back brake bleeder may be stripped

[powerT]

was going to bleed the brakes but it looks like the previous owner stripped both of the back bleeders. Any idea how to fix this problem ?
im not sure when the last time the bleeders where turned

[Dsquared]

sounds like you're gonna have to replace the wheel cylinders

[Johnc10]

What he said ^ if you go replace them, it would be a good idea to get a hardware kit for the breaks. Hope ya get back up and running soon
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[old Rusty C10]

ive had success with a vise grip but in all likelyhood you will be replacing the wheel cylinders soon

[84_chevy]

That's how I ended up doing a complete brake job lines and all. It started with a couple rusty break bleeders, who of thought that.

Good luck :P

[powerT]

After i replace the wheel cylinders what wrench do you all use on the bleeders there in btween a couple of bolts (maybe an off set wrench )
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[motornut]

soak them with penatrating oil...PB blaster works good
I have a almost foot long skinny wrench 1/4 an 5/16,just for those
sometimes they loosen wiggling vise gripes back and forth,sometimes they snap
good luck!

[silvereagle07]

I have good success using kroil penetrating oil. The use a brake bleeding wrench. They are double box end 6pt wrenches. But good luck they have a tendency to snap off when they are frozen. Use the same oil if you have to replace they cylinders but use a line wrench for the brake line.lineup
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[old Rusty C10]

back in the day we used to call them line wrenches.. they have a smaller opening and they grab more sides of the bolt making it harder to strip. I forgot to mention spray the heck outta it with penetrating oil

[hatzie]

I'd replace the wheel cylinders. They're usually less than $20 for a pair. The bleeder threads seize from both ends because the rubber bleeder caps are always missing letting salty winter water get inside the bleeder.

Usually the short steel axle brake lines give me fits at the wheel cylinders. I just assume I need to replace them. They are a fairly cheap short run to the brass tee fitting on the end of the rubber frame to axle line above the pumpkin. Cut the steel lines off close to their fitting leaving the hex sticking out of the tee. Then you can unscrew the stubs from the tee with a snug fitting 6 point socket. Spray the crap out of them with PB Blaster the night before you get started.

I push the new fittings back from the flare and wipe a thin layer of never-seeze on the steel line and on the threads as well as the bleeders. Rubber bleeder caps are cheap. I check em as part of my PM routine every 5K or so just to be sure they are present.

[donut]

Originally Posted by powerT

After i replace the wheel cylinders what wrench do you all use on the bleeders there in btween a couple of bolts (maybe an off set wrench )
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I use a small socket to break it loose (leave it snug) then a wrench to finish.
I believe it was 5/16", but you'll have to check for sure. A standard wrench will fit. I just tighten them back down with the socket, then I don't round off the new bleeders.