Ignition Switch Question

[CRGRS 66]

I have a 66C10. The ignition switch has three positions (not including the engine start sprung position). So off obviously, then the mystery position, and run. Is the position between off and run an accessory position? Sometimes I would like to run my radio with the engine off, but don't want to have the ignition on and cook the points etc. I have tried using a test light to see if there is power on any of the leads on the back of the ignition switch when the key is in this position, but no lighty upy!

[markeb01]

Mine doesn’t work that way. Off is straight up. To the left one notch (11:00) is accessory. One notch to the right of off (1:00) is on/run, and one more notch to the right is start.

Perhaps you're switch is badly worn, or maybe there was a change in the pattern by 1966, but on every GM car I can remember owning accessory was always to the left of off.

[CRGRS 66]

The straight up and down position essentially unlocks the cylinder, the switch can then be operated without the key. This is the position that would make sense if it were an accessory position, but I am wondering if it is just an unlocked position only.

Hopefully someone else posts on this

[markeb01]

It almost sounds like a 1954 Chevy passenger car ignition switch. As shown in this photo of a 54 bezel, the far left position was Lock. This was the only position needing a key. If the key was removed in the off position, the car could be operated on/start/off without a key. And because there is very little securing the orientation of the switch, the lock position could easily be rotated to 12:00.

As best I remember the Lock position mechanically locked the ignition switch only. I don’t think the accessory electric position had been developed yet.



Hopefully someone with more direct 1966 experience with chime in.

[CRGRS 66]

My 57 SWB SS had this type of switch, but it had a raised area that you could start and stop the engine with conveniently without the key once unlocked (I always assumed this was a"farm" option). This one is flat, you still need to put something in the key way, but only just far enough as to leverage it to turn.

[CRGRS 66]

I would like to have an accessory function on my ignition switch.

I want to leave the ignition switch in the instrument bezel mind you.

Has anyone ever made a mod like this?

[fleetsidelarry]

my '66 works just like Markeb01's. while in the full left position, the key cannot be removed. interestingly, my '61 panel has a switch like you say your '57 had.

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by markeb01

Mine doesn’t work that way. Off is straight up. To the left one notch (11:00) is accessory. One notch to the right of off (1:00) is on/run, and one more notch to the right is start.

Perhaps you're switch is badly worn, or maybe there was a change in the pattern by 1966, but on every GM car I can remember owning accessory was always to the left of off.

My 66 was this way as well. There was no "lock". There was accessory at 10'oclock - off at 12 - on at 2 - starter at 3.

[1963c-10]

My 63 has the original ignition with no accessory. Have one click right for run & two to right to start. Have a 61 the same way.

[64shortbox]

My 64 is the same way. No ACC position. Lock, Unlock, On, Start. To be able to listen to the radio etc. the ignition must be in the on position.

[argonaut]

Dragging up an old thread...
Has anyone successfully swapped in another ignition switch that looks and fits appropriately but gives a true accessory position?

Does a switch from a 72 fit into the 66 hole and have the same threads? Seems like that would be an easy solution.

[par4tom]

To power the radio with the key off, there is a relatively easy fix.

Pick up a constant 12v signal (that means it has power even when the key is off) and connect that to the 12v turn on wire on the deck. I'd pick the constant 12v signal from the 12v wire feeding power to the deck.


Then...place a simple toggle switch in line. This way, when the key is off, you can still listen to the radio by flipping the3 switch.

AND...if you want to get really fancy, leave the existing 12v turn on wire from the ignition hooked up to this same 12v turn on wire to the radio. This way, when you turn the key, the deck always fires up without having to hassle with the toggle switch. And when you want to listen to the radio without the key, no problem. Just flick the toggle switch.

[argonaut]

Yeah, that is too much of a band-aid kind of fix for me.
I did find this: 1963-1965 Chevy/GMC Ignition Switch,"ACC-LOCK-OFF-IGN-START" Pattern, Also Fits 1962-1964 Chevy II & Nova

[CRGRS 66]

Awesome, book marked that! Will order one of those for certain, thanks!

