Rocker and inner panle design

[stsalvage]

OK I've seen it all now But.the one true question remains.I just saw the video on the rocker and floor replacement.But you still have the same problem or it will come back.

I was just taking a shower and thought why don't you elevate the bottom of the floor next to the kick panel area.

OK hear me out every truck from 1940 --1993 and up have a curve floor that angles to the trouble area's where we get the most cancer.Ok now if you wanted to go up a little higher so that you can get away from that trouble area and move it away from that corner area that you can aim it in a troft so its not right up against that trouble area.and and angle the floor so that the water can be directed to one point.

My other idea was why do we have those wire runner's.There nothing but dirt collectors and the main spot where are cancer begins.

Lest say of we took the sending unit wire and the cab light wire and ran it out under the cab and drilled a small hole for under or by the gas tank to come back up.Its not that hard.

The steal plate that holds the carpet down and holds the rubber mat would still be there but there will be no more wire gully.On earthier side.

Now this is the tricky part when you have the water moving the way you want you have to have a place for it to run to and out of the cab.My one thought was to open a bridge over or throw or under the steal plate..that is a idea for the designers to figure out.

No matter how many times you fix where the water comes in it will make it in there again.

the heater cowl where the windshield wiper's are housed is one big cancer stick.trucks are made to flex that's why they put drip check in serten area's to many seems.

My one main kicker is that floor pach at the end where the floor meets the kicker panel and the upper part of the fire wall or the beginning of the elevated driver and passenger side floor.

Please any of you guys that do welding kick it around Me i rather cut out part of the middle of the floor instead of that corner.

Cus i have to do mine in my 1968 3 door and my 1971 and my 1965 and i'm not happy at doing it the same Flaw way that ends up the same way in 10 years.

Lets Fix this problem and make it drain correctly.

I know what your thinking stop the water coming in and no more problem well not all of us are that good at taking apart are trucks and fixing them

so we have to fix the one thing that is getting hurt and make it better so we can have timne to find the leak

[bcutt]

I think you are over thinking the whole thing. Like you say stop the water from coming and and you wont have to redesign the truck. Check your seam sealer in the drip rail, check your windshield gasket, weather stripping, things like that. Also check underneath your inner cowl panel, water may be getting in through there somewhere.

[Dingfodgy]

^ I agree. No need to re-invent the wheel to solve a problem that is usually maintenance related. As said, make sure all water mitigation devices are in working order ( i.e. weatherstripping, gaskets, sealers, etc.) Next, when you do replace the rockers, kicks, corners, supports and pillar bottoms- spray or brush everything you can get to with a good rust inhibiting coating. use weld-through primer where you have to plug weld. Do those things and you should be good for another 20-40 years.
Remember- Mother Nature and time will destroy EVERYTHING........eventually!