Can I re-build the front end?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Hugger · 05-15-2003, 03:51 PM

I know...If I have to ask then the answer is probably no...
The only part that I'm questioning is the Tourqeing of the bushings, and the spec's on How tight, when to tighten etc...
I've replaced Tie-Rod ends, shocks, brakes, etc., just never ball joints and A-Arm busings.
The shop I have worked with some want $650 labor only!!
I don't think I would have any problems, but it's one of those things once you start you can't backout.

I already have the a$$ end tore down ready to install 4" drop springs, bushings, shock re-locators, adj panahard...
The front will get 2" lowered springs (I really can't afford to do the drop spindles right now)

Any advice would be appreciated.

72 chevy LWB 1/2 ton Coils

Erik

**COBALT** · 05-15-2003, 04:09 PM

Check out what I posted in the "Suspension" board. Also, get a Haynes manual for our trucks. They have all the torque specs right in the book.

I also found it useful to have a 3/4" drive breaker, adapters, and a 250 ft/lb torque wrench (both clicker and beam). I was able to torque down everything with this stuff just fine.

Hugger · 05-15-2003, 04:52 PM

Cobalt -
I read some of your posts/replies, in the suspension board...
I feel your pain on the rear-end dis-assembly!! I ended up cutting both sides of both U-Bolts with a grinder / cut-off wheel. I Should've bought one of those years ago!!!
It's all tore done, and in the process of being cleaned. I'm gonna use POR-15 on the frame and trailing arms, etc.
I read everything I can find on replacing the front end bushings, and somewhere it said to not tighten the busings until the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension?
I'm sure I will figure it all out, I've never backed down from any repair/upgrade as of yet.
What's the hardest part to get apart on the front-end?
Erik

cdowns · 05-15-2003, 04:54 PM

i really think a better manual to buy is the g.m.72chevy truck chassis service manual contains very detailed instructions spsefic to these trucks. you do need a good torque wrench that can read up to 300ft'lbs the torque for new lower control arm bushings is 280ft/lb and the uppers are 160ft/lbs . if you have good tools with liftime warrenty a piece of pie to go over your ratchet handle will come in handy. it's nothing to be afraid of and if you have a good manual and a few good tools take your time and you'll have it done in no time

**COBALT** · 05-16-2003, 03:20 AM

Well, first since the center bar is what really moves I don't think torquing the metal bushings while the truck is weighed down is any big deal, but of course it's probably so you don't tip the truck over. I didn't have any stabalization problem, so I did it with the truck in the air.

Second, 280 ft/lbs for control arm bushings is WAY too much if you're using a used A-arm (for a stock replacement maybe). The only thing torqued that high is the pitman arm nut and the U-bolts in the rear. That sounds wrong to me.

Third, getting the front-end apart was easy as pie until I had to get the upper ball joints loose. They simply wouldn't budge - even with the coil and the lower ball joints loose. Those bastards simply wouldn't pop loose. I had to use the blue torch (propane), a pickle fork and a 5lb hammer.

Hugger · 05-19-2003, 12:21 PM

The Spec's in the 72 Service Manual are:
"Upper Control Arm - 280 ft. lbs New / 130 ft. lbs Replace"
I assume "Replace" means using the one you took off.
It's not real clear.
Was it the spindle to ball joint, that was stuck, or the ball joint to the A-arm?
Erik

**COBALT** · 05-19-2003, 01:10 PM

I'm thinking about how both components are made. I remember torquing my upper/lower control arm bushings to at most 150 ft/lbs. There comes a point where the bushing bottoms out, and then all you're doing is tearing up the control arms. I don't see how this will help anything by going all the way to 280 ft/lbs. Between the two components the control arm is of less quality construction. It'll strip out before the bushing will, so I assume that the 130 ft/lb rating is for used control arms. Remember that there's two sets of numbers: 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton.

As for the upper ball joint it was getting it out of the spindle. The spindle wouldn't let it go, but since you have a '72 you have disk brakes. It's probably easier. I had drums.

Getting the upper ball joint out of the control arm is easy as pie. Just use an angle grinder to zip off the rivet heads, and use a punch to knock them out.

Good luck.

