rebuild my motor vs new -

[dan42]

I am thinking about what to do here. I have a 350 crate motor I got at the JY in my pickup right now, I'm assuming the 260 hp version, but I'm not sure. It runs pretty good, but I want something a little quicker. I might be able to sell it, but would it make sense to just go through it and build it into say a 383 stroker? I wouldn't get much for it on Craigslist I'm sure, and assuming the block is O.K., is there any reason I shouldn't just build up what I have?

[72peace]

There's a lot of things you can bolt on to a 350 to make it quicker without rebuilding, I'm running a 350 with 220 aluminum heads, eddy intake and carb; and it's "quick". However, if you have the money just burning a hole in your pocket and the need to consume gas, then go for it. Probably most of these additions and then some would go into your rebuild anyway so...although I wouldn't recommend 220 heads for a daily driver, talk about consuming gas

Good luck with your rebuild/bolt on,

[GASoline71]

What are "220" heads? The size of the intake runners? If so... I agree that anything over 180 on the street is overkill.

You can warm up a 350 for relatively cheap and get some power. Don't even need to make a 383 to make good power out of a 350. Getting 1hp per cubic inch out of a 350 is EZPZ.

Gary

[72peace]

Yes, it's extreeeeme overkill, and I've been verbally reprimanded on numerous occasion, once I get the funds, the plan is to get something more reasonable. But I agree the once elusive number of 1hp for 1ci is not that difficult anymore.

Cheers,

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by dan42

snip...

O.K., is there any reason I shouldn't just build up what I have?

Yes. Oil.
Everybody keeps saying how modern engine oil has less zinc which is hard on flat tappet cams. If you rebuild what you got and don't address the cam shaft you have to spend a fortune on oil, oil additives, a combination of the two, or future new cams.

The next 350 I do, whether it becomes a 350 or a 383, I will be starting with a factory roller cam block. The General made them through 99 in pickups and a bit later is subs so they are just getting numerous in yards around here in the rust belt.

For the time and effort you need to put in to an engine to do this type of thing you may as well start with the best starting point.

Oh and you can build a different roller engine while you drive that crate engine around. Then when the new power plant is ready, you're only down for a day or two.

[cdowns]

what i'd do for instant cheap horspower on that engine is a set of headers and a larger freer flowing aircleaner

[dan42]

Originally Posted by mrein3

Yes. Oil.
Everybody keeps saying how modern engine oil has less zinc which is hard on flat tappet cams. If you rebuild what you got and don't address the cam shaft you have to spend a fortune on oil, oil additives, a combination of the two, or future new cams.

The next 350 I do, whether it becomes a 350 or a 383, I will be starting with a factory roller cam block. The General made them through 99 in pickups and a bit later is subs so they are just getting numerous in yards around here in the rust belt.

For the time and effort you need to put in to an engine to do this type of thing you may as well start with the best starting point.

Oh and you can build a different roller engine while you drive that crate engine around. Then when the new power plant is ready, you're only down for a day or two.

Good point. I forgot about the roller cam part. But would getting another crate motor (with a roller cam) be cost efficient vs. finding a motor and building it the way I want? I can put the motor together, but none of the machine work, obviously.

[Tmwoodall]

You can get a case of the VR1 racing oil with plenty of ZDPP shipped for ~$60 at amazon of all places. Dunno about you guys but buying a decent off the shelf oil isn't that much cheaper.

[dan42]

I'm not looking for a cheap way to get a faster motor in my truck - I'm looking for a motor that I will look forward to starting and listening to, as well as driving it. A really nicely balance motor that has plenty of power, is dependable , and decent (14-15 mpg) mileage. Something you can appreciate.
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[Hubscrub]

i build all my own stuff noting crazy, but i can build for way less (around here) than a crate. that being said my uncle gave me a short block out of a wrecked camaro that was stroked to 383 and i really enjoy the extra torque that has and still gets good mileage (in a 75 nova) it still has the manifolds and even an old cast intake on it so it could be better but i like it much better than my 350's. but i like inline 6's too so i'm not power crazy

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by dan42

Good point. I forgot about the roller cam part. But would getting another crate motor (with a roller cam) be cost efficient vs. finding a motor and building it the way I want? I can put the motor together, but none of the machine work, obviously.

