cummins swap help

[wwj75c30]

im gonna be doing a cummins swap soon into my 75 c30 dually 2wd whevnever i sell my 73 c20 ill be buying a 92 12v cummins for $600 running and comlete

i have a few questions, do i need to modify my crossmember? i can make the motor mounts

can i use my stock raditor? and will my dana 70 rear end hold?

[v30crewcab]

haven't done a 2wd, pretty sure the crossmember is ok though.
as long as its not the super long 6.2 rad it will work, if you're gonna run an intercooler. I ran a 2 row in mine for several years no problems.
the 70 should be fine. they used them in the automatic cummins trucks.

[wwj75c30]

would i be fine without a intercooler for a while since i dont drive it everyday? and there pretty easy to hook up? i was told i need fuel and eltric for the starter and i way to shut it off. thanks

[Dieselwrencher]

Yes, you will be fine without no intercooler, especially if it's stock. Like V30 said, the cross member should be ok. Make sure your radiator is a 4 core at least. As for the wiring, 12v key on power to the shut off solenoid on the injection pump, your signal wire to the starter, and if you use the dodge alt get a voltage regulator from a 78 or 79 dodge and you can wire it up and run the alt. Not really bad on them.

[wwj75c30]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Yes, you will be fine without no intercooler, especially if it's stock. Like V30 said, the cross member should be ok. Make sure your radiator is a 4 core at least. As for the wiring, 12v key on power to the shut off solenoid on the injection pump, your signal wire to the starter, and if you use the dodge alt get a voltage regulator from a 78 or 79 dodge and you can wire it up and run the alt. Not really bad on them.

ok cool thank you
yeah the motor will be stock i wanna get the 32k gov spring denny t fuel pin and turn it up alil. so in all its not that hard of a swap? and do you know if ill be able to fit a 4" down pipe?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by wwj75c30

ok cool thank you
yeah the motor will be stock i wanna get the 32k gov spring denny t fuel pin and turn it up alil. so in all its not that hard of a swap? and do you know if ill be able to fit a 4" down pipe?

The swap isn't hard per say, it's all the little stuff that takes the longest. You should be able to fit the 4" ok. Depending on where the engine ends up being can make or brake you due to the heater housing if your truck has factory a/c. It can get real tight in that area.

[wwj75c30]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

The swap isn't hard per say, it's all the little stuff that takes the longest. You should be able to fit the 4" ok. Depending on where the engine ends up being can make or brake you due to the heater housing if your truck has factory a/c. It can get real tight in that area.

its a non a/c truck so would that make it alil easier? and do you know if motor mounts are hard to make? i renember reading one of your threads were you made them or make them?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by wwj75c30

its a non a/c truck so would that make it alil easier? and do you know if motor mounts are hard to make? i renember reading one of your threads were you made them or make them?

Oh yeah, a non a/c truck will be a breeze to get the turbo in there and run 4" exhaust in. Building mounts isn't that bad. I usually place the engine where I want it, build my cross member, then build the mounts. Since your 2 wheel drive, you can skip the build the cross member step. I'm doing a 88 V2500 burb now. Hopefully soon I'll have the mounts done in it.

[wwj75c30]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Oh yeah, a non a/c truck will be a breeze to get the turbo in there and run 4" exhaust in. Building mounts isn't that bad. I usually place the engine where I want it, build my cross member, then build the mounts. Since your 2 wheel drive, you can skip the build the cross member step. I'm doing a 88 V2500 burb now. Hopefully soon I'll have the mounts done in it.

perfect lol and ill try that my dads a good welder so ill trust his work. how long do swaps usually take? my dads friend said he can do it within a week

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by wwj75c30

perfect lol and ill try that my dads a good welder so ill trust his work. how long do swaps usually take? my dads friend said he can do it within a week

You probably can do a 2wd 12v if you have an uninterpreted week. I haven't done one in a week and don't for see to be able to do a nice job on one in a week either. Mine always have more than usual to do.

[wwj75c30]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

You probably can do a 2wd 12v if you have an uninterpreted week. I haven't done one in a week and don't for see to be able to do a nice job on one in a week either. Mine always have more than usual to do.

lol yea id prob have a uniterpreted week to do it and its probally gonna be stock for awhile until i can afford some twins and good injectors and built tranny. thinkin about transmissions what would be a good one to use?

[poloaa008]

Like V30 said, the cross member should be ok. Make sure your radiator is a 4 core at least.

[v30crewcab]

I really wouldn't be concerned with the 4core rad. I had a 2 core in mine for 5 years, no problems. and I towed BIG stuff with it. I brought a 53 chevy cabover 2 ton back from South Dakota no problems. also have a friend that pulls a 38ft gooseneck with his and a 2 core no problems.
make sure to post a build thread.

