Couple questions for guys laying frame with 67-72 trucks

[Jayschevy]

I'm not new to bagging trucks but I am new to bagging C10 trucks. I currently have a bagged 88 Chevy and yesterday purchased a 71 C10 that I plan to bag. When it comes to bagging the C10 my 2 questions are;

What did you guys do with your exhaust? My pipes hang a whole lot lower than my frame. I just need to know what are my options things look a little tight under the truck. Pictures would be great.

Also what is my best option to lay my front out without z ing the frame or getting a dropmember? Will tublar upper and lowers work? What are my options?

Any help would be appreciated.

Here's the 71 I purchased at a great price.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/IMG_1527.jpg

Here's my exhaust
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/IMG_1520.jpg

Here's my 88, will probably up for sale soon
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/IMG_0251.jpg

Thanks

[N2TRUX]

Welcome to the forum Jayschevy. Looks like its out with the new(er) and in with the old(er). The first thing you need to know about 67-72 trucks (and 73-87's) is the first thing to hit the ground when you go low is the front crossmember. To get your frame on the ground you will need to make some decisions on how you want to go about it.

Tubular A arms will not help at this point. The most common choice on this forum is to add an aftermarket crossmember. There are several manufacturers of bolt in or weld on style suspensions offered by our forum vendors.

If for some reason you don't see the value in a dropped crossmember, you can raise or pancake the stock unit. Beyond that your looking at a frame Z.

[502ms]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Welcome to the forum Jayschevy. Looks like its out with the new(er) and in with the old(er). The first thing you need to know about 67-72 trucks (and 73-87's) is the first thing to hit the ground when you go low is the front crossmember. To get your frame on the ground you will need to make some decisions on how you want to go about it.

Tubular A arms will not help at this point. The most common choice on this forum is to add an aftermarket crossmember. There are several manufacturers of bolt in or weld on style suspensions offered by our forum vendors.

If for some reason you don't see the value in a dropped crossmember, you can raise or pancake the stock unit. Beyond that your looking at a frame Z.

I agree.

My truck has about a 3" z, drop spindles, four link rear. I recommend the porterbuilt if you don't want to do the Z. Now, for exhaust, the long tube headers have to be replaced with short tube headers. I used Sanderson shorty headers. They have a lifetime warranty, and the truck did not lose any low end grunt with the trade off. My exhaust dumps right in front of the axle under the bed...hidden
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[andrewmp6]

The dropmember centers the wheels in the fender openings it narrows the track a tiny bit and you get rack and pinon.I wouldn't z the frame its a lot of work and in the end your still running the old oem set up that probably is shot.On the exhaust most run shorty headers and tuck the exhaust up in the frame and use turn downs after the mufflers.

[502ms]

One thing I disagree with is anything being shot on the frame, replacing the equipment on the z'd frame is achieving the same goals, just in a different way. I agree that shocks and ball joints, etc should be replaced at the time of the upgrade, and if you want, the uca/lca as well. Just as a note, I have put 10,000 trouble-free miles on this setup with no issues. The take away is ensuring that you upgrade the equipment that is needed...it will be evident if you don't.
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[Jayschevy]

Originally Posted by 502ms

I agree.

My truck has about a 3" z, drop spindles, four link rear. I recommend the porterbuilt if you don't want to do the Z. Now, for exhaust, the long tube headers have to be replaced with short tube headers. I used Sanderson shorty headers. They have a lifetime warranty, and the truck did not lose any low end grunt with the trade off. My exhaust dumps right in front of the axle under the bed...hidden
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Thanks everyone for some great information.
502ms, do you have any pictures of how your exhaust is ran underneath your truck?

[gumbys10]

If you check out the dropmember websites like porterbuilt, there is a trailing arm crossmember you can replace the stock one with that allows the exhaust to run through it and help bring back the pinion angle and trailing arm axle closer to stock. You will still probably need to shim the diff. I recommend a watts link, but there is nothing wrong with a panhard bar. I definetley recommend going to a drop member, as they are mostly a bolt on, brings everything up in the chassis, and you could use stock control arms, but I would also recommend the tubular arms and rack and pinion steering gear. Check them out, they look very good for these trucks, and you can go complete bolt on, or weld on with alot of choices from different companies.

[Pro Performance]

If you are looking to lay frame in the front, then the Porterbuilt is the way to go, by far. You still get pretty low by just laying the factory crossmember on the ground, but if you want to go all the way, then the dropmember is your best solution.

[502ms]

On my next truck, I am definitely going Porterbuilt. I spent just as much on this setup as the drop members...
I will get some pics of the exhaust for you ASAP
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