I'm sorry. I didn't mean to imply that you should buy a crate roller engine. I meant you should keep your eyes peeled for a used vortec (roller) 350. I have one on a stand in my shop that I got for nothing. A buddy had a knock in his 99 Suburban so he replaced it with a junk yard engine. He gave me the knocking engine and paid me a couple hundred bucks to do the swap. Unless something is drastically wrong with it that engine will be my next 350 or 383.

I've posted this before. This was the price breakdown for my last 383 build:
383 related parts & labor:
Crankshaft ..............................................200
400 Balancer (used) ...................................30
Balance job .............................................200
Cut con rods for cam clearance.....................20
400 flywheel..............................................30
clearance block for con rod clearance.............15
ARP con rod bolts........................................38
Oil pump drive..............................................8
Oil pump sump..............................................9
Performance engine Kit: Sealed power moly rings,
Fel pro gaskets, con rod bearings, main bearings,
cam bearings, block plugs, 383 pistons, three piece
timing set, oil pump....................................317
R&R block plugs...........................................10
degrease block............................................35
deck block..................................................50
bore & deck-plate hone cyl(s)........................80
deck-plate charge........................................10
Remove, install, & fit cam bearings..................25
Recon con rods............................................80
Pin fit new pistons........................................28
Assemble short block.....................................75
Sales tax....................................................26.13
Total ===>.............................................$1286.13


When I was having the machine work done I got real busy at work and worked out a deal with my machine shop guy to assemble the short block for me.
About the only thing I'd do different is start with a roller block.
Because the price of the 383 "kit" is so low now creating a 383 out of a 350 block is almost a no brainer. If you have to clean up the bores - meaning if you need new pistons - you may as well get the kit that uses your existing connecting rods and a 400 crank. I used a crank out of a real 400. I believe you can get an aftermarket one pretty cheap these days. Other than the crank shaft, 400 flywheel, and balancer everything else is the same as what the general put on the small block at the factory. If you start with a vortec you'll be starting with way better heads than what I'm running in my truck with the 383 detailed above. And you'll have a roller camshaft so you don't have to worry about $7/quart oil with extra zinc.

Oh you'll notice there is not money on there for heads. I had just gone through those and simply re-used what I had. Add about $125/side to go through a set of used ones.

Oh. And that used 350 I got out of the sub has the serpentine belt system and accessories still on it which I've see people here pay up to $400 for.

[boynton6spd]

Have you thought about an LS series small block?
You can get a complete one from a wrecked car for $1000-$1500.
Aluminum block, 6 Bolt mains.
You can retrofit the fuel injection OR convert them to carbs as well.
I put a crate 502 in my 67 Impala and wish I would have done the LS Motor..
When I get an old truck, (my next project), that is exactly what I'm doing.

[406 Q-ship]

You could just put a roller hyd cam in the 350 currently in the truck, every cam manufacture makes a retro-fit kit. To be honest the oil thing is not as bad as everyone makes it out to be, there are plenty of additives and oils still have zinc. All of the engines that I currently run are flat tappets and I just add an engine oil suppliment. Now if the engine in your truck is tired, then of course get a later roller cam engine to rebuild. Check out the condition of the 350 in the truck now, a compress or leakdown test will tell you the health of that 350. Then with a head change for better flowing heads (it will bump the compression too), then a cam, a set of headers (I would do this but not necessary with the right cam choice), and a good quality dual plane intake (Performer RPM) will make that 350 a completely different animal.

[ArkGL01]

I looked at redoing mine and got offered a 385 fast burn chevy crate motor with 36k warranty that would drop right in for 5k.... I am saving my money now. 385hp 385 trq. It has everything and ready to go.

[dan42]

The motor is not really that tired. It actually runs and accelerates decent, but I want something with a little more pop...if a guy were to switch to an LS with fuel injection, how much more involved is it? I think you need to change fuel tanks/ fuel pumps, obviously a computer and some rewiring, I don't know about a radiator, engine mounts, throttle rod to cable, I'm sure there's a bunch I am missing - but from what I understand the driveability is much nicer and they are easier on gas. I go back and forth on this but whatever I change to, I want it to last and be dependable for long trips.

[cdowns]

quit choking it to death with a tiny inadequet flowing air filter and stock exhaust headers

LET IT BREATH