[wwj75c30]

Originally Posted by v30crewcab

I really wouldn't be concerned with the 4core rad. I had a 2 core in mine for 5 years, no problems. and I towed BIG stuff with it. I brought a 53 chevy cabover 2 ton back from South Dakota no problems. also have a friend that pulls a 38ft gooseneck with his and a 2 core no problems.
make sure to post a build thread.

oh okay cool. i was told mines a 4 core in my truck right now so thats one les thing ill need lol my truck probally wont tow that much just wood most likely and maybe friends cars/trucks
and ill post a build thread just gotta get the motor first

[wwj75c30]

Originally Posted by v30crewcab

I really wouldn't be concerned with the 4core rad. I had a 2 core in mine for 5 years, no problems. and I towed BIG stuff with it. I brought a 53 chevy cabover 2 ton back from South Dakota no problems. also have a friend that pulls a 38ft gooseneck with his and a 2 core no problems.
make sure to post a build thread.

what tranny did you use?

[6lcummins]

Originally Posted by wwj75c30

what tranny did you use?

He has a NV4500 in his truck. If you are going with an AUTO they aren't the cheapest but then again a NV4500 swap isn't cheap either. Depending how you want it set up they can run $3800-6000 depending on the build.

[wwj75c30]

Originally Posted by 6lcummins

He has a NV4500 in his truck. If you are going with an AUTO they aren't the cheapest but then again a NV4500 swap isn't cheap either. Depending how you want it set up they can run $3800-6000 depending on the build.

i was thinkin about a 727? just build it up alil bit since the motor wont be makin any crazy power anytime soon. whats a ok auto to use?

[wwj75c30]

so i just need all the help and advice i could use
so for all you who have helped thank you and whoevers will to give some help thank you also

will i have to make a custom throttle linkage?

[6lcummins]

Originally Posted by wwj75c30

i was thinkin about a 727? just build it up alil bit since the motor wont be makin any crazy power anytime soon. whats a ok auto to use?

This will depend on how you plan on using it. The 727 gives the least amount of options as far as aftermaket goes. If you aren't planning on doing anything other than maybe injectors and the pin and some pump tweaks, then a rebuilt 727 with a better single disc converter, modified valve body, and a rebuild will last a decent amount of time. Roughly $3800 if I remember correctly.

Now if you plan on doing the compound turbos down the road I would ditch the 727 and find a 47RH or 47RE to build to withstand the power and abuse that comes with having compounds. This is because there is only one company that offers an updated flexplate for the 727 and the other internal parts are hard to come by. With the 47RH or 47RE I would suggest a billet input, billet triple disc covnerter, upgraded valve body, apply levers and bands, this way you know the trans will hold what you are going to throw at it. It will not be cheap but it's similar to the cost of a NV4500 and a dual disc clutch.

[wwj75c30]

Originally Posted by 6lcummins

This will depend on how you plan on using it. The 727 gives the least amount of options as far as aftermaket goes. If you aren't planning on doing anything other than maybe injectors and the pin and some pump tweaks, then a rebuilt 727 with a better single disc converter, modified valve body, and a rebuild will last a decent amount of time. Roughly $3800 if I remember correctly.

Now if you plan on doing the compound turbos down the road I would ditch the 727 and find a 47RH or 47RE to build to withstand the power and abuse that comes with having compounds. This is because there is only one company that offers an updated flexplate for the 727 and the other internal parts are hard to come by. With the 47RH or 47RE I would suggest a billet input, billet triple disc covnerter, upgraded valve body, apply levers and bands, this way you know the trans will hold what you are going to throw at it. It will not be cheap but it's similar to the cost of a NV4500 and a dual disc clutch.

oh okay thanks. makes more sence to spend more to build a stronger tranny.
now i just gotta find a 47RH or 47RE lol i only cummins trannys ive seen on local craigslist are nv4500's

[mikev]

600 for a runnign complete 12v?

Wow, that's cheap.

BTW I saw your truck on CL. Glad you decided to keep it.

[6lcummins]

Originally Posted by wwj75c30

oh okay thanks. makes more sence to spend more to build a stronger tranny.
now i just gotta find a 47RH or 47RE lol i only cummins trannys ive seen on local craigslist are nv4500's

If you can find an RH I'd go that route as you won't have to do as much wiring. And it is always hard to advise people/customers what to spend money on and how to mod the transmission as it's never cheap and it usually scares them on pricing.

[Dieselwrencher]

If mileage isn't a huge concern, then an A518 from a dodge cummins is the way you can go cheaply. This is basically a 727 with an over drive, and a stronger case. That's the route I'd go for cheap. And the 727s and A518s will not require a disc in the torque converter because they are not lock up. These torque converters are a lot cheaper than one for a lock up trans. If you set up the truck right as far as gearing, you can still acieve great mileage. Dodge used 3:07's with most of the 727s. If your truck has a chevy D70HD, I'd try to find 3:73's, but 3:55s or higher would be better for you.

[wwj75c30]

Originally Posted by mikev

600 for a runnign complete 12v?

Wow, that's cheap.

BTW I saw your truck on CL. Glad you decided to keep it.

yea its from a friend

and yea i turned down $3k for it i was gonna buy a 91.5 first gen cummins 4x4 or a 91 2wd 5speed for $3200

[wwj75c30]

Originally Posted by 6lcummins

If you can find an RH I'd go that route as you won't have to do as much wiring. And it is always hard to advise people/customers what to spend money on and how to mod the transmission as it's never cheap and it usually scares them on pricing.

yea my frind said i should do a rh or a518