350 block with edlebrock IM. gonna teplace gasket. need tips and trick. thanks

[dead civic]

tsup fellas. before I go off and get my carb rebuilt. I'm gonna replace the IM gaskets. because the IM is leaking coolant at the front of it were some RTV was squished out too.. and i noticed the bolts were loose all around.

I sprayed break clean around the IM and got a small reaction before i noticed the bolts were loose so I'm guessing the gaskets are shott. and that is probably why my truck is acting up the way it is. :/

Question:
*350 chevy block [1979 Corvette 350 5.7l ] do i order for the corvette? or for the c10 5.7L motor?
*edlebrock intake manifold

-what gaskets do i need? regular ones?

-how do i take care of the distributor? anything i need to know?

-do i need to remove the valve covers for this?

-difficulty level from 1-10? [10 being very difficult and time consuming]

any helpful input is greatly appreciated.

thanks fellas.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

IM?
Posted via Mobile Device

[dead civic]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

IM?
Posted via Mobile Device

Intake Manifold

[Dieselholic92]

Intake manifold I'm guessing. You can order gaskets for which ever motor you want, they'll be the same. I would go with some Fel-Pro gaskets, not sure what you mean by regular ones.

Make sure you mark where the rotor on the distributor is pointing, whether you mark it on a valve cover with a permanent marker or on the intake or something, and then make sure you put it back in with the rotor facing that same direction.

You don't need to remove the valve covers.

It really isn't that difficult to remove the intake manifold, just sucks since you have to drain the coolant. Just make sure you remember which way the rotor in your distributor is pointing.

I wouldn't use the end gaskets that come with the intake to head gaskets. Just use a nice solid bead of silicone at the front and rear of the manifold and make sure it all connects to the intake gaskets so you don't get any leaks.

[bilfman]

Its not too hard.

1. Order the regular vette gaskets, it won't really matter but you know that is the block.
2. Distributor, to ease putting it back together, make sure no.1 cylinder is at top dead center compression stroke. Easy mode is take out no.1 plug, seal the plug hole with the top of your finger(don't stick it all the way in) when you feel pressure, you on the compression stroke. Once you know this look on your harmonic balancer and line up the line on it with zero on the timing tab. From here on in do not turn your motor over. Look at your cap and wires and remember basically where they are (this will maintain a general timing when you put it back together). Now take off distributor cap and mark, picture, draw, remember however you want, the position of the rotor. This is important because when you are done the job you want it in exactly the same place. The reason for doing the above is to maintain proper timing and firing of the distributor on reassembly.
3. You dont need to remove the valve covers, but if they are getting in they way of stuff you can.
4. in your gasket set, throw away the rubber/cork/or whatever is in there for the front and back seal. Crank case pressure can push these out and they are notorious for leaking. Get a good grade automotive silicone and apply a generous bead front and back, usually have to lay it pretty thick as it is about a 3/8 wide and about 3/16 thick area to hit. Make sure to over lap some silicone onto the intake gaskets where the meet the front and back seal.
5. Gasket 101, make sure surfaces are really clean, use brake cleaner or similar too to remove any grease and junk.
6. Before putting intake back on duct tape the carb area shut, just in case you drop a washer, socket, bolt when reinstalling the intake.
7. Be sure to drain antifreeze before you start teardown.

Good luck, pm me if you have any questions.

[dead civic]

thanks fellas. seems fairly easy. I'm gonna take this task by the horns. bilfman thanks for PM I'll be sure to get at you if I happen to need any advice. thanks.

[2ndstoryslam]

All gasket surfaces are clean and dry. Intake too. Quality Fel Pro (the blue ones) silicone is up to task. Use blue lint free shop towels to wipe gasket surfaces. Crumble up paer towels in the heads to keep debris from falling in while prepping gasket surfaces. Use water till the job shows no leaking. Plain water is easier to clean up, and cheaper than antifreeze.

[csb#356]

The last time I put an edelbrock intake on I had to take the valve covers off, I couldn't get the intake between them. I don't remember what intake it was, I think it was the performer rpm air gap. But if you have the valve covers off you can find top dead center easier. It's easier to just put the engine on TDC and put the distributor in I think. Its hard to get the rotor pointed back at a mark you made. Also when you put the distributor in you should have the #1 cylinder at 8 or 10 degrees BTDC(or whatever you want it timed at). It won't run that great with 0 degrees of advance (right at TDC). To make sure you're on TDC of the #1 cylinder you can just watch the valves or as others said you could just put your finger over the spark plug hole.

Good Luck!