[argonaut]

Yeah. I'm also going to check out the 67-72 ignition switch tomorrow morning at the truck shop. If it will fit the hole in the dash then it would just require depinning my 66 connector and putting those wires into a 67-72 connector.

[CRGRS 66]

Do post your findings, the 67-72 ignition switch a wee cheaper than the one you found there. I just didn't want to order a 67-72 and have it not fit/work in mine.

[aerotruk63]

[forestb]

I have the same problem. It is funny because whenever I take it to a mechanic they always leave it in the center position with the key removed. What they do not realize by doing this is you can then start the truck with a screw driver. I think it is because it was never installed properly. It was never locked into position using the little pin holes in the side. The ring unscrews from the cylinder without unlocking it with the pin holes.

[Rich 5150 69]

Originally Posted by argonaut

Yeah, that is too much of a band-aid kind of fix for me.
I did find this: 1963-1965 Chevy/GMC Ignition Switch,"ACC-LOCK-OFF-IGN-START" Pattern, Also Fits 1962-1964 Chevy II & Nova

This is the switch I had replaced mine with, they ( vendors ) all sell the same unit, mine was about four years old when one day leaving the hardware store it literally fell apart when I inserted key and turned it, the crimped area around the base had allowed the internals to fall out, I was not happy....looking for some thing else a little better...

[kingburnett]

Here is how I fixed my 61 with a NAPA part
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ight=dash+hole

[argonaut]

I managed to initially stump the guy at Truck Shop this morning. But he looked in his book from his switch vendor and found me a switch: 61-63 impala switch. I also examined the 67-72 switch, but didn't buy this switch. My notes are below.

60-66 Pickup Switch
LOCK - OFF - IGN - START
We all know how this works: Power to the ACC pin is cut when turned to the START position, but there is no key position that applies power to only the ACC pin.
- The aftermarket case is slightly different than the original switch. It is threaded further down and uses a 'stop' ring thread on to adjust how far it sticks through the dash. I believe this same switch housing is used for multiple different applications.

67-72 Pickup Switch
ACC - LOCK/OFF - IGN - START
- Case mount to the dash the same as the original 60-66 switch and accepts the 60-66 bezel. This switch case is actually identical to the original 60-66 where it mounts to the dash.
- Lock cylinder is different than the 60-66 where it engages the switch, but has a smooth face so looks externally like a 60-66. Must buy a 67-72 lock cylinder.
- Wiring connector is different. Must buy the 67-72 pigtail, de-pin your stock connector and re-pin the new one with your wires.
- If you like the stock flush look then I personally think that this is the best route to go.

61-63 Impala Switch
ACC - LOCK - OFF - IGN - START
- Mounts to the dash like a 60-66 pickup switch and accepts the bezel.
- Lock cylinder is the same as the pickup version where it engages the switch, but it has a chromed, protruding top. however you can use your pickup lock cylinder in this switch
- wiring connector is the same as the 60-66 pickup.
- I am planning to use this switch because I like to look of the impala lock cylinder
- The switch comes with a little light bulb housing that shines into a slot in the side of the switch housing and illuminates the inside of the lock cylinder when in the off positions. However the bulb housing hits the back of the gauge housing when you try to install it. I will probably cut up a cigarette lighter housing, and use the more compact bulb housing to try to get this to fit.

Photos of the switches I have at home:
60-66 Pickup Aftermarket --- 61-61 Impala Aftermarket --- 60-66 Pickup Original

[CRGRS 66]

Thanks so much for the effort, and the detail!
Is it possible to install the 61-63 switch without the light? It looks like it is a separate part...

[argonaut]

Yup! Plug and play.
Posted via Mobile Device

[CRGRS 66]

Thanks Jason!

[64shortbox]

Thanks Jason, A plug & play fix with an ACC position great information Thank You!!!