Horn relay

[landy]

Where is it physically located on a '72 blazer? On mine, there's a black wire that runs from the horn into the fire wall. I was expecting the relay to be located in the engine compartment, but apparently not.

Thanks!

[nightmare]

i've got a pickup, but should be in the same spot. right above the fuse block inside the cab. rectangular piece, has 3 wires going to it.

[Rawlings]

Mine is against the inner firewall between the top of the fuse block and the steering column three wire plug light gauge black and heavy gauge red & green. If your horn works unplug it and press the button you should hear the click of the relay.

[landy]

The horn works when I apply a 12 volt source directly to it. The truck came with a funky steering wheel, which I removed, but the horn contact pieces were missing. I've bought some new parts from LMC, but still haven't got it working. Thought the relay might be bad, so now that I know where to look, I'll check it.

Thanks!

[fun in dirt]

The horn works from the steering wheel button by grounding. Be sure all the little pieces are clocked right & lined up correctly when pressed. Be sure all the contacts are good & clean too, a little scuffing with sandpaper usually helps.

[landy]

Still having some horn problems. Now I know why the P.O. must've disconnected the horn.

So to recap: with 12 volts applied directly to the horn it works. Replaced all the column horn components, grounded the steering wheel button and no horn. So then replaced the horn relay, grounded the horn button and got some buzzing and some smoke. Checked the horn relay and it had a hole in the side of it. So I know there's a short in the circuit somewhere, but I'm not sure where to start. I have one horn with a non-original wire running to the terminal The factory wiring diagram seems to indicate that a wire should go from the horn to the fuse panel. Is that correct?

[landy]

Bump. Anybody?

[pound41]

I went over a speed bump and my horn went off. Pulled the plug and the horn stopped. But the battery went down. I was told the wire had shorted going down the column. Haven't check it out yet.

[ol'blu72]

Get a multimeter and put it on ohms. Pull the connections one ant a time from the relay and put one lead on the wire and one to ground. If the needle moves that wire is shorted to ground. Follow that wire to find where it is rotted or worn through, you will probably have to replace it. OH and one of the connections should be a ground so that one is not a short lol. also the one to the horn should ground when you hit the horn button. Hope this helps a little.

[landy]

Still having horn problems. I've replaced the relay, signal switch, and cancelling cam. When I put the cancelling cam onto the steering shaft and push it down, the bottom brass part of the cancelling cam contacts the edge of the turn signal stalk, grounding out, and the horn goes off.

I'm not clear on how the horn components inside the steering column are supposed to work, so maybe I'm missing a part? But I don't think so, because I've compared the parts diagram in the LMC catalog and the repair manual, and it looks like I've got everything.

I understand that when the barrell shaped copper button is pushed down and grounded the relay/horn is activated. And I'm assuming that the bottom of the cancelling cam shouldn't be contacting anything other than the copper button. There's very little clearance between the brass bottom part of the cancelling cam and the edge of the turn signal stalk - maybe there's a spacer or spring I'm missing? It's a non-tilt column, BTW.

Could I get an explanation of how the horn parts inside the steering column work?

Thanks!

[landy]

Man, this horn problem is really bugging me. So without the cancelling cam installed, I installed the steering wheel and the horn starts blaring. In order for the horn relay to be actuated, I thought the copper button must be depressed and the circuit completed by the steering wheel grounding to the steering shaft or something other metallic piece.

So I removed the new turn signal switch from the column to check for any wires that might have been damaged and possibly shorting out, but all looked good. With switch removed from the column, the meter shows 12 v between the copper button and the steering shaft. With the button pushed down, also get 12 v. I think it should be 12 v only with the button pushed down, correct? Perhaps the switch is bad? Any other possibilities?

Thanks!

[pound41]

AS i stated earlier all the horn button guts are out of my steering wheel and horn is disconnected. I dont drive this blazer it needs floor pans in it. When I hook up the battery the relay under the hood clicks. If i hooked up the horn it will blow. I was told that the wire is shorted down the column. I have a 70 blazer that I bought. It has a push button installed for horn and is wired completely seperate. I havent looked to see if the horn wire coming down the column has been cut. I have seen several blazer with push button horn buttoms so this is a common problem I guess. I was almost thinking of getting a new painless wiring harness and changing it all when I get one road worthy

[landy]

Yeah, that might be the easiest solution, but I'm really perplexed by this issue. The new turn signal switch comes complete with new wiring. It connects to a plug outside of the column so I don't think it could be shorting out inside the column, but ???

[landy]

So now I'm wondering if the horn problem is due to the 2nd gen steering wheel I'm using (mine is a '72). This truck had a small diameter after market steering wheel when I got it, and all the horn components were missing as well. I bought a used 2nd gen steering wheel to replace it with, but he steering wheel seems way too close to the upper steel column piece. The back part of the steering wheel is rubbing on the steel column piece. Without the cancelling cam installed, I put the steering wheel onto the shaft and the back middle steel part of the steering wheel touches the copper button and the horn goes off. So even without pushing the copper button down, the circut is being completed.

With the cancelling cam installed, the wheel barely slides onto the shaft and is way too wobbly because it's not making adequate contact with the splined shaft. And there's a large gap between the back of the steering wheel and the upper steering column piece.

Somebody had mentioned that the copper button is supposed to fit through a hole in the steering wheel, but there's no hole for button, only the cancelling cam button.

So does anybody know if there's a difference in width between the 1st gen steering wheel and the 2nd gen steering wheel?

Thanks!

[landy]

Bump. Steering wheel differences? Anybody? anybody? Bueller? Bueller?