[Weasel Diesel]

Here's the factory pdf instructions... tells ya gaskets & all

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../2000/2101.pdf

[dead civic]

OMG this truck is such a pain.

so I finally decided I'd work on it. went out and bought my gaskets and needed parts.

performed the work, I noticed that the face of the Intake Manifold was decayed but to me it looked OK.

when i was pouring water in the rad. it would gurgle out form the pas side front journal... and I went to tighten it down some more. and did the same, but it slowed. then when i turned on the truck it was so accelerated (I'm not sure why). so when i added water it was still leaking so much form there.

I tightened the bolt and the IM just broke at that corner and through the whole i can see that IM was not making any contact with Intake gasket because of the decayed journal. **** sux.







sux

also, why do you guys think it was so accelerated?

[Dieselholic92]

Couple questions. What do you mean the face of the intake manifold was decayed? And what to you mean that it was so accelerated?

[dead civic]

the face of the manifold, I meant the part that meets the heads. and when i turned on the truck after the work was performed it was at like 4k RPM... guesstimate.

[Dieselholic92]

Well for the rpm part, I would be looking at either your carb or the throttle linkage. Do you have your throttle return spring/springs set up or is the throttle getting stuck on anything? You said your carb was rebuilt recently, by who?

You can't really do anything about that ear broken off of the intake manifold other than find a fabrication shop that can weld aluminum and have them weld it back on. You need to get that fixed in order to torque it down and get the manifold to seal. And they should be able to fill in that spot that wont seal and smoothen it back out.

[dead civic]

well no I have not had my carburetor rebuilt. but I feel it's due. I was hopeing that I'd know today but no luck because this happened.

I think I'm going to just buy a new intake manifold. its much easier and it will save me from further issues.

It just really sux that i was up all day working on this for that too happen.

[Dieselholic92]

Originally Posted by dead civic

well no I have not had my carburetor rebuilt. but I feel it's due. I was hopeing that I'd know today but no luck because this happened.

I think I'm going to just buy a new intake manifold. its much easier and it will save me from further issues.

It just really sux that i was up all day working on this for that too happen.

oh okay, i thought you said you had it rebuilt but I see you said it needs to be rebuilt. Well your rpm problem is either carb or throttle linkage related.

That's just what happens when you work with older vehicles. S**t happens

[dead civic]

Originally Posted by Dieselholic92

oh okay, i thought you said you had it rebuilt but I see you said it needs to be rebuilt. Well your rpm problem is either carb or throttle linkage related.

That's just what happens when you work with older vehicles. S**t happens

yeah. I'm almost positive it's due... but this truck has set my mind to POS so I'm weary of doing anything to it because i feel that it will not fix it. and today did not help me think other wize

FAAAAK THIS!

[Dieselholic92]

You just gotta keep going with it. I can't even count how many times I've wanted to say screw it with my projects. But when you get all the bugs worked out and can cruise around in peace, it's all worth it

[dead civic]

Originally Posted by Dieselholic92

You just gotta keep going with it. I can't even count how many times I've wanted to say screw it with my projects. But when you get all the bugs worked out and can cruise around in peace, it's all worth it

I feel you on that one. There were times that I'd just take off. truck all jacked up but running and i loved it.

[sean1969c10]

To help make life easier, pick up a set of ARP intake bolts when you get your manifold. The heads of the bolts are smaller and it is much easier to tighten the manifold.

[dead civic]

got her done fellas





bumped into another issue...
my transmission (350 trans. as stated by seller)is not shifting now. i topped off the trans fluid to where it is supposed to be and still no shift.

I got on the free way and it shifter to third and tho fourth only after a lot of throttle play. I'd let go of the gas then gun on it. what could this be?

EDIT: think i found my answer tho.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/chev...um-197235.html

> what mud bros said

[dead civic]

forgot to mention the transmission has a shift kit.

[wyattglock]

If it really is a th350 trans, it wont have a 4th gear. However, the link with the article about the vacuum line is correct. That needs to be connected to the back of the intake in order for the trans modulator to work properly. If you can't find one, just get a piece of 3/16" or 1/4" brake line and use a couple small pieces of vacuum hose to connect the manifold to the modulator. That should solve your shift problems.

BTW, new intake looks great!

[dead civic]

Originally Posted by wyattglock

If it really is a th350 trans, it wont have a 4th gear. However, the link with the article about the vacuum line is correct. That needs to be connected to the back of the intake in order for the trans modulator to work properly. If you can't find one, just get a piece of 3/16" or 1/4" brake line and use a couple small pieces of vacuum hose to connect the manifold to the modulator. That should solve your shift problems.

BTW, new intake looks great!

yeah bro. i vacuum line it all the way and vwallah. it works just fine. and thanks i think it looks real good too.