Shift linkage (cpp) help needed

[Budman56]

Does anyone have photos of the cpp shift linkage kit installed into their 60 thru 66 truck? I purchased one and installed it but it doesnt work right and i think i probably installed it wrong. I wasnt sure how to bend it so thats what im really looking for. Clear photos of how you bent it from the steering column to the the linkage on the trans. By the way its a turbo 350 auto trans.

[MikeN]

What type of transmission are you using? Sounds like we have the same problem, although I'm trying to make the stock linkage work. Here's the thread I started...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=522430

[losthope]

heres the link to the step by step instructions, I think i posted it on a thread you started before asking a couple questions , and the same question on the linkage and if i remember correctly you have your shifting arm lever bolted to the trans wrong and have it in the 11 o'clock postion and needs to be in the 8' o'clock postion like picture #3 in this link:
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...geStoryweb.pdf
id double check everything with these instructions and sure you'll figure it out...

[losthope]

in your thread on your driveline on post #34 you show a picture of your linkage with the trans in "park" and the lever is in 11 0'clock position which is wrong needs to be 8 oclock:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=515709&page=2
If you already cut the rod with it in the 11 o'clock postion you might have messed up and be "SOL" and have to buy a new rod.

[losthope]

Heres your picture from post #34 on your driveline thread, as you can see when you move your shifter all the rod is doing is sliding up and down the shifting arm slot on the trans and not able to move the shifting arm.....

The red line i drew is where it is supposed to be, and if in that postion it will push the arm down when you shift into gears and pull the arm up when to shift into park:

[Budman56]

Originally Posted by losthope

heres your picture from post #34 on your driveline thread, as you can see when you move your shifter all the rod is doing is sliding up and down the shifting arm slot on the trans and not able to move the shifting arm.....

The red line i drew is where it is supposed to be, and if in that postion it will push the arm down when you shift into gears and pull the arm up when to shift into park:

thank you for your input on this matter, but i did correct the 11 to 8 position, and thus the linkage was then too short. So i tried to rebend the linkage and thus broke it. Now i will have to get a new one and start all over and i just dont want to waste the money if it will not work correctly. I was looking for photo's of one that had all ready been bent to see what i had to do to bend my new shift linkage. The reason the photo showed it in the 11 oclock position was because the rod was too short after i bent it. The linkage was not sliding up and down the slot it was tight. The problem was that it was hard to shift, i had to jerk on the column lever to get it to shift to drive and i knew that wasnt correct.

SO FOR ME, I NOW WONDERING IF SOMETHING ABOUT MY COLUMN IS DIFFERNT AND IF THAT COULD BE THE REASON THE ROD IS TOO SHORT.

[padresag]

it is just a rod. just buy some of the appropriate dia and thread the end
ron

[chevyguys]

There is a bit of science to using the CPP (Lokar) linkage. It is very important to have the transmission shift lever arm at 6 o'clock in "Drive". This is because of two reasons..

1. The arms needs to be able to move forwards and backwards without binding the shift linkage.

2. VERY important! if the Arm is in any other location the torque of the motor will move the linkage up or down or vibrate the column to death. At 6'oclock most of the vibration of the motor is absorbed by the end links.

I had this issue in my 65 Chevelle. As soon as I moved it to 6 o'clock in drive all vibration went away. A buddy of mine also had the same issue with his 65 GMC and we moved it... problem solved.

[losthope]

If all you broke i the rod then i would just goto the hardware store and pickup a new rod or even a piece of all thread the same size,...First you might want to get the lever in the right spot and make sure the coloumn i in the right spot take a piece of stiff wire and bend up a mock up rod to make sure your angles are correct and then bend the replacement rod to match, might even use a torch to heat the metal up a bit to make it easier to bend...... A piece of stiff wire and a rod from the hardware store should work and would save you money from buying a whole new setup...easy fix.....just my 2 cents best of luck!

[50bomb]

I just installed one of these in my 67 chevy c10 and my problem I am having is getting the Hex connector to to all the way down so i can tie the set screws in. Right now the rod is right below the first Set screw so I can not even tie them down with either yet. I have everything installed though othter than that and it shifts. I have along ways till I can even drive this truck.

[Budman56]

Originally Posted by 50bomb

I just installed one of these in my 67 chevy c10 and my problem I am having is getting the Hex connector to to all the way down so i can tie the set screws in. Right now the rod is right below the first Set screw so I can not even tie them down with either yet. I have everything installed though othter than that and it shifts. I have along ways till I can even drive this truck.

did you get your linkage fixed? I had to grind the end down to make it fit the hex nut. but I still cant get the index to line up with the correct gear that it is in when I shift.

[Budman56]

any one have any input on this, I still cant line up the gears with the indicator.