1 thing at a time is progress.
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ball Ground GA
Posts: 5,511
|
Re: Body Work Question
moved ya to paint and body.
__________________
Alan
Philippians 2:14-16 |
|
|
|
|
03-26-2012, 07:25 AM
|
#3 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Marianna Arkansas
Posts: 7,261
|
Re: Body Work Question
I would'nt use acid etch primer. I would suggest the use of epoxy primer. and yes you need to sand off the tiny bits of rust forming around the filler. Epoxy primer has no fill properties [neither does etch] so after you prime 2-3 coats of epoxy[spray the first just on the filler as it tebds to soak up the first couple of passes], I say go over that with a high build primer[2-3 coats] and block the body spot out and spray acouple of more coats then you are ready for paint
|
|
|
|
|
03-26-2012, 07:38 AM
|
#4 |
|
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chattanooga TN
Posts: 6,206
|
Re: Body Work Question
I would:
* Sand the repair area with ~80 grit on a DA, down to bare metal. * Do the repair work and hammer / dolly out as much of it as you can. With as minimal filler as you possibly can, right on the bare metal. * Block the filler as best you can to get it as flat as possible (I use 120 on a DuraBlock) Epoxy prime ( I use DPLF - PPG ) the bare metal. Epoxy needs to cure for 24hrs. Do not allow to sit in DPLF for more than 7 days. 2-3 light / medium coats * Scuff the DPLF ( I use red scothbrite ) * 2-3 Coats of high build primer SPI / Omni / PPG depending on your preference * block with 220 - DuraBlock ( should begin to get 'slick' at this stage ) * re-prime with high build - 2-3 light coats being careful not to build too quickly. Let each coat flash / cure before the next. * guide coat and block again with 400 Depending on the color you choose and metallic or non-metallic you might need to consider blocking to 500/600 to hold down on sanding scratches. Metallics will fall back in 400 sand scratches. Seal, base, clear ..
__________________
Chad 1967 C10 SWB - Project Savannah - 6.0/4L80 *Currently underway* 1968 C10 SWB - TOTY 2018, 50th Anniversary Tribute Project * Sold * Pride and Joy 1986 Silverado Short Fleet - Scarlet *Sold* 1985 Silverado Short Fleet *Sold* 2022 Jeep Gladiator Mojave 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 - Lifted, Built 1992 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 - Lifted 2013 Honda Accord EX-L v6 Coupe 6spd (wife's ride) |
|
|
|
|
03-26-2012, 10:50 AM
|
#5 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: North Louisiana
Posts: 4,501
|
Re: Body Work Question
These guys are giving you good advice. Even though I don't care for DPLF, I would use epoxy also. In most cases etch is not to be sprayed over filler.
__________________
Wynne 70 CST short fleet Hugger orange & white, 350/350, ps, pb, air, tilt, tach/vac/speedwarning, original buckets, AM/FM, oak bed floor, shoulder belts, 3.5"/5.5" drop, 20" American Racing VN425s. Build thread 53 Chevy shortbed 69 Camaro Click here to subscribe Chevy GMC International Truck Club Louisiana Charter Member http://www.louisianaclassictruckclub.com |
|
|
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