05-15-2003, 03:51 PM	#1
Hugger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Wichita, KS Posts: 137	Can I re-build the front end?? I know...If I have to ask then the answer is probably no... The only part that I'm questioning is the Tourqeing of the bushings, and the spec's on How tight, when to tighten etc... I've replaced Tie-Rod ends, shocks, brakes, etc., just never ball joints and A-Arm busings. The shop I have worked with some want $650 labor only!! I don't think I would have any problems, but it's one of those things once you start you can't backout. I already have the a$$ end tore down ready to install 4" drop springs, bushings, shock re-locators, adj panahard... The front will get 2" lowered springs (I really can't afford to do the drop spindles right now) Any advice would be appreciated. 72 chevy LWB 1/2 ton Coils Erik __________________ 72 LWB - Hugger Orange 350/350 3.73 Next; 335hp GM Crate

05-15-2003, 04:09 PM	#2
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Check out what I posted in the "Suspension" board. Also, get a Haynes manual for our trucks. They have all the torque specs right in the book. I also found it useful to have a 3/4" drive breaker, adapters, and a 250 ft/lb torque wrench (both clicker and beam). I was able to torque down everything with this stuff just fine. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

05-15-2003, 04:52 PM	#3
Hugger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Wichita, KS Posts: 137	Cobalt - I read some of your posts/replies, in the suspension board... I feel your pain on the rear-end dis-assembly!! I ended up cutting both sides of both U-Bolts with a grinder / cut-off wheel. I Should've bought one of those years ago!!! It's all tore done, and in the process of being cleaned. I'm gonna use POR-15 on the frame and trailing arms, etc. I read everything I can find on replacing the front end bushings, and somewhere it said to not tighten the busings until the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension? I'm sure I will figure it all out, I've never backed down from any repair/upgrade as of yet. What's the hardest part to get apart on the front-end? Erik __________________ 72 LWB - Hugger Orange 350/350 3.73 Next; 335hp GM Crate

05-15-2003, 04:54 PM	#4
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	i really think a better manual to buy is the g.m.72chevy truck chassis service manual contains very detailed instructions spsefic to these trucks. you do need a good torque wrench that can read up to 300ft'lbs the torque for new lower control arm bushings is 280ft/lb and the uppers are 160ft/lbs . if you have good tools with liftime warrenty a piece of pie to go over your ratchet handle will come in handy. it's nothing to be afraid of and if you have a good manual and a few good tools take your time and you'll have it done in no time __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

05-16-2003, 03:20 AM	#5
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Well, first since the center bar is what really moves I don't think torquing the metal bushings while the truck is weighed down is any big deal, but of course it's probably so you don't tip the truck over. I didn't have any stabalization problem, so I did it with the truck in the air. Second, 280 ft/lbs for control arm bushings is WAY too much if you're using a used A-arm (for a stock replacement maybe). The only thing torqued that high is the pitman arm nut and the U-bolts in the rear. That sounds wrong to me. Third, getting the front-end apart was easy as pie until I had to get the upper ball joints loose. They simply wouldn't budge - even with the coil and the lower ball joints loose. Those bastards simply wouldn't pop loose. I had to use the blue torch (propane), a pickle fork and a 5lb hammer. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. Last edited by COBALT; 05-16-2003 at 03:22 AM.

05-19-2003, 12:21 PM	#6
Hugger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Wichita, KS Posts: 137	The Spec's in the 72 Service Manual are: "Upper Control Arm - 280 ft. lbs New / 130 ft. lbs Replace" I assume "Replace" means using the one you took off. It's not real clear. Was it the spindle to ball joint, that was stuck, or the ball joint to the A-arm? Erik __________________ 72 LWB - Hugger Orange 350/350 3.73 Next; 335hp GM Crate

05-19-2003, 01:10 PM	#7
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	I'm thinking about how both components are made. I remember torquing my upper/lower control arm bushings to at most 150 ft/lbs. There comes a point where the bushing bottoms out, and then all you're doing is tearing up the control arms. I don't see how this will help anything by going all the way to 280 ft/lbs. Between the two components the control arm is of less quality construction. It'll strip out before the bushing will, so I assume that the 130 ft/lb rating is for used control arms. Remember that there's two sets of numbers: 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton. As for the upper ball joint it was getting it out of the spindle. The spindle wouldn't let it go, but since you have a '72 you have disk brakes. It's probably easier. I had drums. Getting the upper ball joint out of the control arm is easy as pie. Just use an angle grinder to zip off the rivet heads, and use a punch to knock them out. Good luck. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.



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