...rear brakes (drums) help!!! Brake valve stem is frozen to driver's wheel cylinder

[CEE1NG_RED]

I am trying to change my old wheel cylinders (front/rears) and rear brake shoe since the previous owner used a set that had the long shoe facing the rear/back and cannot be flipped around (well one side, which is the drivers rear, but not the passenger rear). So, I went to Autozone and bought me a new set of rear shoes, and used my old brake drums from my '67 C10.

Now question: I just finished my rear passenger w/ new brake shoes and reused my old drums, but when rotating the tire (passenger rear) on jackstands it moves freely on reverse. However, it requires some good force when rotating forward. What gives? Is it the parking brake that's causing this friction? The star adjuster is screwed all the way in until I have installed all the wheel cylinders and replaced my rear brake shoes. Also, when rotating the driver's side rear wheel forward/front, the passenger rear tire is moving the other direction (reverse). Is that normal???

I am also having a hard time removing the rear driver wheel cylinder. The brake line valve screw from the driver's rear that's connected to the wheel cylinder will not budge!. I don't want to strip the bolt so much or I'll have to get a new set of lines so what are some ways to remove this? I have used PBlaster, vise grips, and monkey wrench, but no avail. So I'm letting the PBblaster soak overnight, but if that does not work....are there any suggestions? Here's a pic of the valve screw I am talking about! I hope the previous owner did not put loctite on it!!!!! The passenger rear was easier to remove so I hope not.

[fleetman]

yes let it soak for a few days with penetrant

[cdowns]

the long brake shoe is supposed to face the rear sounds like the previous owner had it right

[leddzepp]

I would buy a set of flare nut wrenches...or else you will end up stripping all the nuts on your brake lines.

[68SHORTBOX]

You can remove the wheel cylinder without removing the bleeder screw. Just disconect the brake line and then remove the two bolts that hold the cylinder in place. If the brake line is the problem you may just have to get a new section of line. From the looks of the brake line nut the proper wrench was not used in the past attempts break it loose. If you are trying vice-grips make sure to clamp them on the flats of the nut so you don't destroy the whole nut. A shot of PB down the top of the bleeder will help get it freeded up also.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Originally Posted by cdowns

the long brake shoe is supposed to face the rear sounds like the previous owner had it right

The previous owner had the short shoes facing the rear instead of the long shoe, so he did not have it right.

Originally Posted by leddzepp

I would buy a set of flare nut wrenches...or else you will end up stripping all the nuts on your brake lines.

I bought me 2 sets (one metric and other standard) from Habor Frieght for $10 per set of 5 flare nut wrenches! Thanks.

Originally Posted by 68SHORTBOX

You can remove the wheel cylinder without removing the bleeder screw. Just disconect the brake line and then remove the two bolts that hold the cylinder in place. If the brake line is the problem you may just have to get a new section of line. From the looks of the brake line nut the proper wrench was not used in the past attempts break it loose. If you are trying vice-grips make sure to clamp them on the flats of the nut so you don't destroy the whole nut. A shot of PB down the top of the bleeder will help get it freeded up also.

PB finally worked and I was able to take out the valve stem from the wheel cylinder. Cleaned it up w/ a wire brush and sprayed some brake cleaner on the threads followed by the thread sealant (white) not the loctite!!

[starvinartis]

In answer to the wheels turning opposite: completely normal on a non-posi