No start? Please, help

[cfan10]

Ok, so after replacing fuel pump, hard fuel line from carb to fuel filter. And I replaced all fuel hoses, still no start.
I have dual tanks if that helps, by the driver side is bypassed by way of cut hose with a bolt inside.
Is it possible that its on the wrong (driver) tank instead of passenger tank.
The truck does sound like it wants to start, but won't. Truck hasn't ran since September 2011. It was taken apart for engine to be painted and much needed new parts.
What am I doing/not doing wrong, what am I missing here? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

84 305 edelbrock 4 barrel 1406
Dual exhaust
Dual tanks

New parts:

Fan cluth
Waterpump
P/s pump
Tune up
Stat
Some other stuff I can't remember.
Posted via Mobile Device

[cjlinkster]

Got gas....



Check to make sure that gas is reaching the carb. If it is not, then one of the lines to either the fuel pump or the bypassed line may be wrong.

Try to pull a little gas down the air vent tube on the carb; doing that should be enough to let it crank over for a few seconds to make sure that it is not something electrically causing the issue.

[cfan10]

Yep, lol I've got gas...its a full tank, thanks will try in the morn.
Posted via Mobile Device

[86c20]

is it kicking back on the starter? if there is gas at the carb then it sounds like the distribotur is 180 out

[Hevy]

I'd check fuel pressure first.

[cfan10]

Originally Posted by 86c20

is it kicking back on the starter? if there is gas at the carb then it sounds like the distribotur is 180 out

Going to bottle test the fuel line to carb, but looking at the distrib cap it does sit uneven, it wasn't before the cap was removed. (distrib was never removed, just the cap) Could this be the problem, and can turning the damper/pulley clockwise then turning it back to original location, cause a timing issue? Thanks.
Posted via Mobile Device

[PugDad]

Originally Posted by cfan10

Going to bottle test the fuel line to carb, but looking at the distrib cap it does sit uneven, it wasn't before the cap was removed. (distrib was never removed, just the cap) Could this be the problem, and can turning the damper/pulley clockwise then turning it back to original location, cause a timing issue? Thanks.
Posted via Mobile Device

I don't know how the dizzy cap could get on crooked, but I guess anything is possible, and yes, it could contribute to starting problems.

The dizzy wasn't removed to paint the engine? None of the wires were removed?

I would start with the basics. Set static timing, make sure the wires are connected to the right cylinders in the correct firing order.

Timing, Spark, Fuel...should run.

Good luck.

[cfan10]

^The cap was removed and wires were marked. The cap sits slightly crooked to the driver side. And I'm a noob and know nothiing about timing, how much would a shade tree mechanic charge? I don't have a timing light. Thanks.
Posted via Mobile Device

[PugDad]

No need for a timing light...this is done with engine off. That's why it's called static--the engine is not running. It's a good way to make sure the various parts of the engine are "in time" with each other, or at least close.

Here is the basics--you are going to check for three things:
Position of #1 piston
Position of the distributor rotor
Position of the timing mark on the dampener

First, follow safety precautions. This involves being close to rotating machinery (fan blade). No loose clothes, ties, ponytails, etc.

Next, you should take off that distributor cap, and put it back on. Get comfortable with how it comes off and on.

From your tech manual, identify which wire coming from the distributor is supposed to be number one. Don't rely on previous marks. Look it up.

Locate #1 cylinder.
Take out the spark plug.
Have a friend bump the engine while you use your finger to cover the hole that you took the spark plug out of. (watch out for the fan blade)
When ever it comes up on the compression stroke, it will push your finger away from the hole. Do it a few times, you will get the hang of it.
The goal is to have the #1 piston at TDC (top dead center).
After you have #1 piston at TDC, then take off the distributor cap, and see if the brass tip of the rotor is pointing to #1 spark plug wire.
Then, look down at the timing mark on the dampener. Should be pointing up.

You can also take off the valve cover, and look at the valve springs for #1 cylinder. Both valves should be closed when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke.

You might have to turn the pulley a little bit one way or the other to get the piston exactly to the top. I've never been lucky enough to stop bumping the engine at exactly the right time.

Anyway, that's the "readers digest" version of how to static time it.

After you confirm that these three things are in the correct "basic" position, then double check the wires going from the distributor to the spark plugs, paying attention to distributor rotation. Put the plug back in, and see if it will start.

This may sound like a lot of work, but it's not.

[86c20]

2x on all of what pugdad said. but i would ckeak to make sure that the cap is on right if the dis was not turned then that cap is not on right. it will float and then fall into place.

[Weasel Diesel]

To Add ; I know it sounds stupid, but make sure the batt wire on the cap is plugged in correctly and that the module lead to cap is plugged in correctly. Sometimes the small things bite ya.

[cfan10]

Bottle tested fuel line from fuel pump to carb, its def getting gas now. Hard fuel line is leaking pretty nasty, where it connects to fuel pump. Pump is back off to put tape around the leak from the bolt, forgot to do that.

Pulled dcap and wires were crossed up, will try to start in the morn after putting dcap back on. Also, found the 5, 7 plugs weren't even in the block tight. Not my doing mechanic in his own mind, did this.
Saying a prayer and keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks for all the help guys, I don't know where I'd be if it weren't for you all.
Posted via Mobile Device