Beginner Engine & Air Suspension Questions

[MattPSU]

As I get started with my build I have a couple questions that I need some input on. My Truck is a 72 SWB with a 350, automatic transmission & quadrajet. This is my first complete build, so forgive my "beginners" questions:

1 - Should I do a top end build (new heads/intake) without working on the bottom end? To the best of my knowledge, the engine's never been touched aside from oil changes and replaced gaskets here and there. It runs fine (when there's gas in the tank) and there doesn't seem to be any issues with the engine or transmission. I'm decent at body work and I'm good at swapping bad parts for good parts, but engine work is new to me. I'm looking for simple things I can do to improve performance & looks while not killing my budget. OR will I be better off to just clean and paint for now, save my money, and find a shop to rebuild the whole thing at some point in the future?

2 - I'm trying to decide whether to do a static drop (ECE's 4/6 kit) or an air suspension (Ride Tech's Level 1 kit). If I do air ride and use that kit and my stock components, how much of a drop will i have? Fully inflated will it sit where it sits now or will it be lower? How much will it drop when deflated? Are there any other companies who make kits that you'd recommend? To any of you who've gone from one to the other: Why'd you switch? FYI - My goal is to have a driver. I have a tight angle to get into my driveway, and I'm not looking to lay frame.

Thanks in advance for any advice & input! - Matt

[davepl]

I would start with a diagnostic on the engine - purchase a compression tester and a leakdown tester (with the latter you may not need the former, but you need the latter). Doing a leakdown test is a little confusing your first time, but its not difficult.

You also need to know how much oil pressure the engine is making at hot idle; a gauge will tell you, but you might need to add one to know.

If your engine passes the leakdown test and has good oil pressure, leave it alone. Do a traditional tuneup on it, rebuild or have the carb rebuilt -if- it needs it.

On the drop, I'm out of my element. You could always do what I did --- learn to like the stock ride height and leave it alone, and not have any headaches :-)

If you're a detail-appreciating kind of guy you could spend weeks or months detailing a driver to make it look like new. If you have a compressor you could invest in a benchtop sandblaster (but a wire wheel on a drill will suffice, though not as nice or fast). Go through and clean, surface, and paint the engine and brackets and all underhood pieces. You will also, in the process, gain experience in where everything goes and in the skills of taking it all apart and putting it back together.

With your engine compartment fully detailed it'll feel faster! More difference than heads and a cam would make on a vehicle this heavy, I think.

If I had my life to do over again, I'd also recommend you take it to Earl Scheib or some other discount paint place and spend the few hundred bucks to get a "10 foot paint job" on it. So many people drive around primermobiles for a decade with the plan of getting that concourse paint job years from now that never materializes.

A cheap paint job in your factory color scheme will turn heads from everyone except the lawn-chair-car-show crowd.

[Pop's C-10]

...

[Pop's C-10]

I agree on tha engine..leave tha heads alone..other than replacing intake,timming cover & oil pan gaskets..slip a fresh stock timming chain & oil pump & a new balancer ..detail it up & hit tha streets..

[davepl]

There's always a grand temptation to slap "performance" parts on a vehicle, but unless its to service the needs of other parts, I say avoid it.

For example, adding an aluminum intake and big carb to a stock engine doesn't buy you much unless you have the cam and heads that need it. And at the same time, now you've probably lost the exhaust crossover and messed up the choke and so on... too often we wind up killing driveability and cold start operation without really buying any improvement.

Generally I think engines should be built from the inside out - the pistons determine compression ratio which determines the cam, in combination with the heads, and then the intake and exhaust systems can be improved from there. But in playing with desktop dyno you can see that with the stock cam and heads it doesn't really matter -what- you put on top of them, they themselves are the limiting factor.

[502ms]

I love my ar suspension. Questions?
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[chevy2man63]

I'm curious about the air suspension myself so i will post my question as it seems to be what he's looking for. If you go basic air ride what drop do you expect over stock ride height. Can it be aired up to stock ride height and then aired out to a lowered stance and comfortable ride.

[502ms]

Originally Posted by chevy2man63

I'm curious about the air suspension myself so i will post my question as it seems to be what he's looking for. If you go basic air ride what drop do you expect over stock ride height. Can it be aired up to stock ride height and then aired out to a lowered stance and comfortable ride.

Fully lowered, it rides just like a Mercedes-Benz S Class, with the cornering of a sports truck.
I will post another pic of ride height. The pics below show different ride heights and before the drop








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[DaBigKahuna]

Hey Leon... do you have a build thread on your truck? If not how about specs on your suspension. It looks great!

[502ms]

Side view


I think if you weigh the costs, you will realize for a little more, the bags are worth the investment over static...I was this close to a static drop, and realized that I may not be satisfied, then have to spend the money to change over and finish it on the air...
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[chevy2man63]

Leon thanks for the pics! That really put it all in perspective. I'm going to repeat the question is there a build thread?

[502ms]

Originally Posted by DaBigKahuna

Hey Leon... do you have a build thread on your truck? If not how about specs on your suspension. It looks great!

Thank you! I do not have a thread, but I can definitely create one! I enjoy driving my truck over my BMW, which is lowered on Bilstein PSS9 full coil overs.
It drives like a Porsche 911.


My 84 BMW 533i
http://leonmillette.photoshelter.com...000M3o93Yy0iCw


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[502ms]

I am going to create a build thread...
I need one anyway, as next up is interior, paint/body and figuring out drivetrain
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[big_al_71]

here is my opinion

if the engine is running good and there are not any issues I would say clean it up and paint.
As far as the suspension I went with Ride Tech and I can not be happier. I was not interested in laying frame I was interested in going as low as possible without having to modify the bed floor or take the inner fenders out.

here is the end result

[502ms]

Al, I love your truck
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[MattPSU]

Thanks for the input everyone. I think I'll keep on my clean & paint path! I wasn't sure if it made sense or not to do a top end build without doing the whole thing, and it sounds like I was correct.

Al - Is everything on your truck stock except the air ride? Stock spindles, arms, etc? I'm like you in that I don't want to cut fender wells, or notch the frame. Not yet anyhow.

Leon - Is your stuff Ride Tech or something else?

[PanelDeland]

I'll just add that if the engine hasn't ever been rebuilt and has quite a bit of milage on it,you may cause problems tightening up the upper end while the lower is worn.Some claim it can cause increased blowby and oil consumption since the upper end holds pressure better than the lower.

[502ms]

Matt,

My setup is from CCE, they are well known for hydraulics....
I have 2 ViAir compressors, one 5 gallon tank, 8 -3/8 smc valves, 3/8 lines, Firestone bags, c-notch, zd front...I think I got it all
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