Swap the whole dang thing..axle/springs/brackets

[SunSoaked]

I think I have a plan. I have decided to drill out the rivots on each spring to frame bracket and swap the 14BFF along with the springs and brackets in one shot. The brackets are a little longer on the 1008 and should give a 1-2 inch lift just by itself. I figure as long as I mark the frame rails in line with the centerline of the current axle and install the "new" one in the same location it should be right. I am assuming both front and rear brackets will be in different locations since the springs are 56'" vs 52". Thinking 7/16 or 1/2 bolts to replace the rivots?

This almost sounds too easy. Am I setting myself up for having to wear donkey ears?

[BLAZERMAN]

Are the outside frame width deminsions exactly the same at the mounting points between the two frames? if so then I dont see why it wouldnt work

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by BLAZERMAN

Are the outside frame width deminsions exactly the same at the mounting points between the two frames? if so then I dont see why it wouldnt work

Yep- Both are 34 inches outside frame rails from the cab all the way back.

[BLAZERMAN]

Then theres no reason you couldnt do it..only thing I see is that your M1008 frame is taller and your brackets extend all the way to the top of the frame rail...when switched over to your other frame they will just have to be trimmed down a bit and new holes drilled for mounting..nothing major.

[BLAZERMAN]

I just figured the 1008 frame was taller..after looking at your pics it doesnt look any taller...they may be the same heigth in that area.

[OldCreek]

I count 48 rivets to drill out...doesn't sound so easy to me.

And probably 48 holes to drill!

I believed I used 3/8" fine thread...that's just about the same diameter of the rivets.

Good luck!

[OldCreek]

Oh, don't forget the shock mounts...

and driveline length, and u-joint size...

perhaps the flexible brake line length and rebleeding the cylinder...

and maybe e-brake lines?


And MOST importantly, the pictures!

[muddstir]

It's not real hard removing the leaf mounts, I did it on mine. I didn't drill my rivets out, to me it would be to hard to keep the bit centered in the rivet. I took the angle grinder and ground the out side heads off, then took a pair of junk vice grips with a punch locked in them and hit them out with a 2lb hammer. drilled the holes out with a 7/16 bit and bolted them on with 7/16 grade 8 bolts and flanged top lock nuts. You would be surprised how fast the rivets come out once you get in the groove of things. I did all the leaf mounts, cross braces including the motor bay, cab mounts, and most of the little brackets.

[mrdana60]

would you sell the hangers off your old frame ? if so i will buy them .

[SunSoaked]

I removed rivots recently (for the first time) when I swapped in the burb fuel tank. I had good luck by centerpunching the center of the rivot head and then drilling with a 1/2 bit in a 1/2 inch drill at low speed. Don't have to drill deep, just enough to pop the head off of the rivot shank (about 1/4 inch). Then took a drift and whacked it with a large hammer and they popped right out. Averaged about 1 minute per rivot. This assumes you have a good straight shot at it.

I was swapping in the axle anyway, I just figured it would be easier and cleaner to sway everything as a unit. Driveline, brakeline, shock mounts, etc have to be changed anyway.

mrdana60- Yes. It might be a few weeks before I get it done.

I also plan to "box" in the frame rails. The 1008 frame is thicker steel, and since I will basically be converting to a 1 ton, I dont know if the stock c10 could actually handle it if it were ever used that way. Cheap insurance.

[muddstir]

I was woundering if you could get me a couple of measurements off of your one frame with the 56in rear leafs. If you could, I need the measurement from the end of the frame to the center of the frist top rivet/ hole on the rear leaf mount. Then from the center of the top rivet / hole thats closest to the axle on the rear leaf mount to the center of the top rivet / hole thats closest to axle on the front leaf mount ( for the rear axle). Thank you.

[mrdana60]

ok let me know. i need both front and rear hangers for the rear. thanks

[jjzepplin]

I remove the rivets by die grinding a cross thru the center of each rivet and then air chiseling of the heads and air hammering the rest thru the other end. I do have a Snap-On long-throw air hammer though. Quick business and clean. 3/8" bolt fits right in.

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by muddstir

I was woundering if you could get me a couple of measurements off of your one frame with the 56in rear leafs. If you could, I need the measurement from the end of the frame to the center of the frist top rivet/ hole on the rear leaf mount. Then from the center of the top rivet / hole thats closest to the axle on the rear leaf mount to the center of the top rivet / hole thats closest to axle on the front leaf mount ( for the rear axle). Thank you.

Will do. I'll get them tomorrow.

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by muddstir

I was woundering if you could get me a couple of measurements off of your one frame with the 56in rear leafs. If you could, I need the measurement from the end of the frame to the center of the frist top rivet/ hole on the rear leaf mount. Then from the center of the top rivet / hole thats closest to the axle on the rear leaf mount to the center of the top rivet / hole thats closest to axle on the front leaf mount ( for the rear axle). Thank you.

OK muddstir, I got everything off today.

All measurements are from center of rivots.

Frame to center-8 5/8ths inch.
"inboard" upper rivots- 48 1/4 inch.

My M1008 is the military version of the 87 1 ton P/U. I assume the brackets are the same for 1/2, 3/4 (only the spring packs/axles are different), but I cant guarantee it.

[muddstir]

Thank you for taking the time to get me the measurements , thats just what I needed.