k series front driveshaft help!!

[mud slut 350]

ok so i have an 82 k10 i put a sm465/205 combo in it from a 350/208 combo. I had to cut the front driveshaft about 6 inches shorter. i did it myself and lesson learned it came out crooked and messed up the double cardan joint. now ive been looking at this website dennysdriveshaft.com and they seem to have a lot of options and parts for these driveshafts. so i see they have a cv elimintor. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p128...50_series.html and what it looks like is that it basically makes your front driveshaft into a "normal" driveshaft without the cardan/cv joint. I hate these joints they fail too easy and was wondering if anyone has ever tried this option and if so is there any disadvantages to it? i mean it makes sense only 2 u joints to worry about and makes life easy when changing them. im really considering this. anyone with any info let me know!

[special-K]

To me,it doesn't make sense to eliminate the double cardon joint. They are an improvement over the old single u-joint and are necessary due to the short length of the front driveshaft on non-divorced transfer cases. I have never had a single problem with failure on these on the many trucks I've run for many years.That's one of the benefits,they last longer due to dividing the stress created by running on an angle. If anything,I see guys modding their trucks to "add" a double cardon when lifting and/or shortening driveshafts for double transfer cases or on Jeeps,K/5s,etc when going big.

[jjzepplin]

I agree. I have run these for years and have an abusive driving habit-tee-hee. I would go to your local driveshaft shop and see if they could make you one. I run one in the front and the rear as well. The rear is a custom Tom Woods Shaft and has held up well for over ten years. I took it in after a bad accident and there was a seal in the joint that needed replacing but otherwise in good shape. While there I was "schooled" in why I should not attempt to cut my own shaft.

[mud slut 350]

I beg to differ I have had 3 of them go bad outside of the one that was my fault for cutting it myself. I would rather buy one with 2 u joints so I can repair it myself. It costs 250 ish to have the cardan fixed. And if i get lifetime u joints on it then I'd rather do that than deal with a cardan.
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[special-K]

I guess you have bad luck. I have been running lifted 4wds with 37" tires since 1977 and have never needed to repair a double cardon joint. I have broken axles,u-joints,ring & pinions,and even peeled an intermediate drive shaft in two in a divorced trans/transfer case truck. Why do you think serious 4-wheelers install them where they weren't by the factory? Because it's better. Why do you think world class driveshaft specialists make double cardon set-ups? I dunno,I'm a hard head and see things how I see them no matter what anyone says. So,I understand if you still think you're better off without a double cardon. But,I also do listen when those with vast experience offer advise and you did ask.

[odog]

I like the double cardon style joints, but on two occasions I have had them fail,and when they do fail, they are kind of a pain to fix. Both were on the front driveshaft on my 78 bronco. I also found that the front drive shafts for the 78 79 f150s and broncos were the same as the shafts on 67 72 chevys.

[BLAZERMAN]

I have to agree on this..I've had the double cardon joint an many rigs and never had one fail. The only ones I've had trouble with are the ones on used rigs I've bought that never saw any grease. If they go too long without grease in the center ball socket it will ruin the centering yoke..and that runs about 50 bucks.
I get the 2 Spicer joints and the centering ball and seal kit here for under 100 bucks... add the centering yoke for 50 if ya need it and thats 150 bucks top and there not that hard to rebuild. Theres just not anyting else in there to get hurt unless the H yoke is getting beat on somehow.